rallyruss

that sounds reasonable. but if you dont have time do do regular maintenance on your car how are you going to do the turbo swap? how bad is your leak? have you tried to clean the motor and isolate the problem? might be good to do before spending a grip on somthing that might fix your leak.

viceversa - not sure what you have by that part # but all subaru and most other O2 sensors work the same ( with a few odd exceptions). if it is a regular one wire O2 that hooks up the same as your old one you should be ok. where are you getting this one from?

im not too sure but are the turbo blocks different ? somthing about the crank case breater system? and the rings are different as well correct? I would definately pull the motor to do the swap. use the turbo motor complete if you can. if you run the higher compression pistons you will probably want to intercool it at the same time. just food for thought.

sweet, I have a gehetto fix involving a old seat belt in place right now. I have been tring to work up a method of doing just that. did you remove the old rubber? thanx good find tell us how they hold up over time.

I have seen the non turbo gl10s with mpfi. almost picked one up when I was last in the market for one. ok scooby- I fully ageree with meeky moose. it is possible. I was in your same situation before and decided to pick up my current wagon(with EA82T ) and a blown motor. while fixing this one up I still drove my old Roo. after completion I sold the other car and now have a rather clean rebuilt turbo car. the tranys are a little differant on turbos too. they use larger axles. not a big deal but more strenght. if you could find a wrecked turbo car and get all the necessary bits off it good go for it. if not well I hope you have a lot of time and $ on hand because thats what it will take. another option is to get a programable fuel system and build your own turbo set up. if emisions allow in your area.

ignitor, ignition moduel same thing. its in the distributor and they are expensive. did you test it like I sugested? make sure this is your problem dont just shot gun parts at it. if you can get a known good distributor to swap in that might work too.

subaru brat- I could tell that was a joke but I think he was looking for a real answer here. GD - mmmm nope that would not be weldable due to the fact that the liner and the block are both blown thru and so close to one another. and no JB cannot take the heat and pressures of the combustion chamber. used gasket? thats like using used TP to wipe your a$$. single use only. I know some times its fun to try some backwoods enginering but let him get the proper information first.

like I tried to tell you before. you may have had a weak or dying ignitor and your new accel coil just pushed it over the edge seems how they most likely draw a bit more amperage. ok easy test. take a test light. and with key on is there power at the + side of the coil? if so good go to the neg side of the coil and have someone crank the engine. does the light not even come on?(bad coil) or does it light up steady?(bad ignitor) or does it flicker?( ignitor good something else wrong) note do this with a fully charged battery and dont mistake the starter draw for ignitor flicker. there are beter ways to test this but this is the most simple/gheto/low budget whatever you want to call it.

no dont jb weld it. if you dont give a crap and just want to make a experiment out of it go ahead. I would not try anythig like that on a motor I would build. the correct answer is just like you assumed. yer skrewd. get another short block.

I did not see a year. if its 87 or later you may be able to clean it and recheck. you are puting the car in a limp mode without the airflow meter. It also could be a leak in the intake pluming. if air gets around the air flow meter and into the motor it will run like crap. what are you testing it with? and how?

yeah felpro and victor are both good alternatives. I am cautious about some of the cheap imported ones (stone ect.) some of the gaskets in those kits are kinda lame.

some of us have built our own. if you have acess to fabrication equipment you can do somthing like this. http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b34b48f7c4c7&notag=1 soobme has built a good deal of bumpers mabey he has a few tricks. I just used my old bumper as a template. making the mounting brackets fit properly was the most difficult part for me.

I would be in. let me know. I used to have good sources for that kind of stuff but not any more.

DOH! guess that shows how often I see a brat around here.

this may seem silly but I can get all those parts from my local indepenant parts store or mabey the napa store. did you check with a non dealer parts store? dealers dont deal well in older stuff.

I recomend doing the little hose to the heater pipe at the same time. also a good time to do T belts if they are due for changing. otherwise its not too bad. and yeah nice brat.

heep70- I think we are looking at the same problem from differant sides. I just wanted to point out that I have been shown coils with bad resistance values that fired and ones that were spot on that did not. my last automotive teacher was a briliant guy. He really tried to get us to diagnose things with better tests like the voltage drop tests, scope paterns, and comon sense. he also works for an independant shop and snap on diagnossis. he now is the head of his department at the school. I did not mention it before and should have. you can purchase spark testers of various makes and models for really checking spark corectly.they dont cost much. a spark that ony jumps a 1/4" is boarderline N.F.G. the pick up/module , ignitor or what ever else you hear it called is the guts of the disty that drive the coil at the proper time. heep70 has a good point with the timing light. it may be helpfullin diagnosing seems how it has a inductive pick up that detects the magnetic field(spark) in a plug wire.

the coil may be no good but the resistance test is kinda a poor test. If you had a means to measure KV or easier yet do the old how far can your spark jump trick and color (blue good- orange bad) I checked resistance on mine before instalation and it was somewhat similar to what you have. you may want to consider the pick up/module. they have to drive this new coil that might be a bit more work than it did before.

I bought the wrong bananas http://www.rathergood.com/bananas/

I did a rear main seal on the side of the road once. 4 hours of hell. I dont recomend it. but I do belive that I discovered a somewhat easyier way to do a clutch from the experience. I disconected the axles but I think that I could have left them on and still slid the tranny back far enough to get the clutch/flywheel out.

the balancing is the other part josh mentioned. rather important for long life. go WRX turbo. our stock turbo is too small.

wow at 6ft 200lbs I thought I was close to the limit. you guys must magically shrink to fit into your cars. this is good news thanks all. about that XT seat swap. I take it they are lower? never sat in a XT myself.

I have a guy that really wants to buy my RX but he does not think he will fit. he sat in a xt and it was too tight. is the interior about the same as a RX? I would like to find out what you guys think before telling him to come all the way to my house only to find out he wont fit. any tall guys here?

wow this has gotten out of hand. too manny people with this coil and plug wire problem. an ignition miss feels harsh and jerky. a fuel miss is a bit softer feeling. I installed a accel coil and a set of ngk wires with a new cap and rotor a while back. have not gotten to the plugs yet. and no problems of this nature. what is being described sounds a bit like a spark gone astray. rember that a spark will take the path of least resistance. has anyone checked thier dist. cap and rotor for carbon tracking? are those wires routed properly? ( personally I dislike the accel wires) loose fitting boots or defective wires can let the spark take a short cut to ground. if you cannot figure it out put your old stuff back on. does the problem go away? oh and the larger plug gap also means that it will be more dificult to jump that gap giving it more opertunity to find another path to ground.

just a little note. dealer mechanics usually dont know jack about any car 5years or older. unless of course they worked at a indepenant shop before. I agree it would be nice to give people some contacts. probably just as easy to ask your local sube guys. If your from so. Cal. I cant help you there. like NV zeno said in this area there are still a few shops that specialize in subes.