suby2001

Hi guys, Bought a vehicle from craigslist not that while ago ( Subaru legacy 2004), and in a day or two transmission started leaking, I looked underneath and discovered that there's no driveshaft attached and the transmission has a big crack. I already got the transmission, and was wondering if it's okay to drive it as is without a drive shaft? Wouldn't it damage the tranny, computer wouldn't have any problems with it? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

I wanted to try to adjust the valves and I told my mechanic that it would be nice to do it before, but he said there's no way to adjust them, it's not a chevy where you can easily adjust the valves, so unless someone can explain step by step how to do it so I can do it myself( I'm a newbie) I don't want to take the heads off, and sorry, but I did not understood how to adjust the valves from the past posts

Checked everything today, adjusted the TPS, cleaned the idle control. Now it's working how it supposed to be. However, still has a misfire Tomorrow planning to open the heads and look at the valves. Does any of you guys have a DIY with pictures for that kind of job? Thank you.

Thank you! How to do the valves adjustment?

Hi guys, sorry it took me so long. I'm graduating and it was my final week, so had to study a lot. I checked the timing, took off the covers. Timing is perfect, didn't moved at all, and "0" at the middle pulley. On CEL had 4 calls: P1142 No DTC Definition Found. P0507 Idle Air Control system Revolutions Per Minute Higher than expected. P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Talked with a mechanic, he said it might be the heads. Because the Timing belt is new, which means it was replaced; and if it broked when they were driving - they messed up the heads. Don't know what else I can do, Subaru dealership? Please, any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thank you.

Oh forgot to say, the timing belt and pulleys looked brand new, I don't think the previous owner did a good job on changing the timing belt.

The thing is that the engine runs great now, didn't drove much around 30 min, but doesn't seem like it has any issues even with the CEL on. I'll try to drive more, maybe something else will pop up.

Okay, so here's what we discovered: Took off the timing belt cover, and just like you guys said, found that the belt was off time by 2.5 or even 3 tooth! Fixed that, started to drive and didn't feel any changes. Erased the codes, drives like a new car. 30 min later CEL is back, 2 calls: PO302, PO304 (cylinder 2,4 misfire ) We checked for the vacuum leaks, didn't find anything. Wires and plugs were replaced 200 miles ago, coil doesn't seem bad. Bad headers?

Thank you so much guys for the advices and suggestions, I didn't expect that I'll the answers that quick! Tomorrow planning to check the wiring and the timing belt. Today when I was driving the CEL started to blink, and also it feels like something is stuck in the catback system or exhaus system. When I'm driving on low RPM it's like a vacuum bubble or something, then RPM's go higher the car awakes and the bubbly "something stuck" noise disappears. Maybe the cat is clogged? Also, I can take the video and post it in youtube if that would be helpful?! Thank you again guys, I appreciate your help!

I'm a new guy here, can't find any rules or tips how and when to post, I'm getting really frustrated, Please, I need some help! Here's the problem, I've got Subaru Legacy L 2001 Automatic, bought it three month ago, the car was having issues with a radiator cap, I replaced it and started to drive. In a couple days CEL popped out, misfire cyl 2, misfire cyl 4, some vacuum leak, and Map sensor. Here's what I did:Put new NGK spark plugs with a proper GAP, new NGK wires, new coil pack. Changed the oil, and filter. After that we erased the codes, after 10 or so CEL code - misfire and MAP sensor. Next thing what we did, checked for the Fuel pressure, which was good, and cylinders pressure two of them were around 120 and two of them around 95-100, which I think is Okay.. Next thing, got the MAP sensor from ebay used one,installed and cleared the codes after, drove around didn't feel any difference, CEL is on again - MAP sensor. GOT new knock sensor with a TPS sensor, installed it today and cleared the codes, and no difference. Ordered the MAP sensor from ebay again, but they send the wrong one, doesn't fit on mine, it's more for 2004 legacy or others, so had to send it back. Mine part is Bosch 0261230013, and of course autozone or advancedAutoParts don't have it. Ebay has it but for Hyundai which is okay I think? So I'm planning to get that one. Here's what the car is doing: start's up and RPM are going to 2500 right away, then slowly goes back to 900-1000 , and shakes; sometimes badly and sometimes not really noticeable. After 7 min of warming up I'm trying to drive but there's no way I can, the car is in the stage of a "hitting a wall" or "loss of power" and hesitating. And only happens under load, doesn't happen in neutral. I had to stop and put emergency lights on, because the car wasn't moving faster than 2 miles per hour and it doesn't matter how much you pushing on the pedal. However sometimes It's getting better(pushing on the pedal and sounds like the air stuck somewhere, with a sound of misfire-very rarely but it happens) Here's the tricky part, after 2500-3000 rpm it takes a second breath and drives like crazy, no issues, no hesitation, a lot of power, until it goes back to low rpm, and becoming badly again, sometimes even dying. On the parking works great, responds great. Tranny shifts good, around 2500-3000 rpm Also, when I pulled the MAP sensor it was all oily, and inside of manifold looks kinda oilish? Don't know if that's okay? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks