rallyruss

thanks Caleb. If I had a donation of a bad distributor I would go ahead and do a little write up with pics. I bet the bearing could be purchased at a regular parts store too as long as you got the right part number. bearings like this are often used as pilot bearings or idler bearings. as for MAFs. well all I can really do there is clean a dirty MAF. but anyone can do that. If someone has a source for affordable NEW distributor sensors please pipe up here.

actually I like to funnel bugs into my engine. It gets a little extra fuel mileage that way. yes its a wrx TMIC to go with the TD04 turbo. previously designed to fit my VW intercooler that was with the stock turbo. If you look in my picture gallery you can see some pics of the set up. I dont know Buddy. My wife gets a bit upset if I spend too much time with other car nutz. your still a young single cat. someday you will understand. the trip was awesome. there were more pics but they were a bit crappy because they were from a disposible camera after the battery in my digital died. at one point we climbed one canyon dirt road that scaled a cliff by zig zaging up the face. near the top there was ice on the path and a drop of who knows how many feet off the side. I have a pic of myself on the top of it. we also went caving in Arizona. camping in moab. and lots and lots of driving. as the saltlake pic shows we barred thru a few nasty storms. a caravan of subarus and or other vehicles would be safest for some of the off road adventures. I have been real lucky to be able to fix breakage on the trail but some day I will be stuck good if I am not carefull.

yeah I had multiple rust sources. first was a no brainer. I installed "nutserts" to attach my bike and snowboard attachments. but that made holes that water could get in. second was the pin hole leaks in the welding. I had two. very tiny. showed up on some corners I did not quite wrap the weld around enough. now I know how to fix my leaks but getting the water out first will be a pain. yes the gutter mounts like Junkies has are stronger in my opinion. although my rack has held my 210 lb self on it before. the roof did flex a bit. His fab guy does good work. I coppied his bumper design. as for paint I would guess powder coating would be the cats pajamas but its not cheap if you dont have your own set up. bed liner spray is an option as brian has shown. Thats what my front bumper has. I will chip with some abuse but is better than regular rattlecan.

recently returned from a nice roadtrip in my wagon. thought I would share some pics of it cruzing around the south west. Tuscon Canyonlands salt lake(snowbird) brrr cold it was a great adventure but this should give you all just a taste.

on a recent road trip I had my fan clutch die. it was only 50k miles old. well It was a pain trying to find the last one and sure enough no parts stores in Tuscon AZ had any let alone good listings. I decided that a electric fan was gonig to be my best bet. I picked up a 12" hayden fan at the local checker parts store. to thier credit they were at least helpfull there unlike the ones around here. removed the old fan assy. reinstall bolts and then attach the new fan. I wired it up using a fuse and a relay to come on any time the car is running. If I keep it that will need to be improved with a temp switch. another forseable problem is increased dificulty in acessing the front of the motor. I dont recomend this as the "best" fix. But it may get you out of a jam.

I recently had my disty die in my 87 gl10. I swaped in a used spare I had sitting around. It worked but had a bad top bearing inside. I tried to find a new replacemet sensor for the dead distributor with little luck. on line subaru parts places blew me off and my local parts store ordered some thing that was not what I needed. I finally went down to the junk yard and tore appart a distributor in a SPFI car. what luck its the same. I ordered a couple heavy duty replacment bearings from mcmaster carr. if you wonder the o.e. bearing was a NTN 6200. swaped the spfi sensor and a new bearing into my original distributor and it works great now. swaped the second new bearing into my spare distributor. now I have two good distributors for less than 30$ hows that for el cheapo? I post this because I read in the USRM that if you had distributor bearings failing then you need a new distributor. If you are willing to take a little extra time and effort you can save some fundage and still get a "better than junkyard" distributor. no I did not take pics. Its not that hard to do but if people are interested I would do another and document the process.

here was the begining stages of construction for my current rack. the roof mounts work for what I use it for(snow boards, bikes ect.) but gutter mounts are probably more secure for heavy loads. make sure rain water cannot get into your rack it will rust the inside and blow out on the road creating a mess on top of the car. also regular spray paint does not hold up to road debris and bugs. keep that in mind.

Yay

if you are willing to do the fab work a steering quickener could work. I personally just swaped in a remanufactured rack designed for the XT (not xt6) in my gl10 wagon. It tightened the steering ratio just a little. the original was aprox. 3.7 turns lock to lock. the xt unit was about 3.4 turns. thats just my observation of before and after. also note the pasenger side bushing is different. you really should order XT bushings to go with the rack. problem is the new stupid rack is not set up properly. it turns real nice to the left but hard to the right. oh well guess I get send it back for waranty.

my rallyX RX had the same problem. I removed and gutted the hill holder and all is well.

I am ordering a Walbro SP183 as my wagons fuel pump is about to take a dump. I will let you know how it goes. damit I guess I am sucked back into this message board again. oh well I guess I can share all the trials and tribulations I have had since my disapearance. might help some one out.

I have a set of EA81 hubs sitting around waiting to be disposed of. I can check the spline count if you want. Email me if interested.

Nice work Samo. Very well thought out. hopefully this will avoid problems caused by "sterio boy" as my teacher used to say. I have had good luck getting the parts you mention from www.crutchfield.com

there are no bearings on the cam. you should be able to soake them as long as you replace all O rings and seals.

after some flow increasing mods my stock waste gate could not dump enough exhaust to slow down the turbo. This would cause overboosting as you have described we had a thread on it long ago. after swaping to the TD04 the problem is completely gone. but now I run 15psi sometimes just because I want to:D. Fuel cut has not been a problem for the most part. no pinging but It probably wont last as long this way.

I vote HG porblem. I have seen it before just like you have stated. just the smallest split in the rign that seals the cyl. and compression can leak thru the gasket and pressurize the cooling system. no steam pumping and motor will run ok.

sorry as im not of much help here but I do appreciate the time and effort to compile the stats. now I know how tubby my wagons are. my RX feels tons lighter than the wagon but according to your info its not that much. hmm interesting.

the slop in the column may be a real easy fix. my old 85 gl wagon had the same problem. I pulled the wheel off and found a broken bushing/bearing mount. I did not have a welder at the time so I just used a hose clamp to secure it. it held up fine untill the car was totaled 2 owners after me. as for the racks I dont know for sure what will swap. I did do an XT rack into a loyal one time. the XT has a tighter ratio.

the original mastercyl. turned out to be shot on the RX. it was leaking and had poor pedal feel. I ordered a new master cyl. identical to the old one. installed and bled the brakes gravity style. Now the brakes work but are draging bad like its not relaesing the pressure. I suspect the hill holder is at fault. any one else have this happen? I think it might have been happening a little bit before I installed the new master cyl. but now its bad.

Nippon piston rings are verry high quality in my opinoin. they are a supplyer for such major manufactures as Toyota and Mercedes and many more. http://www.masterautoparts.com had the NPR rings listed in stock for 39.95 that was just the first place I looked. they are the rings I am using in the newly rebuilt RX motor and so far they are working just fine. not knocking the dealer but on items like this but the manufacture buys them from a supplyer who then sells them to a dealership. The dealership sells them to the consumer. thats two extra mark ups on prices than if you just bought from a distributor. yes I leared a bit working in the auto parts bussiness for 4 years.

I thought the point of getting a junk yard motor was to just swap and run it? sounds like your getting in a bit deeper that you expected. you can purchase Nipon piston rings that work quiet nicely from a good parts store. ask for a place that buys from IMC or Worldpac. I did rings bearings gaskets (all Japan stuff) for probably around 350$(my price) for the rallyX RX. since no one wants my spare motor I may build it up too and find somthing to drop it in.

no problem. and welcome.

I thought my kawasaki powered go kart was nutz. that thing is crazy. total death trap.

there are lots of ways to gain enough movement to clear the axle. I personally pop the tie rod out and lower ball joint. you do NOT hit the tie rod itself. smack the nuckle with a BFH and it will pop right out. leave the nut threaded on to protect the threads in case you miss and hit the tie rod.

check the coolant temp sensor and connector for corrosion. that will cause a rich condition and poor drivability