zombieforce
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Everything posted by zombieforce
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I have two old screwdriver s with rounded edges I use for popping out seals. They work great and dont scratch cam or crank journals. I would inspect everything first with belt and covers off. If the seals arent leaking, dont worry do them next time. Its low enough mileage that you will be ok most likely. Worst case you have to pull belt and do it again in 15k or something like that. Oil pump isnt a big deal to reseal at all. No real skill needed there just the right tools. Take yourntime use the appropriate timing marks and double check yourself and you will be fine.
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We always put new on front, its from ba k when my boss my shop foreman for honda he did it that way 20 years ago he aint changing now. I put tires where they are going to keep you safest. Not where the person up front tells me. I dont care what a customer thinks. Its my job on the line not theirs. If they dont like it , they can learn to rotate their own tires.
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I have put tons of gmb pumps on ej engines and not had any issues. Only t belt issues I have had was a dayco roller kit tensioner bolt broke clean off in the block and took out the valves on both heads.
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Check the fuse for the ignition coil.
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What if I teed into the vacuum line for the map sensor and hooked it to the egr solenoid so that when it opens egr solenoid it takes vacuum off the map sensor and lets it go to atmosphere?
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And there it was .....p0400 staring me right in the face. He said "I heard you been looking for me . Here I am what you gonna do abound it?" I told him I was gonna rig up some vacuum lines and make him go away forever.
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Well the cel is on again and my scanner is at work. Im not sure which code I would rather see, knock sensor code or egr .
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They survived. Havent you seen the commercial? No one gets hurt in a subaru! seriously though, glad shes ok.
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Wonder what the ecu part number is? Its one little problem after another that I am slowly sorting through. Its 3 different engines all pieced together as one .
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I have had my scanner with me and plugged in since starting the car. Nothing pending and the only code setti g so far was knock sensor which I found out is setti g because it keeps working itself loose. So I replaced bolt with a longer one.
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Everytime I read something like this it amazes me at how sensitive these cars are to such minute things as a t belt roller. In my 10 plus years as a pro mechanic I have do e maybe two honda belt rollers ever. Almost every suby I mess with needs them done though or didnt get them done in time. Glad you found the issue.
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Well so far no egr codes or evap codes. Only an externally leaking injector and a knock sensor code. 40 miles driven si ce first start up yesterday.
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Have the car all hooked up and ready to go. Goi g to get it up and running first then see what codes I am deali g with. I have the egr solenoid plugged in and also the evap solenoid. No vacuum lines hooked to we ither of them until I can figure out what needs to go where.
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I work on lots of Honda odysseys and they will make noise like hebis describing when you really get down on the brakes . its just a lot of vehicle to stop. We usually just tell people to deal with it or brake earlier. Even with factory pads I have heard it so its just the nature of the beast. With his outback being lighter I doubt he will have any issues.
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Wearever ceramics. They do pretty well my favorite pads are made by a company called pbr. They are a semi metallic and are called metal masters. They have good bite on the rotors but we dont use them because they can make a bit of dust.
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We have used all different kinds of pads and rotors at my shop. Currently we are using wearever rotors from advance auto parts and getting our brake pads from another supplier. We had good results with the adaptive one pads from napa until they raised the price on them. This was our standard setup for pretty much anything japanese we worked on. Only quit using napa rotors because we had too many with a shake right out of the box.
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Well I already spent too much for a non egr manifold and then I sandblasted it and had it powder coated. So im ki da stuck with it is there a different ecu I can plug in to eliminate it looking for egr?
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I am going to use the 2.5 harness anyways all the ecu is seeing is open and close for the valve? I could do that pretty easily.
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So I am swapping in a non egr 2.2 into my 98 forester. Bought all non egr parts thinking that manual transmission cars didnt have egr.well come to find out mine did. Now that I wont have egr I want to find a way to fool the ecu into thinking its working or find a way to get past it. Are there any obd 2 cars without egr I can get an ecu from? Or is there a way to do it and not have a check en gine light on? I live in a non emission state but the light will drive me crazy.
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Buy a motorcycle /atv jack from harbor freight. Works great for trans work o. The ground
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Yeah I guess thats right. Im stuck thinki g about my jet ski engines any less than 180 psi and you can feel the loss of power
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Yes they can I have done it when I was chasing a misfire on an xt engine. Are there any cam crank correlation codes ? I had an intake gear put on that had an egg shaped dowel pin hole so even tho it was basically in time it was off just enough to cause mis fires down low. Ran fine in the revs. Just had a bad idle. Also isnt 140 psi compression a bit low for pistons?
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This is one time where I say have a pro do it only because you wont have a way of recovering refrigerant at home. Even if you want to do it yourself at least let a shop evac and charge system and you swap the seals.
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Auto like I said I used the regular 2.5 multi layer gaskets so compression was kinda high. Had to use premium and didnt really feel that it was worth the hassle and time and money spent. I think I thought it would have been closer to a wrx power wise but it wasnt
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Match the block and I used the regular 2.5 gaskets. Mine got about 18mpg