sirrobert09

well all figured out but i cant get the injectors to seal back up in the manifold they leak from the top on the passenger side the driver side is just dripping. They where fine with no leaks after installation. the o-rings are not torn and the bolts are all the way down. Was going to try another set of o-rings from my metric box that are a tiny bit thicker. Would they hold up to the fuel or do they need to be made of something special?

okay finally a success after building a fuel pressure tester ( fuel pressure came out good) pulling the cats (not clogged) finally just pulled all the injectors and built myself a cleaning rig. set the psi on my compressor to about 20 ran straight chevron techron through them both directions back in the car no more stuttering. Car still feels kinda lacking on power tho but may just be from me going from my wrx to automatic 2.5i Thanks for all the help

I had checked the wires already reading about them not being clicked in. So i did double check them to be sure they are all clicked in just replaced them during this problem. Haven't been able to get back into it since its been wet and cold these last few days and I'm working outside

Oh no I have no engine codes any more those codes where gone with the new fuel pump now its these symptoms with no codes. if you find out please share. I started pulling the cats before work but ran out of time I suspect mine are clogged.

for amusements sake i unplugged the knock sensor just to make sure it wasn't causing any issues the timing advance looked slightly less erratic for a second then right back to normal with the same results under throttle. I have no idea how far the throttle should be open at idle the computer says its idling at 14% throttle and seems to be responding on the graph correctly. What are the two black objects inline near the firewall one on the fuel line in and one on the return line they are about where the fuel filter would be on my 98 rs and 03 wrx.

well when the car first wouldn't start and the key was in the run position there was a short electrical wine coming from somewhere in the engine bay. After replacing the fuel pump it never cam back so i just dismissed it. any good ideas on checking the voltage versus what it should be?

i have 2 charts i logged while fussing with it they are taken at separate times in the first one Air to fuel ration measured 15 seconds to 29 seconds is with light throttle the other segments are when I give it normal throttle in the stuttering range http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p633/alestor666/screenshot_zpsc8e5ebc9.jpg?t=1397426414 the second one is the timing advance at the start is with blipped throttle when it stutters then it flat lines after letting off the second major dip is at about 23 seconds with a small bit of throttle timing was pulled to almost -15 this isn't normal is it? http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p633/alestor666/screenshot1_zpsb113c137.jpg?t=1397426412 i didn't want to post the images in the post as they where huge

I have not replaced the knock sensor nor did anything visually look wrong but it could still be cracked on the side i cannot see my experience my 98 impreza threw a code when the sensor cracked. If it was leaning out causing it to pull timing it would still be fuel related not the knock sensor tho?

So the battle still continues Replaced plugs and wires still no luck. when watching the timing advance and the torque app right when it stutters the timing jump from the normal idle of about 15 degrees advanced to any where from -9 to -2 soon as it passes that point jumps back up to 15-20. So is the car detecting a knock at low RPMS and just pulling the timing like crazy? Here is a video i took https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xhoonBNixg

wasnt able to get ahold of my uncle with the pressure gauge..... did pull the plugs saw a bit of oil seaping through the spark plug seals replaced those and plugs made zero difference still stutters and chokes when hit with full throttle or any amount of reasonable throttle from idle any thing over about 2,500 rpms it doesn't stutter from. Tried running the tourqe app on my phone with it just to see if i could find anything realy noticable aside from the the o2 sensor curves didnt realy match what I see on my other cars seemed more stable and flat then my wrx with very little changes. Was listening to the injectors with a screw driver to the ear could hear them all fireing sounded okay. any chance the pressure regulator by the firewall could cause the issues?

aftremarket airtex unit I replaced my fuel pump in my 98 rs with an airtex bout a year ago and had no problems with it. I will try to get a fuel pressure gauge on it this weekend

i changed the whole assembly yes 05 the filter is part of that assembly. Where the filter would be under the hood has two items that look like pressure regulators.

okay so I just put the new new fuel pump in fired right up. If i causualy increase throttle it runs fine but if i hit the throttle fast it kinda chokes before reving up. Is it possible that my new plugs have been fouled just replaced them before winter? or is there something else i can check?

that would be very rude but no the gas tank smells like normal (never heard of bleaching a tank just sugar in it). The connector looks perfect no discoloration or deformation.

just an update tested the harness from the car got 12v tested pin 5/6 with a direct power of 12v pump made a click but would not turn. Returned for a replacement. Should be in tomorrow hopefully before I have to go to work.

i replaced the entire assembly since the gauge was being wiped out as well. This time the gauge still works but no wine from the pump after being driven for a day with many on off cycles then one drive to actual work and it doesnt start back up nor does the pump make any noise

okay so now I have the car back home with the key in run I can hear the relay in the passenger foot well click over but the pump never moves what pins can I feed direct power to on the pump to check it ?

no trucks available tonight have to go back in The morning hopefully I think of somethingbefore then

so the 15a fuse labled fuel pump is fine any other ones that would cause the fuel pump to not come on at all short of a dead fuel pump having the car towed home 40 miles away

I did not after clearing codes it never returned I'm out with the car now the fuel pump is totally silent no wine trying to find a blown fuse

okay after pulling the pump that looked like a large complicated bucket compared to what I'm use to in my impreza I opted to replace and hope that was it. the car started after about 5-6 primes no problem drove around town and to work. started just fine 8 hrs later. this morning when starting the rpms dropped for a second and then returned to normal. so I sent her on her way to work with my gf and after she stopped for coffe it would not start again. so I have to drive 45 min after work tonight to see if I can coax one more start out and get it home. as for rodent damage a few months back they chewed the firewall insulation I immediately set traps every day didn't notice any other damage

did not check fuses yet will deffinetly in the morning. didn't think they would be blown since it was moving fuel when i pulled the line and turned the key to the run position. I do actualy have the pump out of the car as i was hopping something obvious would jump out at me but this assembly is nothing like my 98 rs what could i look for?

My grilfriends 05 legacy refused to start this morning. engine turns and you can get it to fire once but wont run. i pulled the codes and got p0108 and p0463 the car had no engine lights prior to this morning. p0108 comes back as Map pressure circuit high and p0463 fuel level voltage high The fuel gauge appeared to work till 2-3 attempts to start the vehicle then that dropped to zero. there is fuel in the tank, in fact its full the car was just filled up the night before. Apparently after filling up the car ran a bit rough at slow speeds but made it home. Unlike my older subarus the MAP sensor is not on the strut tower. So p0108 is refering to the sensor in the intake by the airfilter? is there a way to test if this is bad. I can't find any vacume leaks or disconected hoses/wires. I pulled the line before the engine and turned the key foreward some fuel gushed out not a crazy amount so I am getting fuel and the pump is running. Spark plugs where done about 3 months ago. Should i order a new MAP sensor or blame the fuel pump getting "weak"?