rallyruss

dam is that one of those externaly lubricated motors? seriously though I see what you have going there. thats along the lines of my plan #1. I think my cooler is more restrictive than that one. a limited flow ability thru the cooler should not affect the vehicles Oil pressure or flow right? oiling systems make me nervous. just want to do it up right.

I need to find a mounting location for my oil cooler. has any one done this yet? where did it fit? first off many thanks to WJM for promptly sending out the oil cooler adapter. I have some ideas. #1 I have a tranny cooler off a dodge diplomat. measures aprox 12" by 6" and 2" thick. it will fit in front of the a/c condensor. plumbing will be tricky but as long as it stays small (hose ID) It will work. dont know if running a tranny cooler is a good idea though. #2 plumb it into the radiator where the tranny cooler lines are supposed to go. once again a tranny cooler? and lack of actual cooling. #3 A volvo OIL cooler. rather small but its meant for oil and can be mounted closer to the source. I have acess to hyd. hose equipment so building my own lines will not be a problem. hydraulic hoses are super durable and can be removed easy. any ideas? experience? yes I tried a search first.

yes it was a hard thing for me to do. I never told the car where they came from;) if it found out I would be in big trouble. probably would throw a fit and die on a nice narrow road, behind a blind corner. look at it this way. they use pig valves in human hearts right. well this is the car version of that.

then all I have to say is:clap: :drunk:

duals would work too. but I think I spent 35$$ plus the new KYBs and it works great. dual shocks would add a bit of weight and well more parts to deal with. you are building a buggy though and its probably appropriate there.

:wave:

I would definately use a spring compressor. they are a bit dangerous when they get loose. did that on a big fat BMW525 spring. be carefull.

ok so all this debate made me think of a compromise mod. what if instead of hacking the bottom out you made the opening to the fender (cool air) bigger with the silencer removed. this should give me at least 20hp for doing it first. mabey another 5hp if it looks good too. ok Im off to the garage. :cool:

I have been wondering the same thing. I know subspeed was working on a HD clutch a while back. http://www.subspeed.com/Clutch.htm

Im not sure if any one else has actually done it yet. well here is the original honda spring swap on my gl10. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8768&highlight=honda+springs yeah no more saging. carrys a load much better too. not to mention a little lift.

isall good Cabez Im not bent. I just have to stand up for my kind. Im shure you would do the same. It takes a lot more than that to piss me off. we can still be friends:D baccaruda Its not that hard to pull the silencer. and mabey yours was cloged or sumting like that. my brother inlaw just choped his air box on his WRX:rolleyes: yeah more noise woo hoo.

http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9273&highlight=BOV+bypass+valve its been discussed before. my opinion is bypass is better for the car and driveability. BOV is better for making funny noises.

thats what im sayin subaru styles. theres a reason they pull fresh COOL air in from outside. hey I am licensed as one of those "inspector dorks" I dont use it for a living but you have to know you S*** to get that license. took me a couple of years. show a little respect. I know other states may have a bit more shade tree inspectors but not here. as for the legality. on a FI car with no heat riser you can chop away leagaly. on a heat riser system like I assume Brian had. no you cannot.

hmm I can down shift into first ok. yeah its not a good way to slow a car down but some times you need to in say a off road situation. yeah it sounds like a synchro problem ( blocking ring) I have had reaal good luck using red line MTL in tranys with sticky synchros. some others may back me up here or mabey not. do some searches its been done indepth before.

when I first was driving my friends had a justy that got beat by us rather bad. it was fun. Im not sure where I stand with the justy issue. when I was rallyXing the first time there was a moded little justy there running with us. my only goal of the day was to beat the justy (this was using the RX). I guess mainly beause he was so sure he was going to spank everyone else in open 4wd:lol: the time keepers caught on to this and let me know how far ahead of the justy I was after each run. needless to say he was at the tail of the line up by the end of the day. I think he took the justy too serious. he should have justy gone out for a good time:D

if there is presure in our style over flow bottles its because of a bad rad cap, a blown head gasket, or a genuine overheating condition. bars leak is not that bad a stuff. I have used it alot with good results. has any one mentioned the T stat? its cheap,easy to chang and is supposed to control the temp. a sticky T stat could do what you describe. this is espically true if the car has sat alot and not had frequent coolant changes.

you probably want to stick to one thread if you want some results here. you now have 3 seprate threads on the same topic all started by you. Its hard for us to help if you keep bouncing around. as for the groud question. there are many grounds. get a flashlight and start looking. there is a big ground near the stater another smaller one near the battery to the eng. if you understand voltage drop testing (do a search or I can explain it again) that would be the best test method.

umm he meant the temp outside 20deg. but good now he knows where to set timing. somthing I think trogdor was tring to get at is the temp sensor. bad temp sensor or shorted circit will tell the car its hot when its not. and therefore lean it out. have you tried to start it using carb spray or starting fluid? that would really help decide if you have a fue or a spark problem. as for you you bunged up plug hole. ouch. they sell special taps at parts stores just for that. try that first to clean up the threads. if that does not work yeah you may need a insert . oh asfor keeping material out of the motor while doing the repair but grease on the tap (it holds the metal shavings) . then try vacuming after.

why would it be difficult to put the pump in the same location as the stiock one? oh I see you are worried about fuel line differeces. the hard line will have no problem at all. if you want to be safe just change the flex hoses at the ends to efi rated line. I would still recomend putting the pump in the stock location. efi pumps espically push better than pull. thats why if you mount it up front you have to keep your stock pump. too many parts that can fail that way for my taste. yeah I know VWs and other cars did that in the PAST but not any more they got over that sillyness. It was inefficient and expensive to fix. compared to a single pump set up. I had a simillar issue when converting my pick up to EFI I put it as close to the tank as possible and ran high pressure hose to the stock hard line. mounting was a PITA there. yours should go smoothly.

I use a 1/4 drive universal on a long extension. it works really well. I would lift the motor too its only 2 nuts to remove.

you only need to probe the one wire. If I am not mistaken you will see 5v aprx. with the switch closed nothing (0v) with the switch open. what wiring daig. are you using? you know about this right. http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 I dont check ohms because that would only do a test of the switch itself. not a verry accurate in my opinion either. cheching voltage tests the complete circit as well as the sensor.

sounds like two seperate problems to me. the starter solinoid is the most likely cause of the click and no start. assuming battery connections are all good. dont forget the grounds. as for the squirt to start deal. hmm bad temp sensor? or possible injector problem. hard to tell with ot testing stuff. go here http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 and look in the second ea82 section pg# 64

the one I put on the rabbit was meant for an air cooled(boxer) motor. the distys were verry similar. you could do the same if you modified the parts a bit. check out SDSefi they can get you a complete fuel and spark control system with DIS. http://sdsefi.com/

so what was it? have you test diven it for a while?

sorry my mistake what I described is on my car. ok I looked it up for yours. its the blue with a green stripe. coming off the 4 wire connector. when i say back probe I mean using a paper clip or a T pin get contact with that wire at the back side of the connector. I know its a pain but its considered shady to stab wires. there is also a way to check it at one of the diagnostic connectors(one of the big ones). the collor is the same but its hard to describe where it is without pics.