
misledxcracker
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Everything posted by misledxcracker
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All depends on how bad the scoring is.
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Used cars are a gamble in the first place :-p One head should be OK as there's high compression numbers on that side. (drivers side) The other head? I don't know, I can get another head for cheap on here, or other sources... it's just hard getting an engine out here. PLUS... my sedan is a 3AT... the donor wagon in question has a 5 speed and a good clutch! That right there is a selling point itself, IMO. There's another wagon ('87 GL 4WD) for $650 that "needs a timing belt" which isnt for sure if thats what it is, and another one for $1200 that runs, but an '88 DL (actually my FIRST subaru I owned, that someone else bought) but c'mon now... $1200 for a DL 3AT sedan... ....then again, if he'd take payments on it... it WAS my first subaru... hmmm... i may have to check into it.
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The sedan motor had worse compression, had bad valves, bad rings, bad everything. Milkshake, oil raised the compression on it, it was just horrible. I knew the heads were toast, so I scrapped them, and later the block after I found out IT was scrap. This one just has low compression on one cylinder. Putting oil in the cylinder does not raise the compression, either. Oil looks fine, but it has no water, because it has no radiator. How is that the same?
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Bump... I'm real tempted to buy this donor wagon... but that 50PSI reading on the one cylinder (with the other being higher) is still scaring me. If it's just a timing belt or head gasket, maybe even a stuck valve, I can deal with that, but ahhh... Bore rust... the car hasnt had a radiator on it for a long while, and seeing how hot it gets out here, I'm betting the water evaporated. Doubt the bore rust theory. I've been reading about carbon deposits (the car has sat for years) and maybe it's just carbon in there?
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Some tips on modulator installation: (what I did anyway) Make sure the modulator o-ring isnt warped, or nasty looking. Replace it, if so. The o-ring was like 79 cents IIRC. Also, don't lose the rod that "pokes" into the transmission and the modulator. Without that... well, just make sure you reinstall it. Seafoam the intake after replacing the modulator, if you can afford to. Now's also a good time to check and clean the governor, change the transmission filter and pan gasket, and put a tiny bit of Trans-X in with the new ATF. Last but not least, change the gear oil. I used Royal Purple myself. After that, transmission will be the best... it can be.
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BRAT registration, car or truck?
misledxcracker replied to MilesFox's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
In Cali they use dyno rollers and a computer everywhere... -
BRAT registration, car or truck?
misledxcracker replied to MilesFox's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
A truck. A dangerous weapon too! -
Bosco, I know what you mean about the EA's having problems (having owned three of them and sinking major money into them ) but if I buy this wagon, I have a manual swap that I've always wanted, plus a motor that supposedly ran well upon arrival, said the dealer guy. He's not one to swindle either, he's well known in this small town for being a good guy, but just having too high of prices Could there really be any other real reason as to why this motor has as low of compression on that one cylinder like it does? If it's a valve dropped and at worst smacked the piston, I have spare good valves, good piston, good ring, and anything else. I already tore the sedan's donor block and heads apart, because they were both trash. So I have the parts to fix it. Some people told me that ATF in the oil could free up a stuck valve if thats what it is... it DID sit with Arizona water in it, which has a large amount of calcium in it and it has sat with a full tank of bad gas for three years. I really need suggestions... but if its honestly what has been said before, tell me how I can fix it.
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Reusing my old thread. I saw a wagon nearby for sale ($300 with no title, SPFI 5-spd) and asked if I could do a compression check on it, to see if the motor is any good. #1 was 125psi, #2 was 50psi #3 was 130psi, and #4 was 125psi. The wagon has supposedly sat for three years, without running. Is this motor usable? If not, I'm going to part out and eventually junk the sedan, and get another vehicle... there's no Subarus around here otherwise. And the original block in the sedan has blown rings Oil seeping all over the cylinder walls... Argh.
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thought you might want a laugh...
misledxcracker replied to subaru_noob's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
On my El Camino, I used to have Cragar SS mags, with spinner knock-offs. Man, when those knock-offs are loose.... -
OK so this is how you treat me?
misledxcracker replied to beataru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Isn't it funny when the problem is so simple? Glad you got the car running. -
Looks great.
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3AT governor woes... help!
misledxcracker replied to Cold Chuck's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You sure about the radius rod plates? Thought that only applied for EA81's... Though yes, the crossmembers are different... I'm going to be doing the same swap myself, on my sedan soon here. And I've never even ran the automatic it has in it now! Not worth the time or money. -
Emissions Failed. Suggestions?
misledxcracker replied to PhxVigo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Bring 'er on out to Mohave County...