rallyruss

I have an intercooler W/ down pipe and a bypass (not a blow off) valve. without altering stock boost settings I have had significant gains in power with these mods alone. It does over boost sometimes when I wind it out but it just makes it go faster I hit over 15 LBS sometimes with no fuel cut. mabey its just my car . manuel boost cotroller goes inline with the actuator on the turbo waste gate. I used a bypass valve because it was recomeneded by others on the board over a blow off valve. boost on

from my limited experience. this last couple of times I really wished I was running a smaller tire. mine were 195 75 r14. for regular off road use these are great but for rally X they made me sit too high and lose a bit of power. if I were to run again I would get some little 13" rally tires. you could really get loose when needed. I did the home work on rally tires after I picked up the brigstone deuler a/t's. now they are on the wagon. you understand rally tires throws you into 4wd open class against the real rally cars? I did not know that when I got into it.

dealer or custom JE is a pain to deal with. how bad are the old pistons? if they are ok reuse them. all other options are expensive.:eh:

the green wires are for the flash codes. I think I heard that some codes will dissapear if you turn the key off after they are set. oh yeah skip you got me. mine is a hot wire set up. it was not untill after posting that I realized what I had said. I guess I should have said that they are verry similar. my mistake. I used to have an 85. as for the fuel pressure thing I tape it to the windshield. you are right again fuel in the cabin is not to cool. what about that transistor in the ecu that drives the fuel pump? I know I had trouble with that before on my old 85 wagon. to check I ran a wire from the coil pos. to the fuel pump and viola problem gone. not a perminant fix for sure.

ok I will take some guesses seems how our cars are identical, even same color:D ok so only when wheeling. I agree to chech codes and electrical connections first. if it were a lack of fuel delivery like a cloged filter or fuel sock it would show up under hard acceleration too. how full is the fuel tank does that make a differance? connections at fuel pump? try getting a cheap fuel psi gauge and tee into the pressure line. watch the pressure at the time of trouble. ok I could go on forever here so go check some stuff and get back to us.

I appreciate the offer, but I am sure the trouble to get that turbo from off that car and then down here to me would not be an inexpensive proposition. if I were a local up there I would take you up on that one. Ok I guess I want to get crazy with a bigger turbo too thank you , its the best thing I have got back so far.

ok I grabed one from the junk yard and its just as sloppy as my old one:madder: as well as an intercooler that will not fit off a probe. does any one know where to get them rebuilt at a reasonable price? or have legacy turbo parts????

ok I am going to the J/Y now to see what I can see. hope to see a legacy turbo:D if not a regular turbo will have to do.:eh:

never heard of p/s fluid boiling over. cant be a good thing. there are no bleder screws. you first add fluid. then with wheels off the ground turn wheels lock to lock a few times slowly. check fluid and add if needed. then start car and do the same thing. again top off fluid. if the car still makes noise drive it for a while it will usualy work the air out of the system. ( unless its my wifes car that hates me:banghead: ) this is the procedure I was given way back in school.

coming from the outside 4X4 world before subes. when you do a suspension lift on a toyota, chevy ect. you put spacers in to drop the suspension components. when you do a body lift you add spacers between the body and frame. body lifts dont gain a lot in the way of ground clearance due to the fact that the frame is exactly where it started. vw bugs have body lifts that actually lift the shell off the pan a few inches. thats as close to a unibody lift as I know. It would seem to me that what we do to lift a sube is more like a suspension lift than a body lift. body lifts are for trucks that dont really wheel usually. just makes more sense to me that way. ok im ready for the:argue: .

So the turbo on the rx is blowing lots of oil into the intake and the shaft is slopy it still spools up. at the rally X last weekend it was blowing lots of smoke as it ran around the track. here is the delima. I could go looking for another stock turbo. not to dificult espically since the car will be up for sale soon. or I could try to upgrade to either a WRX turbo $$$ or do the legacy turbo hybrid thing that I have heard of. I understand there would be at least a new up pipe involved with the WRX turbo and thats not a problem I can fabricate something there. does any one have some spare turbo stuff around? sugetions for a low budget? (under 200 bones). :cornfuzz:

power steering fluid is virtualy the same stuff as ATF but it suposedly has more antifoaming agents in it. I have used PS fluid with no trouble for many miles. I see vehicles all ther time at work where the fluids have been mixed up with no problems. sometimes it does take a while to get all the air out of a system. if you already attempted bleeding and drove the car for a good while. I would check for leaks. its rare but if you have a leak in the system that alows air to be sucked in at some point you would have a problem with air bubbles. doubt thats it but just a thought.

Interesting thought and it might work if you are into reprograming ecu's ect. I would not try it for a few reasons.first the air temp sensor is built into the maf and would be verry confused as to what actual inital air temp is. second the efectivness of the hot wire set up would be compromised. it calculates air flow by how much the passing air cools the heated wire. it most likely would cause an error on the lean side. not good:eh: . to answer snot rockets question. air injection on the cars you are speaking of works on cold start up to help warm up the cat. the O2 is still sleeping untill after the air injection shuts down. and yes older subes had pulse air injection used with carb setups.

unfortunately I dont have a means of posting pics but if I can hook up with stormtrooper aka Don mabey we can get them posted. yeah I was prepared for a little honda bashing. It was just too cool and easy not to share with the group. going to take it for a better test drive today to get the feel for it. the lift height is aprox 2 to 4 inches. its hard to tell because I had a spacer under the stock spring to boost it up a little before the swap. this was not intended to be a lift but it just hapend to turn out this way. I am thinking of a combination stress bar/camber adjustment for non lifted cars next. seems how the discussion went that way.

ok heres how it went. the rear of the wagon would sag under any kind of load. I found out about king springs and some others out of AU. cool stuff but a bit much in shipping ect. so on my junk yard excursion the other day I noticed that front springs on a 88 accord hatch looked about the same. I poped them off and eyeballed it against a sube. picked em up for 37$ and installed them today on the rear of my wagon. they fit perfect! it lifted the rear a few inches. if you dont mind a raked sube it is frickin great. it rides nice still but will hopefully handle a load a bit better. ok time to celibrate:drunk:

the dextron flush works good and red line also makes "MTL" specificaly for manual tranys. I have used it in many vehicles even brand new cars with exelent results. it may take a little while for the tranny to start shifting better but if it is not completely worn out it will get better. my RX is a perfect example. when I picked it up it ground 3rd gear alot. now it shifts great:headbang: I add a quart or dextron to the motor to flush it out right before a oil change. works cool for me. the whole point is ATF has lots of detergent to free up gunk that has built up over time. you chose what you want to do but lots of old school mechanics have done it for years. chose wisely

had mine done too with no problems bolting up the manifold. if they have to remove enough to make the manifold not fit it would have been too much. .005 should be no problem or more will still work.

cool . if that turbo was designed for a wrx then the exhaust side flange is slightly different than a ea82 turbo ( I tried it once). I have considered doing a wrx turbo swap. but it requires a good deal of fabrication and I need more time/money:-\ adam have you done the legacy turbo hybrid? sounds really cool. I want to know more. sounds easy enough to do.

just my bit of input. if the short block is ok dont mess with it. just do the gaskets. if you really want to tear down the lower end have fun and take your time. it will drastically increase your expense if you do the job correctly. just a note most machine shops dont know how to deal with a sube block. just speaking from my own experience. as for the cost of the parts. thats a little high if it does not include rings. and you definately should do rings if you tear down

yes check resistance on the solinoid. I dont think its on the canister itself but I could be wrong. there are some better tests but resistance is easyest for most people.

the purge solinoid is for purging the vapors from the charcoal canister (can up in right front of car) folow the lines off the canister to see where the solioid is. I think its on the manifold. depending on what failed you could have diferent problems. check connections and all that but it probably is shorted out.:-\

makesure you dont have any leaks first. you should change the acumilator at the same time. yeah new seals too. use the pag oil with a 134a conversion. the stuf with dye is good to use but dont touch the stuff with sealant in it. real bad for a/c systems.

my wagon does not use much if any coolant. I think I added mabey a quart in the last 10,000 miles. using coolant could indicate a bad gasket somewhere. seepage?:-\ you dont fill the bottle to the top right? only half way. as for oil I add a couple quarts for 5,000 miles of use. I use Red Line synthetic so I spread out the oil changes a bit.

idle switch is built into the tps. as long as the throttle is closed you should be good to go.

when I did mine I just did minor deburing/polishing. I have been told by eng. builders to be verry carefull when removing material from heads. if you take out too much or the wrong spot you will actually lose performance. a good friend with a grand national found out the hard way. so go real easy on em.