Toadspit

I know this is an old post but I had to drop thanks for the tips because someone had always helped me here in the past. i yanked the hub out of the assembly trying to use a 5lb slide hammer and the only thing it succeeded in doing is causing some intense bone bruising in my thumbs lol. rhe bolts in about six turns and then hammer was the key. pretty simple too. I even used a 16oz hickory handle hammer and it was a breeze.

I am totally comfortable with my decision to purchase this car. The PO stated many times over that we was glad I showed up. They were stationing to a northeastern air force base , were leaving in two weeks, just had a baby and can’t take two cars on base. I told him that I felt like I stole it and he repeatedly told me how much I was helping them too.

Well I’m sure I’m in for an interesting venture with this one. I did however have a small win so far. All of what I was thinking was a transmission problem was cleared up by removing the throttle body and hitting it with some CRC throttle body cleaner and a nylon brush. I drove it around for about 2 hours afterwards. I just got it home and it runs like a new one. I am going to go ahead and change the fluid in it the day after tomorrow though. For $3k I’ll make whatever repairs I need to make on it.

It doesn’t seem to have the stall issue, just the stutter I the low in under low load. That only lasts for a fraction of a second . Thanks for the service bulletin. If I have to yank a motor / transmission, it won’t be the first time.

I picked up this beauty in Colorado Springs, temp tagged it in Colorado and drove it home ! 2011 Outback 2.5i Limited, fully loaded ! it has a lunge at low speed/rpm in the simulated first gear range but it it barely noticed except at specific throttle / engine load. I’m thinking that I’ll check the condition of the fluid and decide whether it’s low, worn and foul looking or both before changing the valve body. I currently have no CEL or AT codes posted and no intermittent “Christmas tree” lights. All input, comments and or suggestions are welcome.

Air lock ? I used to have this problem with an ol 96 outback I posted about here several years ago. Once I put the car on ramps and opened the bleeder valves on the radiator I was back in business. I hope you’ve already figured it out good luck

Just to fill those of you in and took the time to provide input on my decision, I did not purchase the above car semi-locally I drove out to Colorado Springs and picked up this beauty for $3k!! 2011 Outback 2.5i limited with all the bells and whistles. It does need a valve body or a fluid change. It has a momentary lunge and low speed/rpm but doesn’t have any other symptoms such as posted CEL

I just spoke with the owner again and he said that the motor was replaced and then the next day it went into limp mode. Also said that a local Subaru shop told him it was the valve body. I think I’m gonna go ahead and get it and just not be mad if it needs a new transmission.

Yes, it’s the CVT. It has about 200,000 miles on it i was thinking I’d just replace the transmission but this forum has been a valuable source of information and idea sharing so I couldn’t not post about it lol.

I am pondering getting this outback. 2011 as stated. The owner says the valve body is in need of replacement. I don’t know these newer transmissions at all so what I need to know is what is the potential that it is more than a valve body ? Should I just plan on replacing the transmission if I make this purchase ?

I’m sure this has already been handled but when I junked the 2.5 in my outback it was locked up tight and a grinder wheel made short work of the block and then it’s pretty easy to remove TC

Misfire in bank three can indicate a bad knock sensor but generally when I have seen performance issues that involved flashing CEL it was either a bad fuel injector or wiring to an injector. You can use alligator clips and wire to run 12v to them from the battery to test or even to back flush them with carburetor cleaner.

I was gonna suggest a bent wheel. I have a 96 legacy wagon that had the same issue

Well that didn't quite go as planned lol

What an interesting journey this has been. I decided to retrace this harness with another meter since I remembered some anomalies I had experienced with my old meter some time back. I was on the verge of either removing the intake, fuel rails and all associated electronics when at the last minute I decided it would be a good idea to be pretty dang sure before I butchered Mt harnesses or replaced it. Turns our that I had an intermittent fault in the #2 fuel injector. Fortunately I kept the ones out of the 2.5 before I trashed it. Due to obvious design differences I have swapped all 4 and this 2.2 is running better than it has since I got it. Timing kit is on the way and I think I'll be good for quite some time to come

Thanks for responding. I think I found my problem just a few minutes ago. I was out ohm tracing the wires from the pulse wire from the injector in question and discovered that the engine side wiring harness seems to have a bad connection that seems to be right at the back side of the 16 pin connector.I have replaced the 2.5 with a 2.2 from a 96 and I still have the engine harness from the 2.5 so maybe I'll get lucky with it. I just glanced over it and I'm not sure without a side by side comparison but I think it will work. Anybody know if all the sensor connectors are the same plug configuration between the two? Since I am not at the shop with it at this time my lighting situation is less than ideal so I can't visually compare until after work tomorrow

98 subaru legacy outback I drove to wichita today and she ran fine all the way there (about 40 or so miles) and everything seemed fine all the way there and most of the way back. I noticed before I made it home that the CEL was on and I read the codes and first it was misfire on #2 . after clearing the codes (I didn't get freeze frame data, I'm a bonehead) I instantly got P0264 I have proper voltage at injector 2 but I am not getting a pulse. I don't have a noid light but I checked a known working injector with the light I have and was able to see the pulse. I was at work while I was trying to sort this out and it got late so I just came home. I'm really hoping it's not the ECM since I'm really strapped for cash right now and driving my gas guzzler van isn't helping any at all. anyone have any suggestions or have run into this before then I'm all ears. Thanks

Thank you. And my all wheel drive is working too. I'm really kind of glad I didn't buy the parts to fix it on the old one now

She finally back on the road. I finished everything up yesterday evening. The yard shipped out my parts Monday and by Tuesday they had been d we delivered to my job about an hour after u left but I was too tired to work on it.

They have agreed to ship the stubs to me at their expense. I hope they ship in a timely manner. They must not scrap too many subarus out there but thats no surprise to me

I agree %100 . I was just looking at a 1000 mile trip to go get the transmission and then return the core at a later date. guess I just won't buy anything from them in the future since their guys are apparently hacks

Thank you. I'm not sure they are available new, in my area anyway. I guess all I can do is hope they will ship them to me from the yard. I wasn't aware that they would just pull out still attached to the cv axle. Or I should say I hope they just pull out. I'd hate to think they destroyed my transmission just pull ing it from the wreck

As I feared, taking in the core before installing the used transmission is going to cost me money. For some reason they pulled the output axles too and I didn't notice. I was sleep deprived and I thought I looked over it pretty well but obviously I did not. I will try to get them to mail them to me on Monday but I won't hold my breath. In the mean time I'm taking a shot in the dark and trying to find a set locally today so if anyone knows the part number or even just the proper name for these parts I would be grateful. Thanks in advance

I actually thought about taking pictures and writing it up but because it was probably not the safest way to install it and as some of you know I don't always articulate my thoughts effectively and if my technique were to be exposed I would likely be banned from working on my stuff at our shop and possibly kicked off the safety committee lol