rallyruss

well I got my whole system installed today. everything was looking great. then after a while my volvo oil cooler started leaking. I also had assumed that the fittings were 1/2" pipe (they are 3/8) and then when I went to hook up my custom hoses (4250 psi ) I realized my error. well rather than add adaptors that would take up space I decided to rethread to 1/2". so that part is all good now and the cooler seems to work well as it got real hot just after a 15 min. drive. any one have a volvo 240turbo oil cooler? thats all I need now and it will be sweet. thanks again WJM. if I get some time I will post a pic or 2.

did the problem start after your emissions equipment removal? amazingly some of those parts are meant to be on your motor. as for the vac. line question. that may or may not be ok. if you ran a venturi vacume source to a manifold vac. source that would definatly give you the problem you have. vac caps would have been a better choice. I know I am not going with the popular belife that removing emissions equipment is "good". nevermind the fact that winters are getting shorter and shorter each year. the president says that his own advisors are all wrong about that silly global warming issue so its ok. another thread along the same lines as yours. might want to check egr too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13961 please ignore my little rant if it offends anyone I know politics are a no no. but it is related to the topic.

wow not your average parts swaper.but a scope man. I probably dont need to tell you but the 360 signal is for timing control and the 4 is the actual triger. if you have crappy noise or whatever you see on that signal thats not cool. make sure plug wires and disty wires are not rubbing. did you check the power and groung to the disty?

spideyz- good to find more bay area subers. sorry but there is no relay. bust out the diagrams. sorry Iluvdrt but your question is a bit long. that may be the problem with responce. if the pump did not do well with direct battery power then I think you may have at least part of the problem found. you should get a decent flow.

good point about the diff lock strength. may not be worth risking it. DR RX I understand what your saying. I should have been more specific. I mean the flange behind the center support bearing. just disconnect the rear section from the front and let the drive shaft spin in the bearing like usual ok im swingin to the awd dyno side a bit. I still think that 2wd would be possible.

you can find a version of that stuff at some parts stores. I personally prefer permatex aviation sealant.

awd vs 2wd dyno. if you unbolt the drive shaft and ran 2wd there would be little to no change in how you tune it. all you need to do is be able to load the motor. it does not care how many tires are spinning. if the guys with the simpler 2wd dyno are better and cheaper I would go to them.

you may need to if you cannot bleed all the air out at the wheels. try gravity bleeding first(add fluid to the MC and let it flow out the bleeder) if that does not do it go to vac. or pump methods. I would save bleeding the MC for last if necessary. it can be messy if you dont have the little adaptors that thread into the ports.

I would assume the vented rotors are matched to a wider caliper. I know thats how the v dubs are set up and I tink sube is the same. if this is the case yeah you need to get some vented rotors. I think 85 had vented. not to sure about the older ones. brake fluid loss:eek: make sure its not leaking any. it may have just taken alot to fill the calipers?

I cannot say that I have tried removing swaybars on my RX then rallyXing. but it has been recomended to me. the general idea is that a good set of springs will give give you all the stiffness you need yet allow free indepenant travle. at the last RallyX I watched a lot of the really fast cars. they had a lot of body roll happening but the tires were getting grip because they stay on the ground. of course there is a real ballance with the rest of your suspension components but am considering the removal of one or more sway bars. probably the front one.

yeah I am confused about the EGR too. EGR should reduce cyl. temp and therefore pinging too. try 5deg. my 85 gl would not take any more than 5 deg of advance. seafoam carbon cleaner may be helpfull too.

XSNRG mostly good stuff there but I disagree about the sway bar issue. It is considered a bandaid for poor springs and struts to go bigger with the sway bar. the sway bars actualy keep the tire off the ground thru the rough spots by making the suspension function more like a straight axle. I was lifting tires a bit when I ran and it was sugested by the pro rally guys that I may want to remove my swaybars. not tring to pee on your popsicle but its just what I learned at rally school, the rally pits, and rallyX. hence my board name RallyRuss;) I have to say your mods would be great for auto X

I know Holister hills verry well. used to wheel my toyota there all the time. dont know how good a sube place it is. I try not to Wheel my sube. thats what the truck does best. I took Donald AKA stormtrooper there once and he had fun beatin on his loyal. what he lacked in vehicle ability he made up in driver ability and persistance. he was a real crowd pleaser. yeah those of you with decent gearing would like it.

I just saw your previous post. I would not bother torquing that one if you dont have a torque wrench handy.If you really want to go for it. you would problaby have to go a little tighter to line up the holes anyway. like the german mechanics would say make it gutentite.

make sure the tranny mounts are cool. no cracks ect. also the little strut on top of the trans to the body?

the sealed bearings are not meant to be packed. 1 time deal. that does not mean I have not tried to. I ended up injecting some redline synthetic grease into them. because they are a press fit(usually) guess it did not help because the right one is just starting to go.

just a guess here but the push button 4wd uses vac solinoids just like that to actuate the diaphram to engauge 4wd. I assume you have a lever actuated 4wd. if this is correct you will not need those. yup I just went out and looked at the car and I have those mounted on the drivers strut tower. there was also someone elses cat sleeping in there. good thing I opened the hood to look first. your question may have saved a cats life.

unless you have a internal leak or stuck closed fuel pressure regulator it will run with or without the vac. hose connected. it makes the presure rise a bit. the MAF sensor is what tells the car how much air is coming in. If air is getting in somewhere else it will be confused and not regulate the mixture correctly. important things I would look at. the temp sensor on the manifold. (2 wire) the TPS on the throttle body. make sure the fuel pump is running like sugested. you can check this at the serial monitor connector(13 pin connector) blue with brown wire. make sure all connectors by the battery are hooked up ok to eng. harness. good luck

if the cams are agerssive you will be lacking vacume. that is why you have to keep the idle up. probably to be expected.

blend door not opening. check the control at the dash first then under the dash you go.

thats how my old 85 gl was set up. I belive 86 is the same. they just used a transistor in the pcm. I recomend checking a diagram but I 90% sure yous is the same and yeah you use the relay to kill the fuel pump and power it up.

scooby go out to your car and touch both batt posts at the same time. did you get shocked? hmm work on that fuel pump kill switch idea that would be a good one. and if you use a relay you would actualy improve the system.

I would double check the drivers side T belt. pop the cap and see if the rotor spins.

hmm that good you have more in mind than just that. 12V ? knock you out? 12v wont do squat. you need high voltage and lots of it. then you need to isolate the handle from the rest of the car. well Ill stop now Im sure you have a plan. can someone do a write up on wiring in relays to put in the USMB. It seems this is a mystry area. I know we have covered it a few times but it keeps coming up.

if lifters are noisy then they are probably not opening the valves enough. bet it cant breath. have you resealed the pump yet? that does the trick a lot of the time. it may have pressure but it gets air sucked in at the pump. good to see another local here I am in san jo so if you need help with parts or whatever look me up.