rallyruss

relax I would have come (I love to BBQ) but its a little bit out of the way for me.:-\

you can relax Zefy. you got it all correct. I am now on my second RX and both were just as you describe.

dam Caleb your set up looks realy simple compared to the compact mess that mine is. some detail on how you did the throttle cable would be nice. Im not about to reinvent the system on my wagon but I do have another RX coming to live here soon. hmm heres my mess.

I was forced to switch to an electic fan not long ago. here was the thread. http://http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54750&highlight=fan+clutch+hayden I still like a nice simple fan clutch but electric fans are ok too. makes belt changes a little more tricky.

well for the average car guy you may hear the pump running unevenly. for those of us that are auto tecs you can do a current ramp test to check the amp draw and view the signal. with this test you can pick out a bad spot on the pump motor. you can also check pressure and flow as well. it gets real obvious when the pump just quits.

19 years and 245,000 miles before it started to show signs of failure on my gl10 EA82T

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54746&highlight=distributor+rebuild you may find this of some interest if you have distribtior problems.

I have been going thru steering rack nightmares too. the reman unit I just installed is hard to turn to the right and now I need to swap it out again:mad: I was tempted to tear it appart but dont have the time to do it right. I would like some more info if any one has it.

this is correct. setting timing with out connecting the green connectors is not verry acurate at all. you may have an additional problem sure but set the timing properly first.

really yours is noisy? how did you mount it? mine is just as quiet or quieter than the OE one.

mine was an Ebay purchase. 120.00 shipped the company was http://www.extremepsi.com this pump flows 255 LPH. they have a lower flow one too but it was harder to find and was not much cheaper. so plenty of fuel for me. the part#s are differnt depending on who you are looking at SP183 was. it appears to be a high quality pump. it runs nice and quiet. I did a current ramp test on it and it looked good. thats how I knew my old one was on its way out(also by the sound) be warned the fittings are a pain to get correct. the pump uses a 10mm straight thread fitting out of the body. I had a hard time getting fittings that would work and I am still not completely happy with the way they fit. I never actually priced out any other direct fit pumps because I had always heard they were not cheap. as for the ford truck one well I dont know. I am not a big fan of most ford parts so I did bother to check out that option either.

a lift:grin: really you dont want to use springs alone to lift it 3". your C/V joints are already stressed. I did the original honda spring swap and it bolted right in for me no mods needed. I have since tried a few other rear suspension setups and have still not found what I really want. The honda springs are great if you carry a heavy load around often. the car will ride stiffer and sit higher. that will alter your handling/comfort slightly. my car gets worked hard and needs a real high end suspension for me to be happy. I am waiting to do the 5 lug swap and suspension all at one time someday. hard to do when you have too many toys that all want attention.

well finally got the new pump swaped in. its a little bit of a goofy fit but it seems to be working fine and is nice and quiet.

good job Brian. I knew you would get it done eventually.

I pulled Junkies 900 IC from the junk yard. It was not all that dificult to get at. mabey 15 min tops with a decent set of basic tools. I understand both sides of the prats removal arguments. I go with mixed policy. I dont damage any thing unless it is a part of little value or would really save some time and effort in pulling my desired part. but the point of the thread was about pulling the IC. My answer is it is easyer than pulling a saab 9000 IC or a ford(mazda626) probe IC. so go for it go get that Intercooler.

15" alloy pugs. 205 50 15 Khumo asx. speedo is dead on. handling is way better than stock. a nice fit. only down sides are increased cost of tire replacement and the wider tires tend to wander a little on our crappy california roads.

unfortunately I dont have experience with the exact set up you are trying but I did overcome a similar fitment issue with my TD04 and stock WRX down pipe. I cut and rewelded the down pipe right at the turbo flange to angle it down a little bit. its still a really close fit but has been working well for thousands of miles now.

holding my toung on that one. for a low budget job a low mileage replacement that has been resealed may be the most cost effective. when you say your motor needs a ton of work what exaxtly do you mean? you may need to do other repairs at the same time. such as radiator replacement, distributor repair/replace, tune up parts, filters, hoses, belts, clutch ect. keep all that in mind when figuring the costs.

I would think it was not running as well as it could be. my gl10 wagon hit 100 on flat ground with 3 people in the car and a rack on top. now I know I am not exactly stock but a well built RX should kick my arse any day.

I have been forced to run 87 before and have noticed a drop in performance and evin a bit of pinging under hard load(hill climbs) Caleb has laid our exactly how it works. thats all fact. not "my uncle joe bob says he can run 87 octain and still make 600 hp with his ford topaz" with a normaly aspirated car you can usually get away with 87 no problem. espically in cold weather. the real use of high octain fuel is for forced induction and high compression cars. now if you dared to put those two together you better be running higher octain.

that might be fun to ride down the slopes. nice little RX. somday I will have one without a smashed right rear corner. three of them now. All with body damage onthe right rear.

Will your a savage. and savages like EA82Ts. I make me laugh.

yes please do a search. the old accel coils were decent. the new ones are junk. Mine died after less than 10,000 miles. I put the original back in and it runs just fine. there are many accel users out there having trouble with the junk coils they are selling now.

well you are bit too far south for me to give you a hand. it sounds like your car is suffering from being ...well... old. I have to agree if you are somewhat mechanically inclined jump in there and do some of the repairs your self. A low milage car like that would be sweet to run in. My wagon has a few aches and pains at 243,000 miles. yours should be a bit better off. I have invested at least as much as you into mine.

my walbro just came it. looks like a real quality fuel pump. overall dimensions are really close to the original. just tring to get the 90 deg fitting on the pressure side worked out. as soon as I get that all figured out I will post an update.