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Toadspit

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hutchinson , KS
  • Vehicles
    1998 Outback, 2011 Outback 2.5i Limited

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  1. I know this is an old post but I had to drop thanks for the tips because someone had always helped me here in the past. i yanked the hub out of the assembly trying to use a 5lb slide hammer and the only thing it succeeded in doing is causing some intense bone bruising in my thumbs lol. rhe bolts in about six turns and then hammer was the key. pretty simple too. I even used a 16oz hickory handle hammer and it was a breeze.
  2. I am totally comfortable with my decision to purchase this car. The PO stated many times over that we was glad I showed up. They were stationing to a northeastern air force base , were leaving in two weeks, just had a baby and can’t take two cars on base. I told him that I felt like I stole it and he repeatedly told me how much I was helping them too.
  3. Well I’m sure I’m in for an interesting venture with this one. I did however have a small win so far. All of what I was thinking was a transmission problem was cleared up by removing the throttle body and hitting it with some CRC throttle body cleaner and a nylon brush. I drove it around for about 2 hours afterwards. I just got it home and it runs like a new one. I am going to go ahead and change the fluid in it the day after tomorrow though. For $3k I’ll make whatever repairs I need to make on it.
  4. It doesn’t seem to have the stall issue, just the stutter I the low in under low load. That only lasts for a fraction of a second . Thanks for the service bulletin. If I have to yank a motor / transmission, it won’t be the first time.
  5. I picked up this beauty in Colorado Springs, temp tagged it in Colorado and drove it home ! 2011 Outback 2.5i Limited, fully loaded ! it has a lunge at low speed/rpm in the simulated first gear range but it it barely noticed except at specific throttle / engine load. I’m thinking that I’ll check the condition of the fluid and decide whether it’s low, worn and foul looking or both before changing the valve body. I currently have no CEL or AT codes posted and no intermittent “Christmas tree” lights. All input, comments and or suggestions are welcome.
  6. Air lock ? I used to have this problem with an ol 96 outback I posted about here several years ago. Once I put the car on ramps and opened the bleeder valves on the radiator I was back in business. I hope you’ve already figured it out good luck
  7. Just to fill those of you in and took the time to provide input on my decision, I did not purchase the above car semi-locally I drove out to Colorado Springs and picked up this beauty for $3k!! 2011 Outback 2.5i limited with all the bells and whistles. It does need a valve body or a fluid change. It has a momentary lunge and low speed/rpm but doesn’t have any other symptoms such as posted CEL
  8. I just spoke with the owner again and he said that the motor was replaced and then the next day it went into limp mode. Also said that a local Subaru shop told him it was the valve body. I think I’m gonna go ahead and get it and just not be mad if it needs a new transmission.
  9. Yes, it’s the CVT. It has about 200,000 miles on it i was thinking I’d just replace the transmission but this forum has been a valuable source of information and idea sharing so I couldn’t not post about it lol.
  10. I am pondering getting this outback. 2011 as stated. The owner says the valve body is in need of replacement. I don’t know these newer transmissions at all so what I need to know is what is the potential that it is more than a valve body ? Should I just plan on replacing the transmission if I make this purchase ?
  11. I’m sure this has already been handled but when I junked the 2.5 in my outback it was locked up tight and a grinder wheel made short work of the block and then it’s pretty easy to remove TC
  12. Misfire in bank three can indicate a bad knock sensor but generally when I have seen performance issues that involved flashing CEL it was either a bad fuel injector or wiring to an injector. You can use alligator clips and wire to run 12v to them from the battery to test or even to back flush them with carburetor cleaner.
  13. I was gonna suggest a bent wheel. I have a 96 legacy wagon that had the same issue
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