misledxcracker

That blue wagon looks just like mine, minus the touring package and the wagon wheels. Has a messed up hood, white grill, tinted windows. The paint isn't nearly as nice as that one, though. I wish mine had the raised roof, would be great for a camping wagon

Sweet! Thanks GD!

Even if my carb is feedback (I believe it is, I have an EGR light) I can still remove all of that junk?

Why even bother?

I'm gonna have to look into that, at least until I have the time and the courage to do the SPFI swap. Thanks!

So I got a hold of an '87 wagon. As a matter of fact, it's D/R 4WD First 4WD Soob I've owned out of seven. It tears up the desert sand! Haven't got it stuck in the dunes yet! Problem is... it's Hitachi carbed. There's two broken valves resulting in mean vacuum leaks, it doesnt idle when its cold whatsoever, barely idles warm, runs really lean, the timing is wacky, and there's probably other issues that I haven't even noticed yet. I have two other '87s that are SPFI, one has no title so it's eventually scrap metal, and the other has a cracked head. I like SPFI way more than the carb. I have Snowman's conversion manual, and I'm pretty sure I can get the intake manifold on but the wiring is what scares me, and I don't have much experience doing wiring in the first place. Can someone help a wiring noob? When I read the manual, I draw blanks.

I say nada on the ABS or airbags. Other than that, yeah, it's feasible.

Remove thermostat, pressure check the cooling system, that's how i do it anyway. You'll find your leak. You dont have to remove the AC compressor to get the covers off. Nor do you have to remove the starter. If it were me, I'd first reseal the oil pump, then do the crankshaft seal, and the cam seals. Replace the water pump if you don't know the last time it was replaced. Idler sprocket thing sounds like the inner belt tensioner, yes, replace that. They tend to seize at the wrong time...

I've never owned a set of Pugs, but I recall hearing that you need some sort of special lugnuts, with a washer, I believe. May be wrong though. Oh yeah, make sure you got the correct thread pitch, of course. I've had an instance where I used standard lugnuts on a metric studs... the wheel fell off, literally

I had a TPS fail at 95K on my old SPFI coupe, and it gave me mixed readings also. But in my case, when the TPS did flake out to the point that it was hesitating bad, the CEL came on, throwing the TPS code. Way too expensive new, junkyard or buy off of someone else for sure.

Man, in the future (even after I get the EA82 going) I'm probably going to do this... very good idea.

It shortens the outer belt's life. The AC compressor pulley does not turn, no matter how tight you tighten the belt by itself. In turn, the AC will never have a chance in working if that inner belt is gone. I also noticed my power steering pump started growling after 6 months of running with one belt, but it may not have been related. Could just get another, or put new bearings in your old one. But be careful, that pulley shatters easily :-\

You can use ANY radio pretty much, as long as you know the color codes.

Hella Supertones, most definately.

I have some SPFI parts... what all do you need to do the conversion? I may be able to help you out... I have three complete intakes

Just do what I said before. I'm sure you've heard of preventive maintenance, right? These transmissions are finicky, I know first hand. You probably don't have to Seafoam the intake, but in my case anyway, the ATF didnt just go away after replacing the modulator, and Seafoam did clean it all out. Make sure that you let the vacuum line going to the modulator drain real good before you put it back on, if ATF got in there, that's a hose where it likes to sit. Change the filter and fluid. It's not hard. Seriously, it's not. Your transmission will last longer and be happier if you do so. Mine had under 100K and the filter was TRASH. I'm also going to do it to the 200K sedan I have. Yes, the gear oil weight is 80/90. Do NOT use a torch on the plug. Use a socket (I forget the size) and a breaker bar, maybe even a cheater bar for more leverage. It'll come off. Check the governor. Don't disassemble and clean it, since it's shifting OK. But, apple coring of the governor gear happens gradually, and once it gets to a point, well, let's just say you don't want to be in the middle of nowhere when this happens. Hence you check it now, and make sure it's not in the process of eating itself away. Plus then you'll know if it's a nylon or metal gear, and if it's metal I wouldn't worry about it. If you break the gasket, big deal, just put a TINY bit of RTV on the mating surface and put the cover back on. BTW, he WAS kidding about you messing it up... well, in just checking it anyway The kick down solenoid is right beside the governor cover. If it's kicking down when you hit the gas hard, you're OK, don't worry about that. It's not behind the cup. ATF is behind that cup. If you want a quick fix, just replace the modulator and call it a day. I'm only telling you this stuff because I figure you want to drive the car long-term. If not, disregard what I'm saying.

$55? for a temp fix? why not spend a tiny bit more and just fix the problem totally? You ARE kidding me right? oh, and +1 on the compression test, for sure.

Talk to supernova... he's smogged his SPFI hatch. Yes, it WILL pass smog in California, because it's been done before. Why yours is failing? Heck, I dont know... first time I fail I take a trip to Arizona and well

1. In addition to checking everything that's already mentioned, check out the cat converter. I didn't have heat shields on the coupe, and it still made the rattling noise, but never in Park or Neutral. Finally took down the cat (for a very short test) and no noise. 2. 185x70 fits, but I don't see any gains coming from that. I'd run the 175's myself. 3. Check out the suspension... check for loose ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. If everything is up to par, well, that's an 80s Subaru for ya. 4. Leave them off. Take the side ones off too, and store them somewhere. Heck, throw them away if you want. Much easier to check, tension, and re-install the belts. 5. Remove the cluster, remove the bulb, reinstall. 6. That sounds a little low, I averaged 25-27MPG in my coupe doing 65MPH. 23 or so in the city, but not too much traffic.

See, I was right about swappin them plates But watch me ending up having to.. +1 on the vacuum leak issue.... I replace ALL of the vacuum lines under the hood of any car I acquire. Can, and most likely will save a headache or two, maybe more.

Wrong forum. And no, they shouldnt.

I'd say get that alternator removed, and tested. Freaky things happen when the alternator is on the fritz...

Well... Make positively sure that you put the spark plug wires in firing order... Take the MAF off the intake hose, and clean the two TINY wires with carb cleaner, but be VERY careful not to break the wires. Then check the TPS with a multimeter. Make sure it has proper resistance/continuity specs. The procedure is here somewhere. Look up some of my old posts. Check ALL of your vacuum hoses. Good time to spend $10 and replace them all. You'll thank yourself in the long run, trust me. Do a D-Check. Get any codes it's storing and check those problems out. Again, the procedure is here somewhere. After that, it SHOULD run better... but not no V8 Chevy by any means.

Why bother pulling the transmission? Split it.

I have a running truck (well a big Chevy version of the Brat, kinda ) so all is good there, I'm cool with a little project. A head job (valves if needed, piston if also needed worst case scenario) doesnt bother me at all. It's just FINDING the parts out here is so difficult and shipping isnt an option because I don't have a forklift or a business address. $79 extra for residential? No thanks And plus, I like the idea of having that 2WD 5-speed to throw in too... $300 for a 5 speed swap alone at the JY in these parts would run about the same... plus the gas in the 10MPG truck to get to the junkyard 70 miles away (BTW you coulda drove that Legacy home no problem, if it's leaking from the rack. It's not going to blow right then and there... Ran on a dry rack for 800 miles straight, filled it up, it leaked it out within a day, refilled, drove 800 miles back.)