Subaruist

What a cool idea! #1: I would be conerned that your engine heat would deform it, but aparently not ? #2: Any reason you wouldnot want touse aluminum or an exhaust heat shieldmaterial ? #3: What are the real, practical effects of doing this? Anything that can actually be measured ?

LOL !!! - and they have them available for custom design logos for about $70 - $80. My favorite idea would be to tweak the Subaru symbol to being too wide so that I could shine this on the road ahead of my Brat, and it would compensate for the elongated angle when shone on the street, being that they are designed to shine straight down normally. - But I'm too cheap topay $70 - $80 bucks for them to do that, lol...

I love the simplicity. - I assume I could not do similar improvisation/replacement with my 1983 Brat ???

- Have a phone number or web address for that place? My point is that the extra empty holes would look hokey. Not the biggest problem, but I'm looking for the best possible solution. Considering that almost no matter what I doit will cost me hundreds, I want to choose the best option to have the least chance of regret and the lest regret if I do.

Ok... I want slightly bigger tires on my Brat. I want to use my original rims, But the range of available tire sizes for 13" rims is abismal. However, I can get EXACTLY what I want if I get trailer tires and find someone to mount them. QUESTION: I know why one should not put regular car tires on a trailer; But what would be PHYSICALLY wrong with putting trailer tires on a Soobie ??? Trailer tires have thicker sidewalls, and that is a plus as far as I am concerneed. I don't care about warranty, liability, "Street legal" or anything else like that, I am only concerned with physical, practical and safety matters. So... is there any real physical/practical/safety concern regarding using trailer tires on a soobie???

Ok... I want slightly bigger tireson my Brat. I want touse my original rims. As you probably know, the range of available tire sizes for 13" rims is abismal. However, I can get EXACTLY what I want if I get trailer tires and find someone to mount them. QUESTION: I know why one shouldnot put regular car tires on a trailer. But what would be PHYSICALLY wrong with putting trailer tires on a Soobie ??? Trailer tires have thicker sidewalls, and that is a plus as far as I am concerneed. I don't care about warranty, liability, "Street legal" or anything else like that, I am only concerned with practical and safety matters. So... is there any real physical/safety concern regading using trailer tires on a soobie???

#1: Why not flip my rims ??? - C'mon,don't jusrt say not to do it without an explanation, what if I am the rebellious type?, I might do it just to be defiant,lol... #2: If I get 6 lug rims and drill them, many tire shops will refuse to deal with them.Not to mention that it adds to my cost of buyiing tires and rims, and also that finding used 14" 6 lug rims has not panned out in months so far, and low probablity of it happening any time soon, especially considering that I need 5 so that my spare matches the others and I can rotate them now and then. -Dragging out a simple problem?!? - Simple?!? This Brat is not going to be an off-roader, It is going to be a primarily "Street" car, so slapping 15" rims on it is just not going to happen as I have decided, I will be dressing it up, and doing so is not going to be simple if I intend to do it right. For instance, having 6 lug rims with extra holes in them, leaving those extra 4 unused holes would not make the rims look especially cool, it would look hokey. Drilling the hubs weakens them. Most Peugeot rims are aluminum, finding used ones is difficult, and as you mentioned, potentially expensive. Adapters are costly, I am not sold on their long-term reliability, and they are actually the most expensive option considering that they would be a cost in addition to rims and tires. Unfortunately the only way this problem is simple is if I have lots of money to mindlessly throw at it, which I do not have, and even if I did, I would still give a damn about what I was doing and how. This is NOT a simple problem if I want to do it right. I shall not give up or give in easily, lol... There IS an answer, even if I have to beat it out of the Universe forcefully, lol...

I have come up with what I think in the end are thetwo best options. #1: Just buy new Peugeot 14" rims. - Expensive, especially sincein most of the optons so far, it means buyingtires, rims,and in some casesadapters or having work done, lke adding lugs or whatever, which leads me to what may be the simple, ideal option 2: #2: Use the rims I have, dress them up, use the old trick of turning them out/backwards for the mag wheel look, maybe get secondary holes/valve stems so I can put air in them if/when needed, as turning the rims out/backward puts the original valve stems on the inside of the rim, which is a pain if you air them up, and.... Just get bigger tires ! This option means not altering or adulterating anything, not having to buy adapters, not buying new rims, and not having to find a set of 5 used rims. The Tires will cost more of course, but the end total cost will lkely be less than any other option. The question is how large a tire can I find, afford, and put on my present rims. (and maybe still fit into my spare tire area under the hood). What I like most about this option is dressing up my rims my own way. The plan would be to have them sand-blasted at least on the one (back) side, then, since turning them out/backwards reveals the crude side of the rim, its welds, rust, etc, I would smooth out the welds with some JB weld epoxy and some light grinding/sanding, and maybe either a second sand-blasting, or glass beading, or I may get lucky and be able to do the sanding, grinding and epoxy before the sand blasting/glass beading, and then painting them. I have seen a really cool type of really metallic spray paint that has allegedly been very popular with people using it on various things for cars, with little or no problems or returns. Then figure out some way to detail them with fine stripes or two-tone color or something to make them look as cool as possible, and finally to give them X number of coats of clear to help them stay good looking for as long as possible. It all comes down to what kind of tires I can get to make this work and look good. So far as I measure, my nearly bald spare, being a 165 80 R 13 is approximately 22 1/2" across. Add at least another 1/2" for new tread, and that gives me only about 1" to 1 1/4" remaining space for the spare tire area under the hood. My regular tires turn out to be 175 70 13, which seem tomeasure about the same across, within a 1/4 inch or so for somereason. If I abandon having the spare under the hood, my wheel wells seem to form an arc approximately 25 1/2" across, So I guesstimate that I have an absolute maximum possible increase in diameter of tire of about 2 -3 inches across in diameter without a lift kit. I will not be doing any lifting in the front, only the rear, so I have to account for no lift kit in the measurements. The real puzzle is that the numbers on the tires deal with tire height as a percentage of the cross section of the tire, and not an actual measurement in inches or mm of tire dimensions. In all, not a lot of room to play with, but on the good side, it also means that I really do not need larger rims, that little bit of difference can be accomplished with tires that I would guess are available for my 13" rims. This small difference, combined with turning the wheels out/backwards will make the wheels look noticably bigger, and with coollooking rimswill make them possibly look just perfect, as well as being 100% sturdy and original, and somewhat affordable. A potentially perfect solution to my needs and wants. I have been checking, and so far I kep finding places that either will not list Tires for my Brat in the first place, or will not put anything but original spec tires on it with the excuse of "Liability". - Funny, all those other little cars out there get all kinds of tires, What Bull !!!

Found a new gadget/toy on Ebay I may have to get: - I want to do more than under the doors with it though - Maybe shine it on the road just ahead of the bumper? Facing forward on to any wall I park in front of? I wonder if one can get custom logos, like Brat, or Subaru Parking only, etc???

I received my Dealer shop repair manual the other day, and last night was finally able to enjoy it. I was almost giddy, like a kid on Christmas morning, lol. It is nearly 3 inches thick, and has real weight and heft! My only dissapointment with it is that I was hoping it would have more part numbers for misc. parts and bits. But otherwise, one could not hope for a better repair manual. I am tempted to make a special case for it. Years ago, a friend gave me the same type manual for my 1978/1979 Brats. The cover was about dust, so I took the whole book apart, page by page, made a major investment in sheet protectors, and put the whole manual in sheet protectors in a huge parts store notebook binder.

Today I finished fixing my windshield wiper bases (is that what they are called?). I have not mentioned them before. One was cracked/broken. SoI got two 2-part epoxies. One was a liquid dual syringe type toglue the parts together, and then I used a 2-part putty epoxy a couple days later (yesterday - tuesday) to reenforce and build up the base. The 2-part putty epoxy was too thick to glue the pieces together but was superior. Today I also used the 2-part putty epoxy on the other windshield wiper base just to try to make sure it would not be the next thing to break. Both bases are now much thicker and stronger around the base, and I have done all that can be done for them short ofreplacing them. I think it would be a good thing if someone were to use one of these bases to make a re-usable mold, then re-cast them in aluminum preferrably, or maybe even in zinc, which would be pretty easy. (one might have to refine the center hole) Those cast metal bases would probably never break, and one could make somedecent money selling them to those of use who have had broken bases for a permanent repar/solution. If I did not have such a long list of projects myself, I would do it. I also finally fixed the last little leak in my cooling system. That little hose from the intake manifold to the base under the carb. When I went to take the old one off, it pretty much just fell apart, it was rotten with age. Instead of getting the official shaped replacement for nearly $13.00, I got a litttle over a foot (after cutting) of some heavy duty cooling system hose (much thicker wall) for just under $2 and ran it around the front of the distributor to each (nozzle?). I bet that's not a new trick, lol. What made this simple repair unnecessarily more difficult was that O'Reilly did not have any hose clamp using a phillips head screwdriver, but the slotted screw type. I hate slotted screw anything. - and they were also stiff to adjust, making it that much harder, so I slapped together a long 1/4" socket driver assembly onto my bit driver with a socket and that made it easier. Finally !... I have fixed 3 different leaks in the cooling system now. and it now seems intact and functioning. I have not been able to post pics because my camera itself has now gone bad. I will maybe get out my old 5 megapixle Olympus. It has been a good and depenable camera.

I don't have said feature. I could obviously carry one in the pick-up bed of my Brat, but aside from a personal preference not too, It is just too handy having in in the engine compartment, and altthough there are other uses for that space under the hood, I like the spare beingthere, and if at all possible want it there. I think (THINK) That if I stick with my original plan of getting 14" rims, and putting fairly small tires on them, that would probably work. I have given up on the 15" X 8" wide rims. If those rims were 14", I would have gotten them for cool looking mags, but not 15". That is just pushing things farther than I want to.

Ok, once and for all... I, personally would not be afraid of them popping - at all. There are REASONS why the they pop! Either due to defective bolts, etc. or overpressure, etc. If you were to get them in decent condition, had good bolts, and either knew what you were doing when inflating them, or had someone who who what they were doing inflating them, you have virtually nothing to worry about in the first place. All these scare stories about horrific explosions are just that. If everything is in good condition and done right, they are just fine, and anything going wrong is a rareity at most. Regular tires on regular rims pop or go wrong too you know, and a hell of alot more often. I got the idea from an off-roading buddy I knew for years who never had a problem with his. In fact, I met him out in the middle of nowhere changing a flat, and with what he had or had rigged up, he was able to fix the flat without even taking the wheel off the vehicle! I stopped to see if he needed help, which he did not, and was very impressed, which is why I had wanted them myself and never got around to it. I don't need them now, but if I was still a serious off-roader, I would be looking for them. Enough with the urban legend horror stories - for every instance where anyone can claim something went wrong, (likely due to some obvious defect or doing something wrong) there would be a number of stories of things going wrong with regular tires on regular rims, not to mention trying something with other than mundane/regular tires, like putting tires too wide onto regular rims, or putting regular/narrow tires on wide mag rims, etc. Also, these stories usually involve the TIRE going bad, NOT the RIM. Sorry, but I have seen how handy they are first hand, and you are simply not gong to convince me that they are dangerous if in good condition. Just let it go guys. - - - - - - - On to the original subject, and on that note, if we use the 139.7mm X 6 lug size bolt pattern, which is only .3mm difference from the 140mm of a Subaru, there are a large number of vehicles/rims that can fit, assuming that you have a large enough center bore hole from what I have seen -and technically, that too could be fixed. However, my biggest problem is that I want 14" rims, and especially in 6 lug rims, and used, and in a set of 5, that is pretty damned hard to find. Regarding modifying my hubs instead of the rims, I have checked, and although I can get front rotors for $20.00 or possibly less new, the new rear hubs are much harder to find, and cost closer to $80.00 or more a piece. If the rear hubs did not cost so much, I would get a new set of rotors/hubs and have the extra lugs put in, but only with new ones, not with my old ones. Beyond that, there is the guy who makes the bolt-on adapters for $60 a piece, which might be nearly comparable or better in end cost, except for shipping from Austrailia. I am not sure I would trust those because of the emphasized caution he puts on using lock-tite to install them. If you need lock-tite just to make sure they don't start coming apart on you, then I don't have full confidence in them. Otherwise, adapter plates would have been a good and simple idea. It seems there is no easy answer to my particular situation but finding, buying, and modifying the rims. It also seems that the only way to get good condition rims, in the size I want, and get 5 of them, is to buy new rims and mofdify them, AFTER I confirm at least one place that will have no problems with mounting tires on them for me. In the mean time, the wheels are #3 on my list after bearings and clutch, so I still have time to figure it out or find rims.

- Ad dammit... This whole rim and tire thing is driving me up a wall! Thanks Wagonist, at least that's one way to do it if I have to, but I wonder that if I carried a spare with no air in it, if it would hold air when I need to inflate it, lol...

I would carry two spares, that's enough to carry, and under rare circumstances not enough. There is also weight and space consideration, especially when yoo have to have a lot of other stuff just-in-case, like a spare alternator, fuel pump, water pump, ball joins,etc. etc. etc. etc. I couldn't take the whole garage with me, lol... Who the hell carries counter top cement? I really don't care. It is oneof the most useful adheasives there is, and came in handy for many things. Who the hell carries an extra pair of ball joints? I did, because aside from the fact that they don;t take up much space, they are one of those little things that if they fail can drop your rig dead in the dirt right then and there. Why the hell would I keep Sage and detox tea with me? Its a desert trick that you probably don't know, but that can save your life. Why do I take specifically surplus magnesium and steel cable snow shoes when out in the middle of nowhere when driving in snow? I could give you a whole list of things that you could not even guess at, but that can save your azz when it really counts. Like I said before, I have lived the reality. I have had plenty of exerience, more than a few flats, and I speak from experie3nce when I say that I would love to have had split rims. If you feel differently, you can off-road differently. You use and carry what you want. There were more than one occasion when I would have loved to have split rims, and I really dont care if anyone else agrees or not quite frankly. I also don't need anything but 13" rims, but by damn I want 14" rims, and I have my reasons for it also, thank you. Please don't presume to school me when you have not been where I have and done what I have done. Maybe you should focus on helpful suggestions instead of second guessing people who might just know what the hell they are doing...

I would carry two spares, that's enough to carry, and under rare circumstances not enough. There is also weight and space consideration, especially when yoo have to have a lot of other stuff just-in-case, like a spare alternator, fuel pump, water pump, ball joins,etc. etc. etc. etc. I couldn't take the whole garage with me, lol... Who the hell carries counter top cement? I really don't care. It is oneof the most useful adheasives there is, and came in handy for many things. Who the hell carries an extra pair of ball joints? I did, because aside from the fact that they don;t take up much space, they are one ofthose little things that if they failcan drop your rig dead in the dirt right then and there. Do you know why would I carry Sage and detox tea? Its a desert trick that you also probably don't know, but that can save your life. Why do I take specifically surplus magnesium and steel cable snow shoes when out in the middle of nowhere when driving in snow? I could give you a whole list of things that you could not even guess at, but that can save your azz when it really counts. Like I said before, I have lived the reality. I have had plenty of exerience, more than a few flats, and I speak from experie3nce when I say that I would love to have had split rims. If you feel differently, you can off-road differently. You use and carry what you want, but please don't presume to school me when you you have not been where I have and done what I have done. There were more than one occasion when I would have loved to have split rims, and I really dont care if anyone else agrees or not quite frankly. I also don't need anything but 13" rims, but by damn I want 14" rims, and I have my reasons for it also, thank you. Maybe you should focus on helpful suggestions instead of second guessing people who might just know what the hell they are doing...

I happenedto be across froma Midas shop, so I stopped in to see if they would dare do the job. They had half a dozen caveats/conditions that would make my life difficult, did not want to use new parts I could supply for the job, (Not counting the actual motorcycle mufflers I would have to supply) but then admitted that they would need this and that, and wanted a minimum of nearly $300.00 to almost $400.00 for what amounts to half the size, parts and work of the average small car exhaust system, with me supplying some of the parts. Yeah, right... But I expected that. Someone else who is more capable, less demanding, and more cooperative will be getting my money, lol...

Only people who have not off-roaded and flatted more than one tire hudreds of miles away from anywhere are laughing. When you have already used your spare beacuse your first tire was shredded, and on the way out/back have another serious flat that cannot be fixed with the usual methods, a split rim means you can take the tire off the rim fairly easily and do an improvised repair that you otherwise simply would not have been ableto do. I had to do that once, without the benefit of split rims, where I had to get the tire off the rim and literally sew a sidewall tear back together and glue a patch with counter top cement (the only rubber based glue worth a damn anymore) onto the inside of the tire over it to be sure it would hold. Split rims would have made that job half as hard and twice as fast. You are welcome to your opinion, but I've lived the reality, and if I were off-roading like I used to, I would love a set of split rims. They can be life savers in a very bad situation.

Uh oh... I was about to have to design my own reverse/mirror image Hot Wheels decal from scratch, and this time when I searched, I found a few examples of just that online ! That will make things much easier !!!

Thanks - For future refernce purposes, will a normal 14" rim and tire fit under the hood???

C'mon guys - I need some input... 15" X 8" wide rims - no tires yet, can I put normal tires on these and have enough original clearance to drive with them without a lift kit, and be able to turn without rubbing something ?!? Are tirss for such rims hard to get or costly? I have to call this guy today to confirm sale/purchase... Thanks.

I know how you feel, lol... #1: I have to go through virtually every electrical connector toclean them out and freshen the actual metalof the contacts. When I have to do something like this, I use cheap, disposable emory boards for fingernails and break parts cleaner, as brake parts cleaner tends to be safe for most plastics, with readily cut through most grimeand petroleum products residue, grease, old oil fume build-up, etc. and leaves no traces behind. The emory boards have an ideal thickness, and with old/cheap wire cutters can be cut to the needed width. They have enough grit to cut through pretty much anything, and quickly leave clean metal behind. You can get a pack of several at Walmart in the cosmetics section for less than a buck and a half, more than enough for even a major job, like cleaningevery connector in a vehicle you can get to. #2: When I was installing my new auxillary driving lights, Three times in a row, when I tried tp loosen a 10mm bolt to use for a ground, it snapped off with surprizingly little effort due to rust and age, which tells me what I can look forward to elsewhere, and that I will have to use penetrating oil/nut looseneron any and every bolt or screw going into metal. I found this stuff, I forget the brand name, but it advertised thatit also actively cut through rust, and it has actually worked better than any penetrating oil/nut loosener that I have ever used before. It was expensive at nearly 8 bucks a can, but has worked well for the money. #3: Probably too late for what you are doing, but especially in an older vehicle, if you have to open up the door panels, I would strongly recommend greasing or somehow lubricating the window tracks/guides as long as you are in there, and maybe even putting some sound deadening and/orinsulationg material in there. Aside from the stuff usualy meant for that, there is something similar but possibly superior that you can get at home improvement centers meant to go under your carpet. It is thicker than the automotive variety, and when used with the automotive variety can have a dramatic effect without adding much weight or taking up much space, or costing too much. -That reminds me - I should do that when I get to installing my next set of speakers in the doors !

I have a deal pending with someone for 5, yes FIVE matching 6 lug rims for $100.00. It will be a drive to get them, guy will be confirming measurements, including the center bore hole for me tomorrow. I believe these are the ones: CORRECTION - I think THESE are actually the ones: They have bald "Super Swampers" on them. I can have them taken off, but My new concern now is how the hell do I haul 5 of these monsters back ??? My Brat pick-up bed is kinda full of stuff, some of it just a little too fragile to be under these monsters. I guess I could put the stuff somewhere, but then going from Grants Pass back to Medford on the freeway with the additional weight of these would be bad on my bad clutch and my bad bearings. - Oh, by the way, My temp agency did not register my pay card (direct deposit debit card) so I didn't get my pay!!!, and the Subaru Mechanic so hard to get an appointment with was due to replace my bearings tomorrow !!! Oh,what a complictaed life I lead, lol... They are 15" rims. General opinion that I have seen here on the forums is that I would need a lift kit to use them, is this strictly true? If I am only driving on the street - nice and easy? I can get a lift kit later... More importantly, the guy says that they are 8 inches wide, as in that might be a problem. I know they would be a bit harder to steer, but would that be too wide to turn corners without rubbing? Is that unusually wide? would it be hard or expensive to find tires for? The plan is to drll the two extra holes in the rims to bolt them on my 1983 Subaru Brat stock hubs, and I think I have found a place that will do it for me. I need to know soon as I do not want to commit to buying them until I know. OOPS - another consideration - will ANY tire on 8 inch wide 15" rims fit under my hood where the spare tire goes?!? Thanks in advance.

I have all the stuff to fix a flat. Split rims at this time of my life would be a preference, in previous years when I was a chronic off-roader, I would have given my ( - - deleted - - ) for split rims, lol.. Otherwise, what you have in that video -Nope. I my life depended on t, I guess I would, but I would exhaust every other possibility first or instead of that, lol...

Well to catch up, I have not been able to post as I would like to, due to work hoursand being really busy. I have made some interesting little changes though... After buying the lenses for my in-bumper parking lights - which it turns out no longer existed anyway, no sockets, no housings, just empty space, lol. I decided to just remove the lenses and bought a pair of fairly bright ( 55 watt ) driving/"fog" lights at Harbor Freight for only 12 bucks, which fit fairly well into the same holes. For now the mountingis hap-hazard, what I could do on short notice - see, my headlights have been extremely dim. I had the alternartor checked - ok, and I replaced the headlights with the brightest that I could find, short of zenon, which would be very expensive for whatI would need to convert over. so I got :"extra vision" headlights. Normal quality headlights for this vehicle (see confusion below) average 40 watts loabeam, and 55 watts high beam, but the new ones are 55 watt low beam and 65 watt high beam. That should be good enough - nope, thay are brighter, but because of the dimness, they are not as bright as they should be. SO... Until I actually get to the bottom of the dimness issuse, I need some useful light on the one country road I have to travel to work. CONFUSION: The headlights for "My" 1983 Subaru Brat don't fit. They are too small. I had to get headlights for a 1981 Subaru Brat, which makes no sense. After looking at things, I belive that some previous owner replaced that whole section in front of the radiator with something from that year of some Subaru, tack-welded in place fairly well. ANYWAY... I also got a small pair of 50 watt halogen driving lights at Walmart for about $18, which I mounted to the ready holes in the front crach bar, and have angled a little off to the sides to focus on and pick up the sides of the road, the road lines, and any potential pedestrians or bicyclists, etc. HOWEVER, I now had no actual yellowor orange parking lights in the front.I suspected that this might not be street legal so to speak, and I was notoverly fond of those little white parking lights next to the headlights, so as I consider painting them with transparent orange and/or yellow paint, I got some tail light and parking light repair tape, just to see how it works, to be legal, and because it was easy, cheap, and temporary, but possibly lasting. ( I only switch the driving lights on when on that country road =, when I need them, as I am still a little worried that a cop might not approve of two sets of driving lights aside from the headlights, even though I was told that they did not exceed the total number of "white" or driving lights legally ) In the picture below you may be able to see that I used the yellow parking light tape around the sides of the previously white parking light lenses, and rtan a strip of orange tape don the front side of them for a two-tone parking light. I kinda like it. If it lasts, I may keep it that way as the tape actually does protect and preserve the lensesas well, more than paint would certainly. When I went to take pictures of this, my camera died. So I went to the nearby dollar store and bought batteries, which, after ONE picture died, - but luckily I bought a 6 pack and the camera uses only two. So after replacing the batteries, I toook ONE picture, and the next batteries died too, and the same thing all over agian after that. - In the end, I only had one remotely usable picture to share here, and please note that the driving lights, although dimmer than they should be, are not nearly as dim as they appear in this crappy picture, lol... So now, I can at least see the road, what's on the sides, and of course the road signs much better, although I still have a dimness problem, even with the new driving lights, which are newly installed, and have 2 or 3 fresh grounding wires of thier own. Also, yesterday, when it was foggy,and I needed them most, I smelled soething getting hot, and the fuse for the driving lights blew. I did have both sets oflights, totaling about 110 watts of power going through one 15 amp fuse and the cheap plastic toggle switch that came with one of the sets, so I replaced the switch with a good metaltoggle switch and replaced the 15 amp fuse with a 20 amp fuse. This morning I smelled that "something getting hot" smell again, but the lights did not fail.I suspect it is the wire itself, so I will soon replace the main wire with a heavier gauge wire and replace the 20 amp fuse with a 25 amp fuse for good measure. I also figured out tha I could use some aluminum angle for brackets that will fit/work great in/with the recessed holes for the original in-bumper parking lights, and to better mount the now in-bumper driving lights. I even figured out a way to fashion the brackets so thatI could adjust the in-bumper driving lights much like you do headlights. Monday the Bratgoes into the shop for front wheel bearings and a tune up, Friday it goes back for a clutch job and rear main seal replacement just in case, which the mechanic threw in, and always does, which seems like an all around good idea. Once all that is done. the next two priorities are replacing the horrible exhaust with a motorcyle/side pipes exhaust,and replacing the wheels IF I can get some damned 14" 6 lug rims somehow, lol. After that, I can start really doing all the cool stuff I WANT to do, like a little body work and then and then the Bed/deck/cover. paint, and a couple of custom decals, etc, and then accessory lighting, etc. Then my Brat will become WAY COOL !!!