rallyruss

how is the idle once warm? there is an adjustment on the side for the throttle body for idle speed. but wam up idle is controled by the valve bolted to the throttle body. check timing and vac. leaks. also temp. sensor. resistance spec. for the idle air motor is around 35 ohms but that does not help much.

dont stress on the marks. not unusual at all. it is caused by the type of head hasket previously used. if you machine the head you will be in good shape. BTW dont use any sealer on the head gaskets. they are designed to be installed dry. the only stuff that I have heard is ok is some kind of copper kote? dry is best.

uh... my cars dont have cartriges:cornfuzz: both have complete strut assys. sealed. they bolt onto the spindle assy and have a clamping bolt to tighten down on the strut housing. what are your plans?

on the dist. if you seal the cap and install a vent hose be sure to plug the drain hole on the bottom of the dist. the charging thing is usually the alt. belt slipping when wet hence a squeak when it gets grip again and starts charging. I would run the belt a bit tighter. yeah puddles are fun at speed:headbang:

I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel then cleaned it up with a sanding disc. a nibbler would have been real nice though.

ok so I and a few others have had a problem with surging at light throttle. after a little discussion last time I decided to check out if EGR was causing it. sho nuff:D I disconected and pluged the vac. line into the egr and test drove the car. surge gone. not like kinda gone. really gone. ok so then I broke out the vac. diagram and discovered that there is supposed to be a orifice in the vac line. I replaced all the vac lines when I replaced the motor and most likely chucked the orifice with the old vac. lines. I am looking for another orifice to install inline and will let you know how it goes. hope this helps someone else too.

yeah a few of us have made scoops for our cars. I made one out of fiber glass to match my intercooler. kinda a long process. subarutex had a real nice one on his car too.

I just finnished my version of bumper/brushguard. sorry no pics. it looks alot like soobme's set up. yeah I stole some ideas and made a few changes. kinda a pain in the rear. I think I spent 8+ hours on it. thanks to all who helped throw out ideas. I would build more but they are way to time consuming. I suppose if you worked out a good jig and blueprint it would be possible.

pinching off the vac. line to egr will just make the egr inop. I have a similar problem on my gl10 I have checked the TPS, airflow meter, O2. I still need to check to see if the egr is being applied early that might cause what you describe. posible loss of spark? probably not. if your problem is like mine it goes away under throttle? hope we figure this out. I have seen others post about th same thing.

I removed the A/C from the R/X recently. not to bad a job but you do need to pull the radiator to get the condenser out and the compressor is easyer to get off with the fan clutch out. good time to do T. belts too. I am only running a single belt now but will be looking for a shorty to go around the p.s. and w.p. good luck.

wich system is it exactly? duel range? full time? I was planing on building my R/X as a rally car but have reconsidered. it would work fine for a rally X car. there are no upgraded factory replacement struts avl. for those cars that would work for rally. custom coil overs are possible but not cheap.:-\ the cabin area would be a bit tight with a roll cage installed. it would also place you in the same class as the WRX and lancer evo. In stock form those cars are awesome. I will be looking to buy a 2wd normaly aspirated car first to have a low cost starter car. I recomend buying a completed car too. not what you wanted to hear but it might save some frustration. if the budget alows go for it. any thing can be done with enough green backs. good luck.

dont mess with it donald. no silly air spinners for you. havent heard from you for a while drop me an e mail or sumtin. gotta try to hook up again.

if you have a click but no start. it can be a bad starter. the contacts get worn out after a while. jump starting could have given it the extra juice to close the contacts. gently beat on the starter with a piece of wood while someone holds it in the crank position. if it starts its a starter problem. there are more things to chech but thats the easyest. good luck

inductive simply means that it picks up a signal from a plug wire when the clip is placed around the wire. something about magnetic feilds and all. never heard of a non inductive timing light unless you are refering to one designed for coil on plug ignition. as for the air gap just like GD said it usually does not need to be checked. you can usually feel the play in the shaft if it is excessive. what type of problem are you tring to fix?

thats a valid quicky test to try to isolate an injector with a bad coil. but cloging problems wont show up that way. resistance is not quite as good as a voltage drop test. measuring voltage drop on a running engine can tell you a lot or better yet use a scope or graphing meter. I love my snap on vantage:headbang:

has any one purchased or built any type of brush guard/bumper? I will be attempting to fabricate one soon. just curious if any one has any helpfull input as to design ideas good or bad.

Im only using my personal observations from work and home. I have pulled verry few fuel tanks that had crap in them. those that did were nasty. I took one out of a newer s10 that had both dirt and water in it. funny thing the fuel pump had gone out:rolleyes: yeah you have a good point about having the injectors cleaned seperatly that is the correct fix for them any how. I guess its just tempting to take the easy fix and risk disturbing the rest of the fuel system. I think what I will do is pull the injectors . have them professionally cleaned and flow checked as soon as time and money allow.:-\

ok so here is my results. I used 3 bottles of the prestone stuff on a almost empt tank. drove it a little way then filled the tank. so far so good. surging is still present but not nearly as bad as before. I definatly saw an improvement. I dont usually go for wonder in a can stuff but this seems to have helped. as for the crap in the tank theory.I dont think most tanks really have that much crap in them if the vehicle is used regularly and has not sat for years.

I am interested. I have a surge at light throttle. espically when cold. everything else is good. I will try a good injector cleaning too. after 203,000mi it probably needs it. thanks for the tip.

yeah skip. I have had the crossovers off a couple of times. the first time I did it I opened up the ports just like you said to provide a smoother transition as I too thought it was restrictive. that crossover later cracked in a bad place to weld. when I changed it out I did not do the same porting as I had done the first time around. it seems to have the same amount of power now as with the ported version. I dont have the luxury of a dyno to tell anything for sure. I had gone to a muffler shop that does fabrication such as that. he said he would do it for me but I probably would be upset with the performance with out a larger turbo to match the flow with. dont get me wrong I am not tryin to criticize your work I think its great. just trying to sare some info. cheers:headbang:

looks cool. the side by pass tube is a great idea. I have a few sugestions if any one wants to make a nice duplicate of that one. I have read that when making a bypass pipe such as the one you have it is a good idea to use a section of flex pipe(on the small pipe) to keep the assembly from cracking due to temp differences. also the crosover or up pipe is designed to be slightly restrictive to keep flow speed fast going into the turbo. I was told not to mess with the size of the up pipe unless going to a larger(wrx?) turbo:banana: . not speaking from experience as I have yet to make the mods necessary to mount a wrx turbo but when the time comes lookout. sorry but those do not look like mandrle bends to me. a true mandrle bender supposedly uses a die on the inside of the pipe while bending. making a multiple bend section without welds such as that not possible. I could be wrong but this is what I have seen in the past.

I agree with general disorder. check the charging system first. on many asian vehicles when the alt. goes kaput it triggers multiple lights to come on on the dash. also could be the reason the lights dont work who knows. if charging system is ok have fun and get a diagram.

just my opinion but the few "smog" items that are on an ea82t are not big power robbing devices. if anything it keeps every thing running well. I understand removing air pumps and such things from older poorly designed emisions systems but thats a different story. IF I were to remove things, cats would go. mabey vent the crankcase to the atmosphere. do NOT tie the two valve covers togeter. it will build up too much pressure and blow leaks and seals. guess im a bit jellous because I have to smog all my cars here and could not remove stuff even if i wanted too

dynamax muffler 2.5 piping out the back makes a big differance too. I ran the muffler straight the first day, too loud without a good tailpipe. sounds like a wrx rumble now. not too loud;)

I assume you checked the fuses ect. first?