rallyruss

idle switch is built into the throttle position sensor. threre are two connectors on it a roud one and a flat one. the flat one is the one you want. back probe both wires and if volt age is the same it should be closed. open the throttle to see the change. BTW Im lazy and never seem to check that part before doing timing but if I did thats what I would do.

If I rember correctly they should be the same. throw some accord front springs under the rear of the wagon. it will sit higher and ride stiffer I love it on mine espically when its all loaded with people and gear.

WJM your box PM box is full. yeah I am interested if you have some more. I could not see the pics though.

do a search skip did a little write up a while back. gl is a standard model. gl10 is a flossy pimp ride with more options. or somthing of that nature.

oh yes it CAN be done. I helped put a dis system on a rabbit once. but it did not have any provisions for advancing timing and it still used the distributor as a cam/crank sensor. we pulled it off and hooked up a good stock system. if you find a system make sure about timing control that was the big killer we had run into. it also was a carbed car so fuel control was not a issue. you need to consider that too. by all means go for it. have fun.

GD whats the deal? are you makin these? or do you have a hook up at a machine shop. I am interested got pics?

I will back you up goatboy. what they call the crank angle sensor on the diagrams and info I have off alldata (who just scans the factory diagrams I believe) calles the pick up or cam sensor in the disty the crank angle sensor. and thats what it is kinda in a back arse way. I know DocRX its a stupid technicality. I love OBDII cars all the names are standardized ( mostly). as for your codes skip is on track. I would be looking for an intermitant failure. when you friend asked you to check it out was the check engine light the onle reason? were there other concerns? did someone else work on it before you?

lots of fab work. DIS is great but it requires a cam and a crank sensor usually. not shure what the signal differance is but that would be a issue. you would need the ej22 ECM and a custom cam sensor mabey a crank sensor too. this also puts you in a predicament with fuel control. an aftermarket ecm would be your best bet. to sum it up its not feasable with out lots of enginering, machining, cashola$$$. not worth the benifits.

supradan you have some good points but a manuel bost controler will not reduce lag at low rpms. like you stated yourself making it flow better is the best bet for less lag.

I got my best parts man on the job. I will tell you if he finds any. guess that ruels out a group buy huh? are there any other brand adaptors that will work? I might just have to fab some up.

it is replacable. expensive too.

so wait you have all those codes and the car runs fine? somtingwong here. the crank angle sensor is in the disty. the air control valve is by the TBI unit. check your referance voltages(5v) and grounds.

three words voltage drop test with every thing hooked up the circit will drop all the voltage somewhere. preferably at the motor. a simple example of a voltage drop test is a motor and a switch. the motor will not run. when you place your meter leads across the switch contacts in the on position you see 5V then do the same at the motor and you see 7v across the motor. 5v across the switch indicates that it has high resistance and is using up a good portion of the avl. voltage. this could apply to a connection, moduel, whatever. the sum of all voltage drops will equal supply voltage. rule of thumb connections and switches should not drop more than .2v and .5v respectivly. thats the max. any more is a problem. test voltages across components and find out who is holding things up. the motor should be the only one allowed to drop a big chunk(12v) of voltage. I suck at explaining stuff and have poor writing skills so if you dont get what I am saying check this http://www.cnnw.net/~fourty/voltdroptest.htm

most parts stores should be able to get that for you. if not I have a spare one. PM if you want it.

torxxx and mike w- I assume that removing the canister is purely for visual apeal? there is absolutly no perfomance gain there for sure. lets see here the canister holds excess fuel vapor then dumps it into the intake to be reburnt correct? so with it off you just vent that gas that you paid for to the atmosphere instead of burning it all. hmm mabey thaty clip is difficult to snap open and closed when you need to move the caister. dont worry about the effects of your emissions component removal. your kids will be able to "fix" the effects of our generation. sorry to go off here. I try to keep quiet about this kinda stuff but I have seen the results of our ignorance first hand. as for your pcv/ crank case breather mods scooby tim and Q tried to tell you that you cannot tap the pcv into the crankcase vent system. the crank case builds pressure from blowby gasses and needs to either vent them or reburn them. if you run the pvc straight to the crank case vent then where does the excess pressure go? out the oil cap if it fits loose or worse out the oil seals. after looking at your pix closely I see you have not evin touched the pcv valve. those are the crankcase breathers. there are no ill effects (to your motor) from how you have it set up.

si = squirls inside:D any thing you do to make it breath better will reduce the mythical LAG. lag is just what your car would feel like with out a turbo. at low RPM/flow it cannot spool up no matter what you do to the wastegate signal. the wastegate is already closed then anyway.

you can check it if you have a good DVOM. there is also the closed throttle switch built into the tps.(the flat connector) TPS has the round connector. back probe on the signal wire (green I think it was) and with the key on verry slowly open thew throttle and look for a smooth voltage transition. don't bother with the ohms BS. checking voltage will tell you more.

nice skip you must be reading my mind. I had a little plan set up just like you laid it out. well keep us posted I will be doing the same if the RX does not sell soon. are you using the stock WRX bypass valve? so you are going to use a stock up pipe? I would be willing to work on a nice mandrel bent X over/up pipe. thats what I have in mind for mine.

I will look later I may have one in my misc stuff. and yeah you can just ground the signal wire and it should eliminate the knock sensor input to the ecm. temporarily that is. its a safety device.

dam yo that could definately be a big pimpin ride. need to lower it and do some gunuine pleather on the interior. thats ony an hour away from me. explain to wife " I know we have 5 cars but this ones a turbo vanisube. those dont come along every day. can we just keep it for a road trip or two?"

they are very busy. probably because they are good. my motor from them is running well. and the one small problem I had was handled without any trouble. I give them lots of credit they are good people with a good product.

I go with marnix here. the drop in idle that you see tex is because you are dumping air that the ecm thinks it burned. confusing the a/f ratio our cars rely rather heavily on the A/F meter for fuel control. I plumed mine back into the intake boot at the place where the little silencer used to stick out.

hm. I would guess knock sensor. sounds about right. chill miles . no need to start a technicality war here. I belive you are correct abouty the ground. on your 90 there was a ground sheilding in the wireing harness to the knock sensor. it reduces inductive signals that would confuse the ecm. so you are using the 86 harness? you may want to get a early style knock sensor(2 wire).

ecm should be in the trunk with the monkey. get the whole harness and all sensors if you can or chop and splice. most lmprotant airflow temp TPS 02 disty?

ok my opinon here. dont run without the mechanical fan unless you install another electric to replace. do the relay set up that the skip man suggested. I have my cooling system all stock with the addition of a new 2 row radiator and have no problems in the summer heat. it rarely needs to kick on the electric fan. on my toyota truck however I converted to a electric set up. It did give a little bit more HP. so if that is the reason for the removal give it a try. not really. clutch fans are rather poor in water. most serious of roaders will remove a clutch fan before going into some deep water. I have seen the radiators of those that did not. that was the reason for my electric conversion on my truck. to avoid the need to remove the fan before a dunking. one last note. unless you find some kick a$$ electric fan I dont feel that they pull as much air at higher rpm as a cluth fan would. that is all for me