rallyruss

I would be verry suspicious of the master cyl. I have had cars with old master cylinders get brake work done and then not bleed out the air properly before as well. most of the time it is the master cyl. that is at fault. now you may be thinking but it worked before why not now? think about this. you might not have changed the fluid verry often like most people forget to do. it absorbed moisture and started corroding the inside of the cyl. bore. not the part used everyday but the front portion. so when you went to bleed the brakes you pump the piston into the portion of the cyl. bore that it normally does not visit. In doing so the seals are damaged allowing air to get pulled into the cyl. when pumping the brake. this may not be the case. the hill hoder could be at fault or something else as well but a new master cyl. is cheap and easy to install. oh yeah dont buy any reman master cyl. they just don't last trust me. oh yeah to prevent this from hapening dont pump n bleed. use the gravity method as snowman said or use a suction device if you cannot get it to flow. if you really want to pump it use hooligans advice and pump slow and steady. one pump one bleed. as for copper washers we reuse them all the time at work because on lots of vehicles the old ones seal better than the new ones. might not be text book but it work for us. good luck

WJM, I didnt say not to do it. I am just shareing what little I know. by all means go for it an and let us know how it runs. I should have also mentioned that I am running a modified down pipe on the RX and a subespeed one on thw wagon. they both help performance a good bit.

I went to get a up pipe fabricated when I needed to replace mine a while back. the guy I talked to said he was more than willing to take my money but told me that the up pipe is restrictive like that to keep velocity up going into the turbo. he did say that if I was going with a larger turbo then he could see why I would want to go bigger. I put a stock pipe on and will keep it that way untill I go bigger. I now have a means to do some fabrication at home so when I do build a up pipe/down pipe combo I have a few theorys. I would order some mandrel bent tubing. preferably stainless 1.5 or 1.75 and cut and weld with a engine block as a jig. I would also use heat wrap to keep it hot going into the turbo as that is supposed to help.

o2 will not make it idle high. over advanced timing will. or a few other things but since you say you are having disty troubles.

ok I dont quiet get what you are saying here. the ecm turns on the relay, the relay gets its power from the fuse, the relay turns on the coil and the fuel pump. so if this were the problem it would not try to start at all. I think we are barking up th wrong tree. it could be as simple as a bad fuel pump. sometimes when pumps get a bad spot on the armature the will intermitantly not run. or a crappy connection could do this too. the FP wiring goes up under the rear seat, along the right side of the car up under the dash at the right kick pannel. trust me I have been in your shoes before.

I am not sure how the classes work where you live but here if you did that conversion for pro, club, or evin rally X it would throw you into open 4WD$$$$$. if you just want to rally X it just keep it stock and have a good time. just a little $ if you really want to rally buy a prebuilt car that has a cage, seats, and all the other necessary gear. basically find out what your local requirements are and go from there. I am making the move from Rally X to club rally right now and it wont be cheap.

some subes dont use a relay for the fuel pump. 92 loyale does though. it powers up both the fuel pump and the coil acording to my diagram. wiring off the coil will not help if the problem is on that circuit. it would however make trouble shooting a bit easyer. check for power at the coil + when it wont start. this could be the relay or the driver in the ecm. this has been a problem on some subes.

what do you mean its messin with the car? it controls the release of fuel vapors from the charcoal canister into the intake. usually at cruise.

the diffs almost always have tags to let you know whats inside. I always look under cars at the JY hoping to find a 3.7 lsd for my wagon. as for job skills, I am a journeyman mechanic heavy and light equipment. with ASE, smog, and other certifications. also worked in auto parts and tree work. oh I have a class B comercial lic. my wife is trying to become a teacher she just can't quit her job to finish school because of the cost of living down here.

um well the same size as the glass pack outlet? 2" is usually sufficient and will keep noise down a bit.

sorry no resources for a older sube. just wanted to back up junkies statment that its 30 years or older now for smog exemption. at least that was the word I had in my most recent Smog update class. sorry to get off track but do you know if anyone is hiring up in your area? I want to move up there some time soon. I just cant quit my job here untill I find a new one.

I have a RX for sale here in California it has a fairy good body some dings and dents. missing one trim piece. no rust on the bottom side. it had one rust spot by the window that I fixed myself and would probably have been better off repaired by a professional. I did use it for rally X last summer. I am looking to buy a complete rally car now so I need to get rid of the RX as soon as possible. if you want more details let me know.

I snuck the power lead through the gromit at the drivers side top rear of the engine compartment near the fuel filter. as for how long I would get at least 12 FT to have enough flexibilty in the way you run it. I pulled the seats out as well as the center council and some trim to run mine. it took a lot longer than I expected. oh yeah use split loom to protect it too.

just about all older subes I have seen have some wobble in the front output to the cv shaft. they also tend to leak there. I would not recomend tightening the collar on the bearing. I seem to rember trying that on my old 85 GL wagon with poor results. sorry I dont have a FIX for this problem but it does not seem to be a thing to worry about either. my cars ran many miles like that.

hey tex just rember if it thinks it is seeing less air it will add less fuel. this will cause a lean condition under boost most likely at high RPM. and you know what hapens to lean turbo cars. I have a dead 2002 jetta 1.8Turbo (not mine) in my garage. one of the contributing factors to its demise was a lean condition caused by a dirty MAF due to a crappy aftermarket foam air filter. sorry to go off here a bit but this job is such a pain. I would like to stress this point LEAN BAD.

I made my own. there are some avl. in AU and NZ I think. I just worked off soobme's design.

skip has a good grip on how the fuel cut works and a possible way to get around it with the stock system but it seems a bit dangerous to me. you wolud have to fool the computer into thinking that there was less air flow than there really was and then set up a way to enrich the mixture to compensate for fooing the ecm into letting you flow more air. seems to me if you really wanted to build a high power turbo system you would need a stand alone fuel system. these have been discused in the past. I installed one on my toy. 4x4 when I converted it to EFI with mixed results. power was great but drivability was a pain to dial in. I ended up installing a ECM and related parts from a Celica and it runs great now.

I took the rally school at thunder hill this last summer. not to bad if you really want to rally. lots of verry rally specific info. navigation car classes and stage info as well as some actual driving. there was a rally cross after the school that was lots of fun.

not likely to be a bad turbo. it would have to rust through the housing or crack internaly. I would suspect head gasket. To find out pull plugs and check to see if coolant steam cleaned all the cylinders or just one or two. turbo leakage would be in all 4.

nice fab work. good to see some quality stuff put together. I like the snow IC.

part throttle surge could be a bad TPS (throtle position sensor) or a over active EGR valve. those are the first 2 things that come to mind. fuel pressure is probably ok if it get better with full throttle. as for rags in motors, I did a real good one once. I did intake gaskets on a 97 chevy 350 after work. I had put rags in the lifter vally during cleaning. well AFTER I put the intake back on and was about to install the dist. I realized what I did. I fished them out through the dist. hole in the manifold. thats why I dont like to rush jobs. something always gets overlooked.

yeah skip that was the book. lots of good info. I read it first then started modifing afterwards. as for the boost creep. put a intercooler on and let it go. I like it. just have to watch the boost gauge. mine has a warning tone set to go off at high boost. still looking for a legacy or WRX turbo. anyone have a spare? I feel this would do the trick. and yes I know there is fabrication involved. I will make more parts if I could get a sample turbo.

I have noticed the same thing on both of my cars as well. under stock conditions boost was stable all the time. after custom exhaust and intake silencer removal with a K/N, they both do the boost creep. this happens at hight RPM or on a long steep grade. I hate to disagree with skip because he is a smart guy but there are to many people here that have experienced the same thing. I do belive its flow related. I have 1 subespeed down pipe with 2.5 out the back, intercooled on the wagon. custom modified down pipe with 2.5 as well on the RX. the waste gate just alows some exhaust to go around the turbo. what if our turbos are too small for the incerased flow? they cant dump excess exhaust fast enough. I read a verry good book on turbos once and he mentioned the possibility of this, espically with a internal wastegate. I think if you had a slightly larger turbo this would not be a issue.

made a little home brew boost controler last night. cranked it to the 12-13 range. my passenger seat helper agreed that it pulls a lot harder now. havent hit the fuel cut yet. need to find a good long up hill and see what it does. seems how its intercooled I think she will be ok. I will do some testing and report back:D :burnout:

ok so switching to tues is not so easy. I still hope to go up on wens. if anyone is interested, most likely dodge ridge. I ususally get a early start so I can be out on the slopes by 10. 8:00 from sac then get rentals would be a bit of a late start for me too. Im low cash just like everyone so I try to get the fullest days possible. oh yeah I will be at kirkwood on sun too. mabey we can get something together? if not another time.