rallyruss

if im not mistaken there are 2 wires that will go to the sensor on top of the compressor and another single wire (blue?) that applies power from the relay to the coil and is case grounded. looking at diagram from an 85 right now 87 should be similar. I can check one of my cars in the morning if need be.

yeah I mentioned that when you first asked about the hesitation stumble problem. you can clean em. its rare to have the wire get dirty like the ford maf because these have a burn off cycle. it wont hurt to try it. just shoot it with some cleaner and retry it.

the blower relay provides power to the A/C relay IE no power to blower no power to A/C.definately can be the same problem. troubleshooting use the descriptions and wire collors to help you. if blue and red has power jump it to green and white. this will bypass the relay for testing purposes. if this works move on to the control side of the relay. verify that you have power on red and yellow. if yes ground red and white(with relay hooked up) does relay turn on? there is more but even just checking voltages at the relay can tell you alot. let me know what you find . PM if you need more help.

no can do. the intercooler hoses and piping are so short that there would be no room for the motor to flex under torque. tried that already.

see my last post about the refrigerant charge. yes you are correct. as for the relay location look by the right side strut tower sorry no pic. find the one with wire collors that match. there are more than one relay in this system but I am leading you to this one because it is common to both the a/c and blower system.

cute little fella. the dog too. not bad for 75$ 24 mpg sounds reasonable to me. thats about what my subes get with mixed city, mountian and freeway. yeah I am waiting for skip to jump back in at any moment. kinda miss that guy.

good ideas with the pressure switch but a low charge will NOT effect the blower motor as well.

nice. you really feel the differance huh? the subspeed wont work for me because of my intercooler. I may have to fab up something similar.

first off there are two types of systems hitachi and matsuhuita. I believe the hitachi is the larger compressor. no mater which one you have it sounds like you are losing voltage somewhere as you say that the compresor clutch will not engauge and the blower is inop. so its a common power source. start at the fusible links on the fender. I belive its the black one. then it goes thru the ignition switch to fuses # 1,2,12,15 all a/c and blower related stuff. I will guess you will find a problem by this point if not you have multiple problems all at once (dont really think so). check this and get back to us. oh yeah when checking fuses and fuse links a meter or test light is best dont just look at it and say "its not poped it must be good" and do your testing with the key ON. oh and for that blower relay blue and red is the main power in to the switching side red and yellow is the power to the relay coil red and white is ground side of coil (control side) green and white is power out to the blower motor AND the A/C relay. so if the blower relay no go then no A/C relay either.

it sucks having any plus size tire with a PB trans(no low range). and I agree that when you really need 4wd and you push the little button you are relying on a lot of electical and vacume devices to do a verry valuable task for you. I have a PB in the wagon and I wish it were a DR like the RX has.

puffing out the carb would tell me that its too far advanced. if you have been dumping lots of fuel down it by whatever means it may be flooded as well. pull your plugs and clean them off good. I vote for a misaligned disty.

I keep my covers on. only takes a short while to remove and if they are sealed well they do keep debris out. I have had a car in the past with no cover and I think it did cause the belt to wear a bit faster.

I used a vw 1.8t intercooler here is an old pic. now it has stainless piping. this does require a cut out in the hood.

well you were lucky. some times they can be a pain in the rear. espically if the splines got rusty. still possible with out the tool but I am sure the tool would simplify it a good bit. wish I had one.

you can look in here for that tool http://www.otctools.com/frames-catalog.php3 I just clean and lube it real well then tap it in.

crack head thats funny I would be rather suspicious of a quote that low. thats gonna be one ghetto repair job. I am in the middle of a saturn gasket job and I told the owner 900 or higher if I find more problems. I dont mess around. cheap labor = cheap quality. I dont know what labor rates are in your area but here expect to pay close to 100.00 per hour for a high end shop. I only charge 40.00 on the side.

blue roo snowmobile -for the wagon rex -for the RX

I agre with caboobarooo with just one adition. apply lots of penitrating oil first. and when you reassemble use antiseize to make it easy the next time. on reinstall I have used a dead blow hammer to gently hit the edge of the cv to help push it through. if you drive it out with a dead blow too you will not damage the threads(still put the nut on to save it when you get pissed and slam it with a sledge)

I paid 35$ for 2 at pick and pull. dont buy the whole strut. just get the spring. I know its not the best but I unbolt the bottom of the strut and then the retainer nut while hiding on the oposite side of the car. it gets loose with out causing too much problem. dont do this unless you fully understand where things can go.

nice:slobber: I like the attachment to the stock rails. must make it real easy to hook up. you just got a few extra roof rack slider nuts? I need to get one goin soon but I want attachmets for snow board and mtn. bikes.

they bolt up no problem. just the springs are replaced. you use the stock type strut and mounts. I do not have adjustable preches but it would work with that type as well.

there should be some interest in those. yeah there are some other options poping up but what WJM is talking about sounds rather sweet. that price range is totaly reasonable. ok I am curious because I tried to find info on stuff like this when I first wanted some stiffer spring in the rear and nobody knew anything. that why I went with the honda springs. how did you find these? or do they need to be made by a sping mfgr?

nice :cool: the play is normal on most that I haver seen. to do those bearings you need to pull apart the tranny if I am not mistaken. I made a feeble attempt at that job once. realized what was involved and I put it back together.

I have a little somthing in mind for that as well:brow: basically it would be similar to a BYB lift in the front but only 1 1/2 or 2". I have be collecting some various types of square tubing. I plan to make an adaptor to fit on top of the strut. this will not only drop the strut but will add a little more neg. camber and caster. then of course the spacers to drop the cross member and associated trany/driveshaft mounts. have not decided on how to best do the steering linkage. (thy sell some bad arse little steering joints for hot rods) I considered spacing the motor to keep it the same as the chassis but I dont think the CV joints would like that much.

the timing is different but also the lift and overlap is less. I think you would have rather crappy performance with turbo cams in a non turbo motor.