rallyruss

con rods are 29 to 31 ft lbs. cyl. heads torque from the middle out. check out this source. it has the FSM in PDF files http://ww2.finleyweb.net:9394/default.asp?id=142

It would be odd on a subaru but that would be my first guess too. your turbo rebuilder probably is not testing the seals but the bearings. seals may still be bad under actual use. um why bother getting the stock turbo rebuilt? I thought you had bigger and better things in the works?

many of the wheel bearings I have replaced have been different than stock. I dont know what bearing you need but the newer aftermarket EA82 bearings usually eliminate the stupid spacer in the middle for the front and the rears are different too. similar change if I rember correct. the pics show up tiny for me.

mine droped right in on the wagon and my old(junkies RX) stock fans and rad. support. I did have a problem on the wagon where the end tank on the passengers side was rubbing the rear of the head light bucket but that was from previously repaired front end damage if I am not mistaken. where are you guys getting your radiators from? mine were both from perfomance radiator if I rember correctly.

I unfortunately know what you mean. :-\

I recomend hooking up the bypass valve as it was intended. when you leave it off with the stock ECM they tend to stumble between shifts or any time the the bypass opens because the air that gets dumped had already been measured by the MAF sensor. It throws off the mixture a bit and our old ECMs are not quick enough to adjust for that loss. I was able to fabricate a hose fitting to attach onto my WRX bypass valve. Its not real complicated. 30$ is a great price. grab it.

well i did not have to remove it completely. Just disconected it and scooted it back so I could reach down between the motor and trans and pullout the clutch and flywheel. Like I said That was the one and only time. I will never let myself get in that situation again.

the super pro bushings I installed were really simple actually. the sleves did not have to be removed just the bushings. if you drill some holed in the bushing then knock it out it goes real easy. car rides nice now and the rear camber issue is fixed too.

my wagon is almost as quick as my wifes WRX. I let her drive it the other day and first thing she does is peel out down the street. now she wants me to pump up her car. I dont think so. its still under waranty and is problem free. the GL10 wagon can run 15psi, WRX TD04 turbo and IC, slightly modified up pipe. WRX down pipe and 2.5" exhaust stock air box(k/n drop in) with enlarged hole to the inner fender for fresh air. the TD04 is problaby the key component for me. have had it in TD04 form for over a year now. only cranked up the boost just recently as my motor waranty done. keep in mind I have added heat shields to keep the heat away from my IC and fresh air coming in. Two row radiator. auxilary oil cooler. If you want more power and you want it to last then you need to keep things cool.

timing belts are rather sensitive. As are the idler bearings ect. lots of water and fine debris go thru the radiator right at the front of the motor. either run with no covers and cut a few muinets of the belt and idler changes that you will be doing on a more regular bassis. Or find a new(used) set of covers and make your belts and idlers last a full life span. 60,000 miles is the normal T belt change. thats quite a few years for my car that I dont need to mess with it. I certianly dont want to do more work than I really have too. Just my opinon. I know I am in the minority here and thats ok with me.

um yeah its happend to me before. I helped out a friend one time that needed a complete reseal. put it all back together and was delivering it to his house.(his wife was having a baby that night) about 20 miles down the road it poped out making a big mess and smoke screen as the oil got on the hot exhaust. I was determined to deliver the car that night so I limped it off the road and proceded to pull the trans on the side of the road and reinstall the seal. got it back in and deliverd the car. I will never do that again. I have since studied the way the rear main fits in the case closely. If you drive it in flush with the case it is not fully installed. There is a small taper that you must push it past. about an extra mm in past flush. Once the seal is in this far it seats properly and will not pop out. The other reason they pop out is crank case pressure (hence why it happens at highway speed). Make sure the PCV valve and crank case vents are clear and working properly. Hope this saves somone else from redoing a rear main seal on the side of the road.

nice call Suberdave.:cool: glad you found it and it was a simple fix.

if no bypass is used the wear on the turbo is slightly increased. the sound changes some when you install the bypass. It will not "shutter" so much but just "whoosh" hope that makes sense. If you plan on increasing flow or boost I recomend the Bypass valve. your car will thank you. It also lets the turbo keep spinning between shifts. thats a good thing for quick spool up after a shift.

on the 89 the ground for low beam should be the red with black wire. it goes to a splice then to the head light switch. for high beam its the red with white. seperate grounds for high and low circits. if the probelm exist with both high and low beam settings then I have to take a step back and say check the relay output and fuse(#8 15amp)

the noise you hear is the boost pressure that is stuck in the intake when the throttle plate closes while the turbo is still spinning. hence the need for a bypass valve. I dont feel the air box chop does any good it just lets the motor suck in hot air that blew thru the radiator to get there. but if you like the noise it makes then have fun. this is how I hooked up a Bosch bypass on the RX. the silly little cone filter came with the car. not my fault.

great minds think alike? ...hmm

you have an open ground by the readings you shared. its getting its ground thru the other light right now.

this is the set up on the wagon without the rubber flaps that direct the air into it. there is another bracket that is hidden on the back side. Subarian- yeah Junkies IC is off a 900. I know because I removed it from the doner veh.

the intercooler should be somewhat isolated from the motors vibration by a flexible joint or a long enough silicone hose section. then make solid mounts to the body of the car. your intercooler has no mounting points? thats odd. if thats the case then you need to make a "cradle" for it.

yeah thats the easy way. I am now in the habit of just pulling motors out of new subes I buy and fixing the leaks/problems that way.

this is true. I helped a friend change a smashed pan after he decided it might be fun to launch off a jump. made removing the pan more dificult. that was another reason resealing with RTV and no gasket was simpler.

distributor advace sticking?

yes you need to unbolt the motor mounts and lift it a bit. remove the down pipe. I recomend new gaskets for turbo motors. I have had problems reusing them. you can get the rear bolts with a 1/4" drive 10mm and a wobbly socket or use a #3 phillips thru the holes in the crossmember. scraping the old crusty gasket off is the worst part in my opinion. you may want to invest in some spray gasket remover and a good scrapper. you can use a stock type cork gasket or straight RTV(ultra grey or black) both ways work. I think the RTV method will last the longest.

your welcome:lol: It did not work anyway. thats why I yanked it. I vote to keep the clutch fan unless you plan on upgraging the alternator at the same time. electric fans draw lots of amps. I assume if you barely have cash enough to do the motor with a used short block then you dont need to dump money into "play" items.

he has a point. I would keep it vw. the sube swaps are for vanagons and and that type of VW.