Toadspit

/No they refused to waive the core but after leaving at 5am and getting back at 4pm I now have the used transmission bolted in but it's still at the shop and I'll finish hooking everything back up in the morning. Thankfully I have a good friend at work that jumped at the idea to make a road trip out of it with me because there is a pretty good chance my old van would not have made it. I made sure he didn't have to spend a dime on food or gas. I figured it was the least I could do.

Road trip! I'm off to Missouri with a friend from work to get my transmission. We're about 2 hours away now and I can't wait to get it back and installed

thanks for sharing your findings. I've been pondering this for a while now. I was stuck on someone stole the car just to joyride and I was imagining the smell of burnt clutch that might be in the car.

I've checked Craigslist and had no luck which suprised me because I've seen them crashed on there before and I've even purchased a subaru legacy L on there that turned out to be an awesome deal. I finished pulling the transmission on mine yesterday after work. I ended up not pulling the engine a 3Rd time and it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. I've also gotten all of the external parts and the exhaust hanger off of it but I'm still nervous about needing something off of it after the exchange so I will call them today and ask about waiving the core charge. Thanks for the input guys

I'm pondering that option right now. The only thing that makes that such a tough call is the transmission that fit my criteria is 225 or so miles away. Returning the core later makes that a 1000 trip. I wish I could have found one with decent milage much closer but subarus aren't quite as popular here as they are in other places

okay guys thanks for the input. First of all sorry about the post being confusing. I was on the clock and tried to post really fast. Apparently it was way too fast. I have taken my outback to my place of employment to start this swap. It is kind of nice being able to do this kind of work in a climate controlled garage which I don't have at home. So tomorrow after work I'll go to our grounds shop and start the removal process and I'll be taking the core to the yard that the used AT is coming from. I have no idea what a junkyard wants with the core but ooh well. I'm not sure what I should strip from the old AT but solenoids come to mind first. I'm pretty sure the clutch packs are gone in the old one since I had no transmission codes but I didn't have AWD. Thank you all for your input. I am greatful. Any other comments or suggestions are much appreciated

Or go ahead and pay the $100 core and sell off all the solenoids and then scrap the shell later? I really don't want to rush to remove the transmission to drive it 225 miles on Saturday. Share your logic and help me decide. Thanks

mine wasn't quite like yours in that mine would start and barely run and it never got over a few hundred rpm and then died. I quick test of the TPS with your Ohm meter while opening and closing the throttle will either prove or disprove this. If your ohms don't go up and down in relation to the throttle position then remove your TPS and open the throttle just a hair and hold it while reinstalling the TPS

I had a similar issue once after swapping to a 2.2. Did you happen to remove the TPS when the engine was pulled or just prior to reinstalling it ? It is easy to install it wrong due to the fact that the TPS isn't in the proper position for install in it's relaxed position.

please do because the suspense is killing me lol

Wondering if you got anywhere with this? I experienced a similar situation on two ocations and once it was the MAF and another was the TPS showed erratic resistance on my meter. Like the reading on my meter would vary at partial and wide open positions and various positions in-between

I have just used the grey gasket sealer and not the parts house paper. Depending on yiur driving habits and how long you plan on driving it you might consider replacing the bearings in there while you are at it

I have changed clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing with fork, retainer clips and all while just sliding the mt back after removing exhaust and drive shift but I wouldn't count on it being a clutch failure. I'm guessing you've already washed your hands of the deal by now but thought I'd throw in my 2 cents

I remember when I got my first subaru and when I arrived on my job site early one dark winter morning and I got frustrated and finally just disconnected the battery until after work when I had time to look into it. I felt pretty silly for some reason. You never forget your first time lol

Thanks Imdew I'm watching there in hopes of finding one within a reasonable drive. And thank you Montana Tom I'll contact them tomorrow if they are opened and Monday if they aren't. I'm trying to make sure I cover as many options as possible

I thought that the noise I was hearing between the engine and bell housing was my torque converter but after replacing it I drove it only about 40 miles before there was a loud knock, only once but it then became obvious that the AT was toast so if anybody knows where I can get a decent transmission at a fair price feel free to chime in

i know this issue has already been sorted out but i had an ej25 with similar issue and I cut access holes with an angle grinder. I was dirty and ugly but it was fast and effective

loose or broken connections would be where I would start. next I would visually inspect the fuel pump wires from the pump all the way to the fuse. voltage drop generally occurs when a run of wire is too small for its length. As am example I've installed really long runs of wire for street lights and to prevent voltage drop we start with a wire bigger than your thumb at the begging of the run and end up with a wire that is no bigger than a pencil led. My point is that if anywhere along your fuel pump wire is partly cut or has damaged connectors that would reduce the amount of surface that current can be carried on it will result in voltage drop

How important is it to have the outer sleeve attached to the new TC before install? My c clip is trashed and I have the engine pulled in a friend's garage and I'm 6 inches from being able to close the garage door and I don't wanna get him robbed of tools in the middle of the night. When I first swapped the engine in this thing I had no choice but to pull the TC still attached to the flex plate and I installed it by just sliding it all back together but since this is a new one I need to know if it's bad to install it without the snout Thanks in advance

seems to me that there is a need to look elsewhere. Although losing power steering fluid from the pump would possible distribute it mainly across the right side of the engine especially at high speeds I believe that the loss of 1 quart of oil every 600 miles would have me looking somewhere else before I attempted to purchase a now PS pump. Personally I've never seen a valve cover distribute leaked oil in the manner described. I should also add that I've never seen the seal at the block halfs leak either . That doesn't mean it doesn't happen but I have never seen it I'm sure there are others with more Subaru experience than me though. wish I had more to offer

Just incase anyone else ever needs to know in the future it is the 11.750 with 23 splines

I'm still thinking seriously about just driving it out there but I might have found a decent price on the torque converter as soon as I can verify the measurement between the bolts. I was unaware there would be two different ones available listed for the same car

It just dawned on me that I still have the flex plate from the 2.2. I bet I can measure those holes and prove that you are correct. Thanks for chimming in

I know the simple answer would be to pull it and measure it but I need it to get me to and from work until I locate and purchase the part so I'd like to avoid pulling it just to measure

Does anyone know off the top of their heads what the spread is on my torque converter? I'm coming up with two variations ; 10.875“ and 11.750“ I didn't think there were two different ones but I haven't worked on any 4EATs before so I wouldn't really know anyway. Thanks in advance