misledxcracker

Thanks GD, looks like I'm gonna have to find one... and I don't think it'll be very easy.

Its been leaking gear oil for quite a while now, but when I drained it there were about two and a half quarts left in it.I'm assuming I need a whole different transmission then? No way I could split this transmission and possibly fix it? I can't find a tranny, let alone 2WD for any less than $200. How much do these trannys weigh approximately? I gotta hurry and get this thing on the road, stuck in New Mexico and its no fun...

what I'm not getting is that the speedo works just like it would with a broken CV... and it has no problem shifting into gears... is there anything I should be checking?

Not the ball bearing, but the one that holds everything in place. The seal was also borked. I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't work once I put it back together: just noticed there's metal all over the magnetized drain plug...

I figured it out! My diff isn't toast... Apparently using a bolt/nut in place of the roll pin on the axle isn't such a hot idea... The nut and bolt apparently fell off somewhere, allowing the DOJ end of the axle to repeatedly slam into the shaft seal until it finally knocked the bearing sideways! The shaft now turns like it should, one going one way and the opposite side going the other way. No grinds, no thumping noise and no binding. No metal in the gear oil! I think it'll be fine

Just read another thread similar to mine... I did get a loud pop then it seriously felt like the tire went flat. Managed to drive it this way for five miles then I lost all gears. The speedometer goes up JUST like a broken CV would cause. Already over halfway pulling the transmission.... I'm really hoping I'm not wasting my time pulling it. Neither of the axles have split or deformed boots and they're both less than a year old. It seriously seems like it wants to somewhat catch when I wiggle the CVs on the DOJ area... maybe the output shaft bearing(s) went? I have a strong feeling the diff didn't exactly grenade just because it let me get so far after it happened...

I am going to drain the remainder of the gear oil and check that out... and probably take the retainer off the passenger side and see if I can see anything out of whack... ...if it did grenade I'm going to have to find a transmission in Albuquerque where I know nobody.... joy

I meant to say an output shaft bearing. I can probably take video of what I'm talking about once this phone charges a bit more. Any suggestions are appreciated!

Hey everyone, been off the forum a while... I have an '87 XT, 2WD 5MT, N/A MPFI... almost 190K miles Anyhow, so I drove out of Los Angeles and got to Albuquerque when I heard a LOUD bang noise and it surely seemed like I blew a CV for the millionth time, as the car was shaking and rattling like hell... but I somehow managed to pull into a parking lot. Now I don't have any gears whatsoever, not even reverse. The best way I can describe the noise is it sounded like marbles were in the transmission. I was well aware that the axle seals on the tranny were leaking and they had been for a while. I took off the axles to see if the output shafts move and apparently they do not. I can feel a little bit of play at the shafts. What's crazy is the speedometer moves like a typical axle failure but I don't see a single thing wrong with the axles. OK now if I have it running and in gear, I can wiggle the DOJ around and it sounds like a clanking/popping noise but doesn't move the shafts. I can put it in any gear without any resistance or odd noises. Could it be possible that an output shaft?

When I reseal an oil pump, I use wheel bearing grease, as it's kinda "heavy". NO on the RTV

Once you get it adjusted, you may want to mark it somehow so you can re-position it again if needed be. Kinda like marking a distributor I guess.

Checked that pin, Naru you were absolutely right. Car runs and drives now. What did I do? Trusting my instincts to a point, I went and yanked another CAS out of an Isuzu Trooper (third CAS) and the XT fired up no problem! Thank you Cougar and Naru for helping me out, at least now I know a lot more about wiring and such Now watch the Jag take a dump on me.... LOL

Clean all the grounds you can find (the FSM has this information, you can find it on subaruxt.com) and also maybe clean up the coil bracket connection a little. Clean up the coolant temperature sensor contacts (on the intake, not the radiator) and inspect the wiring that plugs into it.... may need to replace that! The main wiring harness runs under the carpet/seat on the passenger side, it may be in your best interest to check out the crimp connections on the harness under the sill plate, repair as needed. There's also a ground under there... There are some things that interchange with the XT but very few. I have an '87 with MPFI and without a turbo. Cool little cars, get tons of compliments, but oh boy are they problematic.... still trying to figure out WHY Subaru put the ECU in the trunk!

I know how to swap the CAS out of the distributor. Subaru is not the only one that uses these rather specific CAS units.... Mercury Villagers and Isuzu Troopers do as well. Wow, my Jag does not have a single issue, yet my XT is parked and inoperable..... Should be the other way around! 91 octane and a straight 6 really kills me on gas!

I have a 2WD MPFI XT.... I went for a Sachs kit from the local auto parts store, it was around $100 and came with practically everything needed. I saw that Brute Force kit... decided it was "too cheap" for my liking. And just a reminder, be careful on whom does the machining on the flywheel if you choose to do so!

I'm trying to figure out what the deal is with those four relays in the dash and possibly figure out a way to test them.... I'm also trying to figure out which other wires I need to start checking out. I'll just hook up a test light to pin 24 with the ECU unplugged and see what happens, I'm sure you're right though, it'll probably come on while I'm "cranking" the motor... Any other ideas/suggestions welcomed immensely; I am gonna start trying to decipher this XT FSM the best I can.

The ignition switch is getting 12V to it. Well, one of the four wires gets 12V, the others do not. So should I check for voltage at pin 24 while cranking then? I also noticed one of the four relays behind the radio area was slightly hot while messing with the ECU plugs.... but no clue which is which... Thank you Cougar and Naru for helping me out here, this is a PITA!

Pin 24 is getting zero volts, but the two others are getting 12V. And since pin 24 comes from the ignition switch... maybe that's it?

OK, gonna wrap the wires back up, put all that back together, and get crackin' on the ECU pinout voltage check.

I took the tape off the wiring harness and found two crimped connections. Problem? They look CLEAN. Like they were repaired at some point in time, absolutely clean. Ahhh

OK I'll go back out there in a minute and start tearing the tape/foamy crap off and investigate. The ground under the passenger seat carpet looked REALLY nice, like it had been recently cleaned or something. It was also a tad loose, so I tightened it. Made no difference, of course. I'm really beginning to think that digging through the wiring is not going to fix the car, I think this thing's destined for the junkyard, a new $200 windshield later :-\

I tore out the passenger seat, the sill plate and the carpet, and could not find any crimped connections at all. Am I missing something? I really want to get this car running!

That's relieving, thanks Alright, I'll go look for those pictures and figure out exactly where those connections you're talking about are...

OK, now I plug in the black connectors, put the key in the on position, and I get... 11, 23, 32, 33, 35, 42, 51 I think I may be retiring this one.... this problem is a bit too much. All I did was drive the thing... get it running again and the friggin heater kills it for good... Seen too many XT ECU failure stories and I am frankly tired of sinking money into what's seemingly becoming a money pit...

All fuses seem to check out OK, none blown, checked for voltage on both ends of them all. Like you said, some required the key to be in the on position, but checked out.