misledxcracker

I used to have a '91 XT6 2wd... now I have an '87 XT 2wd Nowhere near Indiana

Took out the thermostat, and now no overheat

Note taken on the water pump shaft... Thanks for saving me a headache What about interchanging radiators? I'd like to replace it for preventive maintenance, but seriously, $300something for a radiator?

I figure yanking the t-stat and seeing what happens would be the easiest (and cheapest.) I really hope that's all it is... If I need a new water pump, can I use... say, an SPFI EA82 water pump? I don't know exactly what interchanges... What about radiators? I'll buy new if need be. Hard to search for XT related things...

I'm going to try to run it without a t-stat, see if it alleviates the problem. I will eventually order an OEM t-stat online. Hope that's what it is...

So I picked up a '87 XT GL 2wd 5spd today with an MPFI EA82. It starts up just fine, but the minute you rev it up, just up to 2k, the temp gauge goes up to the H really fast. I shut it off right before it got to the line before the H, and felt the radiator, it was pretty much cold. The engine sure wasn't cold though The radiator is full of coolant. I don't notice any mixing of fluids. I ran it without the radiator cap and the water is stagnant; it just sits there. The hoses get hot, just not the radiator. I'm confused, I've never had a radiator that's not hot anywhere I touch. This is all while parked, I can't drive it yet because the front hub is stripped out. Where should I start?

I highly doubt the Legacy's automatic transmission would fit... The D/R is your best bet. There's the option of a 3AT but I wouldn't trust one with that much power.

They had SPFI in some '85-'86 models... 2 wheel drive automatic transmissions only though I think, maybe? There is also a difference in MAF's if I'm not mistaken, one was a flapper and one was a hotwire... your easiest bet is a Weber, as long as you don't have to deal with California emissions.

I'm going to be getting a '78 EA71 DL 2WD 5-speed wagon this weekend I figured out most of my own questions, on the list is an internal-VR alternator, a Weber 32/36, and an EA81 distributor and coil. Also, a tach and some aftermarket gauges, dang DL trim So, this thing's sat 15 years... it only has 138K on it. Should this thing prove reliable (like my old EA81 did) or should I just yank the EA71 and just do the swap immediately? Not looking for power, looking for reliability and ability to cruise and road-trip every once in a while (never really need to exceed 55-60MPH) Are parts still available? I read and know SOA parts are becoming harder to find (or impossible) but... can I still pick up a water pump at Autozone, know what I mean? Fel-Pro head sets still being made, etc??? I'll probably have more questions, most likely many more after I take possession, it's rust-free and straight as an arrow Thanks!

Cleaning the governor can resurrect a transmission that won't move? I had governor problems and it was just extremely reluctant to shift out of 1st in Drive. I'm buying an '86 wagon with a supposed "dead" 3AT, that would be nice if the governor may make it work...

Too bad it's not easily accomplished to retro-fit SPFI into a turbo car... that's what I'd do. Or maybe another EA82 with a Weber? Seems like all the EA82T's had more cool options and stuff... just less reliable motors

Long post.. Trying to give as much info as I can... Well, I got a Weber for my Brat (1983 3AT Hydro) and she's running well after about 1,000 miles (minus the choke not working) plus, I'm getting 22-24 MPG with a 4WD 3AT, while I WAS getting around 13-15 with the Hitrashi Now, I have another couple issues I have. I blocked off the ASV pipe on the driver's side with a quarter. However, I have a canister (what IS that thing? ASV right?) on the passenger's side that has a pipe connected to the side of the head. All I did was stick a huge bolt in the vacuum line coming from the canister when I put the Weber on. Is this suitable, or is there a more proper way to block off that canister, or do I actually plug it in somewhere??? Not trying to roast my motor... Which leads me to the next issue... Idle is dead on, but still kinda shakes... I'm getting a horrible ticking noise from what seems to be the exhaust. The ticking increases with RPMs until about three grand, and usually unheard on the highway even without a stereo. I'm guaranteeing I have an exhaust leak, probably on both sides of the y-pipe before the cat... As for oil pressure, it sits on around 50-60 PSI on the highway and I'd say 40-50 in the city. Drops to maybe around 25 when it's idling warm. Leaks from a few spots, I'm sure if I resealed everything the pressure would be better than it is. Anyhow, getting rid of that ticking would be superb And last but not least... I threw a compression tester on the Brat... compression was around 110-120 in cylinders 1 and 4... and around 140-150 in the other two. Like valves are stuck open? Or could it be something else? Maybe I did the test wrong? I did use one of those cheapy old-school testers that you just stick in the plug hole... no screw-on attachment. Nonetheless it drives well and I'm making great progress getting her back together

See if the tensioner is seized...

Yeah, it's definitely a Hitachi. My manifold has vacuum ports that the other one I got doesn't have... Maybe it's because mine's a feedback manifold and the other isn't... i don't know. So basically I can remove the metering ports off the manifold if I wanted to? How about those two small black "canisters" on the driver's side that seem to go to those metering ports? Can I remove those too?

Before I start... I really wish I could afford a Weber but I can't at the moment And SPFI is a future option, just not right now... Alright, so my old carb (hitachi feedback) took a dump. The carburetor is pretty simple IMO... but mine wasn't worth a rebuild because of shaft play, and I absolutely HATE feedback carburetor systems. I want to unplug the ECU and throw it at a wall as hard as possible So last night I got a hold of another EA81 manifold, and a Hitachi carb that looks pretty much the same as my old one. However the two manifolds are different, so it seems. According to the dude that sold me the carb and manifold, it was on an '81 wagon and was non-feedback. He told me there was no computer, but it sure seems like the sensors on the intakes match pretty close... Here's the questions, what ALL can I remove from the intake to clean up the clutter? I read GD's Hitachi threads, I don't have an AAV and I'm unclear about the removal of metering port vacuum control system... I've read that only a few vacuum lines were necessary to run the non-feedback... Help me in my confusion... It's storming, and I'm craving the mud!

Okay, I ordered a new water pump and a radiator. I got a thermostat as well, but the auto parts store said there is no thermostat gasket made for it Is that true? I can't tell which hose the oil came from... there's one hose that leads to a can.... What is that can? It's very dirty inside, has three clips that hold the top on... And I can't find the PCV filter, what and where exactly is that? I've never heard of one of those..

Do the EA81 radiators that are supposedly made for manual transmission applications have the auto transmission cooler fittings on the side? I've been looking for a radiator (yes, i have an automatic) and I can't seem to find one any cheaper than around $200 that's "made for an automatic". Any ideas? Any good sites to get good, but not so expensive radiators? I'd prefer to order it online so it'll be shipped to me, but I want to make sure I get the right one that'll work with my transmission. Man, it's been a pain trying to get a EA81 radiator... Any problems I'm going to encounter buying a water pump? Last time I bought a water pump, it was for an early Ford 302... that was a headache And last but not least... what happened to me on the freeway yesterday... I was going fairly fast on the freeway, getting it up to 5.5k RPM's... and out of nowhere the oil gauge went down some, so I pulled over. Oil managed to get into the air filter housing, and oil leaked all over the top of the block and was bubbling/sizzling... I've never seen that before. Kinda looked like it was coming out of the block! The Brat has had a leaky radiator... so I'm also not sure if I ran it out of water or not, the temperature gauge didn't go up to H. I think a half gallon topped it off, maybe a little more. From what I've noticed so far, the temp gauge works. It had stayed at a tad over half. Once she cooled down a bit and I topped off the oil and water, drove off without a problem, got home safely. However, the oil gauge seems to be staying at a lower pressure than it used to. It'll still go to 75 PSI when cold, however. Doesn't smoke at all, don't think there's no oil in the water or vice versa, the oil looks horrible and I had just replaced it. The PCV valve is replaced along with vacuum lines. What gives? Did I toast my motor???

When I replaced all the vacuum lines on my Brat recently, (craptachi, feedback) I cut them all open, and I only ran into one hose with a pellet, it shows you on the vacuum diagram under the hood which one has the pellet. I believe they have to be pointed the correct way also, so make sure you do that. The EA82 may vary though I doubt it, I had one with a feedback carb, but never got into replacing vacuum lines because the carb itself was shot, however it should be the same concept. HTH.... if I'm right anyhow

Wow, on my sedan I have a plug just like that that's also disconnected, and it had me baffled. Thanks!

For the oil issue, make sure you have the updated PCV lines (look that up to make sure which is which) and replace the PCV valve itself with an OEM valve. Should clear up the oil in the air filter.

OMFG I'll gladly pay $400 for those. If they dont sell by November, I'm all for it. Them rims would make my sedan look effin NICE. OP, swap to 5 lug, opens up your wheel options like no other, but you still wont be able to fit 20's on it

Um hey, sorry, it WAS a joke. Hence the little dancing banana!

chop the springs! chop the springs!!!

Well, so I finally picked up a D/R wagon. It's an '87, Hitachi'd. When I bought it, it had sat for six years in Kingman, AZ. All I had to really do to get it on the road is put some brake fluid in it, and gas. I've put 500 miles on it so far. Gets 26MPG at 75MPH, and I haven't even checked the spark plugs, let alone anything else really. Anyway, to the questions... 1. When I push in the clutch to throw the car out of gear to stop, the car dies. Bump starts right back up no problem, but this is becoming a hassle, and for some reason I think bump starting may not be the best idea. Why in the world would it only die when the clutch is pushed in?! 2. I took the car on a very curvy mountain highway (outside of Oatman, AZ... Route 66) and played some rally-car. Well, seeing the car sat for six years, I expected the rubber items to be crappy. I blew ALL four axle boots, and both tie-rod end boots, within 5 miles of playing around. Are all of these boots available that are an OEM exact fit? I don't really care for generic stuff, never seem to have luck with any of it. 3. According to the service records I have, the shifter bushings were replaced about 5,000 miles before the car was parked. But the shifter still has a LOT of slop. Should I just replace the bushings (maybe they dried up too?) or is there something about the 5-speeds I should know about? 4. I'm getting a HORRIBLE rattling noise under the car by the shifter. I checked the heat shield on the cat, looks just fine. What else should I be looking for? Thanks for the help in advance! Need to get the car ready for my "vagabond excursion" throughout the southwest

hey man, why didn't you drop an EA81 into it? Then it would be HALF old-gen!