Subaruist

Apparently there are other possibilities as well, according to this website's references... http://www.crawlpedia.com/bolt_patterns.htm Also, this one is also quite helpful: http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Cross-Reference-Database.asp?LugCount=6&StudSpreadInch=&StudSpreadMM=139.7#axzz3Jk1oCOEI In this one, I found that pugging in 6 lug X 139.7mm yielded results - I think .3 millimeters is a forgivable tolerance, lol... The real issue would be the center bore hole size I guess... I continue to re-evaluate the prospect of having b=hubs re-drilled for 6lug, but aside from the xtra expense, being that I do not plan on owning more than one set of rims for the next several years, I feel that it, even if in a small way weakens the hubs, with the 4 additional holes/studs, and the two resulting unused stud holes. I would rather drill into the rims, as even in a rare possibility of some impact tweeking something, I would rather tweek the rims than the hubs.

I now have appointments with the local pro subaru mechanic for my bearings and a tune up, and then a clutch job with rear main seal thrown in. Its going to cost almost everything I have, but his prices are reasonable for a pro mechanic, and although I have not done business with him before, I tend totrust him because he has a history with older Subarus, and his yard always has more than one older Subaru Brat in it waitiung to be worked on. I feel confident about it. a real load off my shoulders. Years ago I had no choice but drive on a flat for several miles because I had fletted BOTH spares I carried then due to horrible road conditions. It ruined the one rear wheel bearings, and when I got into town I saw my rear wheel roll past me as the rear end suddenly slumped down. I have beenthinking abou that on every drive to and from work on the freeway,wondering "what would happen if my front wheel came off at 60 mph ?!? - Instant catastrophy, that's what.Eevn if I survived, the Brat might not. Yesterday evening I had a very embarrasing error on the freeway. I went to change lanes, and somehow someone was in my blind spot in the next lane and I simply did not see them, how I do not know. Fortunately they hinked and I got back into my lane until it was safe to pass. What alarms me most is that not only has that never happened to me before, but I drive my Brat watching everyone who could possibly come into range, both because the Brat is small, and people in larger vehicles might not notice it, and also because people on the road don't always respect it because it's small. I felt all kinds of bad, really shook me up. I guess I will have to drive even more paranoid-like from now on...

A very good point, and one that has been lurking around the back of my mind as well. I had given a little thought to reenforcement, but again,you do have a very good point, and a consideration that I may not have have given enough consideration to. It makes sense, it also makes installing the secondary tank much easier if I just put it up against the cab. - But I really, really was hoping to have that extra behind-the-seat storage, dammit! lol.... ( snif ). If I get obstinate about it, I guess I could mount a fairly thick aluminum plate around the hole, and also use the tank and its mountings as further reenforcement, as it would be in a goodplace for doing so. I have also been considering the cost of having the bottom corners of the tank cut out in the shape of the wheel wellls, and putting some simple curved aluminum plate, which would be wider than the tank, so that I can mount the tank directly on top of and between the wheels / wells.This would be ideral for supporting the potential weight. At some point I will likely make inqueries, and if it turns out to be cost effective, I may not be able to resist. Also, I would probablyuse the old threaded bolt holes fromt the back seat seat belt rigs to fasten mounts/braces for the 2nd gas tank, so that in case of a frontal collision the tank will ntocome slamming upagainst the cab. The tank is older, and has obviously been dry for quite some time, as there is absolutley no slightest scent of fuel, so a welder might feel secure working on it. That would also again depend on the verticle clearance for the bed deck/cover at that spot. Up against the cab, the verticalclearance juat barely makes it, not counting fittings, filler, etc.

A very good idea, and I thought of it also - no place here with electrical, and I don;t think there is any true 24 hour access in the local storage places. I willtry again when something comes up again. For now, I would feel much better just having a mechanic take care of these couple of serious matters. Besides, that frees my mind to figure out just how to do my exhaust system. I need to find a place that will install a motorcycle exhaust system without giving me any guff about it.I frankily don;t even care if apparent side pipes are street legal or not as long as they have actual mufflers and it is not too loud, (It is loud and sounds like hell right now and I'mnot getting a ticket yet,lol ) I may well get away with it. - Especially since that will be the last major mechanical operation for the near future, and I will be able to paint it, etc. Once I am able to paint it, put in the deck/bed cover and such, itwill start looking a little like a hot rod, and the side pipes will kinda 'fit' the picture.

A couple of tipsfor you: #1: I have salvaged extremely rusted things is a rarther drastic, but quick and easy manner - I got Hydrochloric or Muratic acid from a swimming pool store, put the parts in it in a 5 galln bucket, it ate through the rust fairly quickly and removed all traces of rust, then put them in baking soda and water also in another 5 gallon bucket, then rinse/wash to get rid of any lingering baking soda residue, and IMMEDIATELY dipped or coated with oil, WD 40 or something - anything, because if you don;t the metal will start re-rusting fairly soon. #2: Smell, germs, etc: At the store, even many grocery stores, you can find a small odd shaped dark brown bottle with yellow label - Lysol liquid. Not the same as the spray. Concentrated, smells like band aids. It will kill just about anything and everything. A friend had sewage back up and fill his basement, on my advice after clean-up, he sprayed everything down with its mix and it killed all foul odor. #3: I have seen new carpet for my 83 Subaru Brat I think at J C Whitney for $99 or so. I will be getting that once the major mechanical issues are dealt with on my vehicle. #4: Some types of insects and critters will find thier way right back into your vehicle follwingscent and scent trails left behind even years before - aside fromLiquid Lysol, Moth balls, bot whole, and crushed and sprinkled tend to repell quiate a lot of things. Yeah, its whiffy in itself, but it smells better than that yucky musty funky stink that may otherwise seem ompossible to ever completelyget rid of. If you really love your Subaru, once you get done any of that, first treat everything applicable that you can with rustoleum, - paint for the metal floors, etc, and spray for moving parts like the seat tracks and then a light coat of pain - then maybe coat the metal floor with truch bed liner. Itwill prevetn firther rusrting, and also give the floor a little more strength if it is thin in spots from rust and rust removal. Also, baking soda and water sprayare also good for getting rid of smells. If you first spray your seats or whatever with vinegar like you say, then if you spray them afterward with baking soda and water, the inevitable reaction and foaming might lift up and out residues, lol.

Just bit the bullet, spent almost $70.00 and ordered the REAL (Dealer) repair manual:

Guys, your advice is good and priceless. Unfortunate reality #1: I cannot work on a car where I live,I have to sneak around tocertain places to do anything at all. Pulling an engine or even havingit up on jack stands at all are just plain out of the question. Unfortunate reality #2: I have a good job now, doesn;tpay much, but long hours, its already getting dark when I get off work. I just cannotrisk doing it myself and something - anythng going wrong or causing any delay. Unfortunate reality #3: So far, I have only found one decent (professional) subaru mechanic in my vicinity, his yard is always full to overflowing with work , and he doesn;t work on weekends. So far as yet, I have not found any Subaru enthusiasts in my vicinity who are in a position to do the work, if I amto be wise, I should not trust a private person to do the work, as there are too many thngs that can go wrong, and although there is one individual here in Medford who I could truct, and who is a master subaru mechanic, I know he does not have the time, so I willnot impose onhim to even ask. Unfortunate reality #4: I am forced to have to go to 'some' professional mechanic,make sure he knows that I know athing or two, especially about my vehicle, cross my fingers, andget financially raped forthe work. Right now I still donot have the money, and willhave to blow possiblyhalfmy paycheck on just getting the front bearings done on one side, and hope to have enough next check to have the clutch done. -But I also have to get used tires/wheels for my Brat in the mean time, on those 13 inch rims that I want to get rid of, but have not been able to replace as of yet, because I cannot find resonable priced toyota 6 lug 14 inch rims, or Peugeot 14 inch rims.- least of my problems in scale and comparrison though, lol. After that, if I don't have to do the brakes ( don't think I will) then I have to find someone to weld a new exahaust system together, who will not have a problem with me using motorcycle exhausts/parts to make essentially side pipes,which in a normal form are likely not street legal, as most are not actual muffler systems. Once allthis financial raping and drainingof everything I have is done, then I can start to do all the other work I actually want to do, like a little body work, the bed deck, and then painting it. That stuff I wil be able to do myself. The one bright sun beam in it all is that I have a kinda friend who isa machinist who has done repair work, can be trusted, might be competent, and who has connections at a shop.f I can swing a deal with him/them, I might be ablt to get the work done for a resonable price and also *(slimchance) make a deal to pay to be ableto work on my Subaru at that shop. Problem is I have no way to contact him, exceptthrough a friend of a friend who is very undependable for getting back in touch. I may get lucky again, sometimes when I am in a position like this, things somehow come together and I amableto make a miracle happen, but I cannot put my eggs in that basket, just keep workingthe situation and hope it works out. I am looking forward to the day I can post pics of my Brat starting to look like it is destined to...

If it is a clutch job, or worse, a clutch job and rear seal replacement, I am simply not going tobe able todo it yself under present circumstances. I was considering temporarily renting am enclosed storage locker big enough to work on my Brat, but there is jusy too little margin for error, because there is no guarantee I could sucessfuly do it on the weekend and be sure to have it ready to go for work the next Monday. Also.as opposed to the old days when I would not hesitate to tear things down, foolwith them, and put them back together, with some things, I really would prefer a professional to do them. Its going to cost me dearly,as I do not make much money, but this Brat is the mechanical love of my life, and is worth it. Problem is the one mechanic in Medford who is a subaru buy is always swamped with work and does not work on the weekends.

I put the secondary gas tank in place, kinda - where it probably should be,and t fits almost like it was meant for it. Although still a bit high. the top of the body is stillbelow the rear window rubber !!! The reason I wanted to mount it in such a funky position is because I really wanted to partition the bed ( under the future bed deck ) so thatI could have a hatch from the cab, through therear wall, so that I would have extra storage space availabl from the cab, as there is so little room in the cab for anythng. However, if I am willing to give up on that, the tank fits wonderfully, with just a coupleinches extra space on either side. The gas sender will work perfectly, everything works with the slight exception of dealing with things sticking up above where I want the Bed deck, such as the fuel inlets and maybe the gas sender, as well as the filler tube, all of which would need covers or caps or protection of some sort. Now if I get desparate, I can scoot the tank back to where it is up against the wheels well(s), and/but that would give me just about 6 - 9 inches of space across the span of the bed/tank, which does not seem to be enough tobe practical, and although the tank seems almost perfect right where it is sitting now, if I moved it back it might screw up the rest of the space available for everything, namely the bed deck. However, another dilemma is the filler tube: Where it is sitting now, it is kinda crowded up in and next to the side where the bed slopes up to the top of the cab. Keeping inmind that the gas station idiots ( i call them that because they usually can't even figure out how to open my gas cap door - even after fooling with it ) are required to do the filling, and I am not allowed to, due to Oregon's idiotic law about doing so, they may either have some difficulty filling the tank,or will more likely bang-up my trim on that slope in doing so. IF I were to scoot the tank back a very few inches against the wheel well, then the gas port may become a little more acessible. Mind you, it would not be a problem for me or you, but only the guys who can't figure out how to open my gas door are allowed to fill it, and they are often ina hurry and not that carefull. I still have no clue what I will do about somehow putting a proper gas port with locking gas cap onto or preferrably INTO that filler tube. If I can put something INTO the filler port ( Using a gas-proof epoxy or sealer and maybe a bit of hardware to make it solid ), I can cut it down quite a bit shorter, and there will be virtually no chance of gas leaking out especially during filling, as there might be if I put something onto the outside of the filler tube. - Do they sell such a thing as a gas port tube? I mean, thse are usually just part of the vehicleor chassis, and are rarely ever replaced... Otherwise, more good news for me is that (#1) When I looked into the big gas sender unit hole, it does appear that the tank does have interior reenforcement/baffles, which would be significant in reuducing the sloshing of upto 166 pounds of gasoline to one side when I turn, I am hoping they are reenforcements/baffles, and not just one thing next to the sender unit for some other reason. Also, the tank (with gas in it) is rated at being able to physically withstand pullng 24 'G's in a turn, and being that a human being generally loses consciousness pulling less than 20 g's for even a few seconds, I think the tank and the gas in it will be able to withstand my style of driving, lol... (EDIT) - OOPS- just found something that may be perfect, will have to make some measurements and check on it being welded...

Thanks to brat82 I was finally able to replace the parking and turn signal lenses on the passenger side. It looks so much better. I hated those broken/missing lenses - they really made my Brat look a little like a junker every time I would see tham. Now it at least looks whole ! However, when I went to replace the in-bumper parking lens, I discovered that there was no lamp, no socket, and no housing to hold the socket or lamp - just empty, vacuuous space ! lol - something else I have to find and replace I guess... I kinda wish I could replace them with some kind of driving/running lights, but even if I could find the right size to fit in there,I would basically have no parking lights on the front....-unless I painted the inside of those white parking lenses orange/yellow and turn them into parking lights... Hmmmm..... - Bye the way... My bulb sockets and holders sit a little too loose - I am thinking of using some cheap kitchen caulking or something to seal them in, because it would be fairly easy to still remove the bulb socket/holder, tearing it away in the process - does anyone have a better suggestion of what to use ???

Thank you !

I just had a horrible thought today on the way back from work... Is there not a seal where that soindle/spine forthe clutch/tranny comes out of the engine??? Is it not possible that the problem is noot actually my clutch, but that there is some oil in the clutch causing it to slip ???

Ok... that winch is just too damned big! - which is why love it!!! That thing has got to be over-kill, right? I mean.... you could lift three times your vehicle's weight straight up with that baby!!! Great job on the tubing/frame for it, lokks better than your average large winch on the front of a vehicle. It seems most of the great Subaru mechanics and innovators tend to be in Washington state for some reason. If you were not way upthere in Washington I'd have some work for you bending/welding some stainless steel for my Brat. - Are those Rainier Ale work trophies adorning your hood in the picture ??? lol...

Solenoids? A logical and obvious consideration of course, but never entered my plans. I plan on putting 1-way vales into the installation, but want to go with two fuel pumps and a switch between them, as I know it will work, but I also get a second fuel pump out of it, and in a pinch where a fuel pump goes bad, I have a back-up, and could also just switch to the other tank until I could fix or replace the bad pump, especially depending on where and how I mount things. The question remaining is if I want to rig a switch to go between the two tanks, which would be the assumtion and wouldsave on space wherever ther is left tomountanything in my tiny cab, as opposed to the convenience of seeing two gauges and how much either tank has at any time at a glance. I know that in-tank pumps are supposed to be safe, but personally, outside of simple wiring for a gas gauge, I would never have anything powered in my gas tank lol. Just that electricity + gas simply does not sound good to me no matter what. As I stated previously, I may have to do some serious improvising where any gas gauge is concerned, due to the tank likely being mounted at a serious angle in consideration of the bed deck/cover. I only have so much vertical space under it at min/max which seems to be around 15 incehs or so max. The tank itself is just over 16" tall, not counting the filler tube or anything else. Even if I max things out, I cannot have the bed/deck any higher than the rear window rubber, which is still under 16 inches max.So the tank is likely going to be essentially sideways, with the 'top' likely facing forward, on the forward facing side, mounted on top of the front portion of the wheel wells. (other mounts as well for the potential weight) I might mount it with the 'top' facing rear, beacuse of its shape, which is somewhat trapezoidal if I have the right term. It would be almost impossible to get/rig any kind of gas gauge sender that would reach into the 'bottom' - side and be accurate. I could use the gas sender intended for it, and MAYBE turn it 90 degrees, but there are 5 screw/mount holes for it, which makes that almost impossible, whereas it would likely work with 4 or 6 holes. That means drilling custome holees and making sure that the original holes are utterly sealed, and I will nottrust just a gasket to do that. Also, even then, would have to rig it as it would have a drastically different range due to a drastically different span orswing. going from what should be several inches to less than maybe 5 or 7 inches. A 90 degree bend in the filer tube is no problem, although I will have to find something for the end, a typical filler opening, and be able to mount it securely. I am hoping to have a hatch/lid/cover with the gas cap below, and some drain hole/tube for over-flowing when some Oregon gas station idiot tries to fill it. Here in Oregon, drivers are not allowed to fill thier own gas into a vehicle, can or anything bcause gas has been declared a hazardous substance. Makes one wonder how they expect a home owner to fill thier lawn mower with gas - are they supposed to take the mower to the gas station?!? Idiocy.

I can remove the radiator, thatis not too big a deal,it would notlook too serious from a casualby-stander's view if I simply have the radiator out of sight. (See my recent post above for why that matters) So how far can I slide the tranny back without detatching the tranny crossmember anyway? Removing/installing the bearings is my greatest concern... Don't I need a specialtoolto do so, especially if I amworking on it in a tight space and at an angle?

My problem is that this must be a somewhat covert repair, Where I live I cannot do extensive or extended repairs, and having the Brat up on jack stands would be more than gambling. Your explanation makes a lot of sense, seems quite sensible, simple and doable, but Having it on jacks is almost a no-go, and I do not have another location to do it at. Refer to my recent post below... To modify your method, could I do it without detaching the tranny cross-member, but detaching the drive shaft from the rear, etc. and just unbolt the tranny from the cross member and slide it back on that cross member a little way? I need to explore every option...

"if i remeber the ea81 will just sit in the engine bay kinda sideways and give you more than enuff room to work on the clutch with out disconecting the wire or fuel lines or accesories still have to pull the radiator and drop the exaust though" -Seriously? t does not look like enough roomto sit the engine sideways... hmmm....

I just had a thought... Next major priority is getting this clutch thing done. However, the general price for doing it has been guessed at by a Subaru-worthy machanic as being $400 - $500. That is a lot of money. Where I live, I cannot doextensive or extended work on my vehicle(s), and before even thinking seriously about doing it myself, I need to have a plan that makes it fairly quick, with as little tear-apart or complication as possible and with a surety that it will go and work out as hoped. I know this has been more or less covered in this thread, but I have to be sure before comitting to doing it... I have an idea - I once did an emergency clutch job on a1st gen Brat by simply unbolting the engine, and moving it forward just enough to get the parts in and out, without changing the pilot bearing. Not supposed to do it that way I know, it was in a real pinch. What I am thinking is if it is possible to (#1) Unbolt the engine and move it forward, and unbolt the transmission and move it back just a little, without detaching the drive shaft, or removing the transmission. (Last I knew, detaching the drive shaft meant transmission gear oil coming out the back of the transmission) Removing the radiator to make a little more space would not be a problem. In the end, The only way I can realistically do this myself is by doing this without actually removing the engine or transmission. Even IF I can do that, the big problem is the bearings - removing the old ones, and installing the new ones. I imagine I would need some special tool to remove them at the very least.The alternative, is the gamble of not changing the bearings at all. - that is even if this can be done without actually removing the engine or transmission in the first place I also would have to do it before it gets.too cold too, lol... Won't I need a specialtool to remove/install the bearings, especially considering that I will be working in a tight space and maybe at an odd angle? I must assume there may be a complication,like the bearings do not want to come out easily... Any insights on this unorthodox idea?

I have considered these things in my periodic obsessive thoughts on the project... Sun/Heat and Mounting/Drilling holes: I will not be drilling any holes for mounting whatsoever, and want to avoid drilling any additional holes for anythng else. I am hpoing to use the holes already built into tha tank for anything I need to do. Part of the plan is to have a Diamondplate deck/bed cover over the whole bed. The tank will be under this and insulated. The construction of the deck will also help mount/hold the tank in place. In fact, I was actually looking for hardware for doing that when I found this tank. Also, expansion will not be a problem anyway, as the tank fits across the bed with inces of spare space at either end. There will be significant mounting hardware, but between that hardware and the tank will be hard rubber, and the tank will likely be insulated as well. I may also be covering the main tank down under with something, as I like to do anyway, which ofcaurse should not be necessary, but I kinda like doing things like that anyway. Gravity Feed re-fill / Pumpsand gauges: I have thought of the gravity re-filling of the main tank. Potential problems: (#1) The main tank I think is 14.? gallons, this secondary tank is 20 gal. That means that even if the main tank was empty, if the secondary tank was near full, it would overflow the main tank. What I am thinking, and feel free to correct me/give input/etc. Is to have a second stock electric fuel pump for this tank, install a "Y" in the fuel line, and have a switch to switch from one tank & pump to the other, The potential problem is if the pressure from one fuel pump could/might push gasoline back the wrong way through the opposite pump, in which case I would have to find and install one-way valves. I'm not sure if there are such things, and I would hesitate improvising with any one-way valve not meant for gasoline or solvents, etc. I could have fuel gauges for each tank, or again have a switch or same switch to also switch between gas tanks and gauges. I have a few mini SPDT switches to use on my projects, but I could maybe get and use a DPDT switch, which would switch two separate circuits into two different routes, twoway for either pump and two-way for either guage combined, but if space, etc.permits, I think it would be best to either have two guages, or two separate switches, to see how much is in each tank without switching the pumps. Again, this would all depend on whether or not one pump in the system would force gasoline in the wrong direction past the other pump. The question being if these stock pumps naturally act as kinda one-way valves I guess. UPDATE: One way fuel valves do exist, I will plan on using them. Sender unit/Gauge/Pump consideration: I have found the appropiate sender for this tank, however, there are two complications with doing it the right way: #1: Sounds dumb, but I cannot be sure if the tank is supposed to be upright with the filler tube facing up, being the top of the nak, which is likely, OR, as in land vehicles, often the sender unit is on the bottom. There are two raised pipe-threaded post/holes, which I do not know the purpose of. They would be very large for fuel feeds, and otherwise, where is the fuel line supposed to come out anyway? Out of the sender unit??? All features/holes/etc appear to be on the "top" ofthe tank. #3: I had a minor psycho-sematic heart attack or aneurysm or embolism when I realised that I had not measured the vertical on the tank. (blinded by the thrill of finding this tank) I will have to mount it on a slant if not on its side.I can do this. It will work, but again, it completely changes the whole issue of what sender unit to use and how to mount it. Other considerations: Upto 166 pounds sloshing from side to side while pulling "G's" in turns... Driving "enthusiastically" ( as I so love to do ) as in sharp turns, among other things - If I made or had a tank made, it would have had 'baffles' in the tanks to drastically reduce sloshing from one side to the other when I turned. This tank's label specifically addresses the issue, and even has some ratingfor the "G's" I would pull. I'm not too worried, but still, at I think it is 8.3 pounds weight per gallon, 20 gallons max, could weigh 166 pounds - 160 pounds suddenly sloshing to one side would probably have some effect on things, lol.. The tanks will be JUST ahead of the rear wheels, so otherwise the weight will be well balanced for the vehicle. I would expect someone to take issue and ask "Why the hell do you need to double your gas capacity ?!?"... If I were intending to be an off-roader, the answer would be easy. Being able to go deep into no-man's land where there are few or no gas stations. Being that I am focusing on this being a street vehicle, it becomes a little harder to justify... Its about having significant options with very little trade-off. #1: Lowest gas price: IfI were to keep the main tank full,and the secondary tank at least half full or more, then I can make a fill-up last for weeks. In that time, I keep an eye on the lowest gas prices in the area, and can more often than not buy gas when the price is lowest, and waiting it out until the next best opportunity cvomes again. #2: Long trips: Lets say I am taking a trip to Eugene for parts, I check the gas prices along the way. I start off with only one tank full, to compensate for relatively steep upgrades on the highway going through the moutain passes, but somewhere along the way wll be the cheapest gas, and that if where I fill up. #3: Zombie Apocalypse / Natural Disaster / Electrical grid down / EMP due to sun spot, terrorist attck, nuke, etc - Imagine such, especially if power goes out. Even if some gas stations have back-up generators, which is very unlkely and rare if at all, then how doyou get gas??? In time there would be work-arounds, emergency rationed gas, or stations getting generators, but at first, for days, no fuel. I would have fuel !!!. Not only that, but since I have one of those wonderful Brats that have no electronic ignition, the odds are that I would have one of the very few vehicles able to even start. So I could take off out tothe middle of nowhere and have plenty of gas to go hundreds of miles, - AND be able to come back without need of getting any more gas! Also - I have a 1 Ton Super Cargo Van with dual tanks, and I will in the very near future be fitting it with a hitch, and the Brat with a tongue coupler, or whatever the other thingy is called. With the Van having both tanks filled, and towing the Brat, and the Brat now having three or four times the range of the Van, in the worst extreme, I could potentially travel half-way across the continent or further before needing a fill up, and completely across if I was able to get gas. This I couldpotentially go any where if need be. #3: Empty tank/No downside: This gas tank, as big as it is, weighs only about 20 pounds, so if I do not keep it filled, it has virtually no effect on the operation or weight of the vehicle. It is a Just-In-Case Ready-To-Go option. #4: Zombie Apocalypse Alight !: I could mount a flame thrower that would last quite some time, and in some way, Zombies would at least be distracted or have a hard time seeing/sensing, giving me a significant advantage, AND it would also be quite amusing seeing zombies on fire futilly flayaling about ! lol... - Yeah, I know....Zombies don't really exist...... - Do they???

Treasure !!! Piece by piece my fiendish plot is coming to fruition !!! At my beloved scrap yard I have found another key component to making my Brat ever more wonderful ! As I have mentioned in pervious times, I have wanted to install a secondary fuel tank across the bed, either even with, or just ahead of the wheels/wheel wells. I did not expect this to be easy. In fact, most or all vehicle fuel tanks would have been made of steel, would have ben odd-shaped, and difficult to mount, even if I found a vertically mounted tank. The other options were to either fabricate one myself, which would be difficult, time consuming, and expensive, or to have one made, which was not necessarily a better option either, or to hope to findsomething at the scrap yard, which until today had not happened. The funny thing about this scrap yard is that when I go there, I usually do not find what I am looking for, but instead find something completely different that is a monumental treasure! I needed 3" by 3" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle to start my Deck/Bed cover. Can't get it. While I was going back and forth, looking and looking again, I spied something odd looking... could it be some kind of container or tank? Yes! It turned out to be an aluminum gas tank for a boat! It was almost the perfect shape and size, and ready for fittings! I asked how much, it would be either $2 or $3 a pound, I hoped and wished, and it was quoted as $2 a pund, for a totalof just over $42.00 !!! I bought it !!! It is aluminum, good for weight, It is almost rectangular and fairly easy to mount, and at 20 gallons possible capacity, it more than doubles my maximum driving distance before needing more gas!!! Just what I needed!!! I just need to find out what kind of sending unit I need to get for it, and how to add an actual fill port. There are also a couple of threaded stubby post holes that look like they are threaded for 1/2" pipe or something... Pics: Finding the proper sending unit may be a daunting task.... But I found pretty much just what I need! I so happy !!!

LOL... Well I could say that actually it was the Axle because the nut was loose, or that it was the nut because the axle threads had a problem, or that... In any case, yes, the bearings will have to be replaced anyway, because I did see rust on the bearing balls, - and also, being that certain mechanics insist on turning the rotors if doing the brakes, and as a result charge almost twice as much. I would rather buy new rotors because they only cost just over $20.00, so in the end, piece by piece, I will in time be replacing a good many of the parts on my beloved Brat, - but you know what?.... Its so worth it.

Today I found that the horrible sound coming from my right front wheel, was, as I suspected, NOT my bearings, as a couple of service outlets had claimed. The axle nut was not torqued on enough due to a small problem near the end of the spindle. Once that was dealt with, the fix took less than 5 minutes, requireing the extremely technical operation of applying the socket and breaker bar to the axle nut, standing on the breaker bar, and jumping up and down on it a bit to tighten it up more , lol. Technically, it required about 165 pounds of torque, plus a little due to the original problem with the threads, so at approx. 260 Lbs I think I was able to tighten it up REAL GOOD! lol... Problem fixed. Got an estimate for a much needed 'adjustments only' tune up for only $30.00, which sounds great to me, but the mechanic, a local subaru man, has a lot of business and I am having trouble matching my time to bring the Brat in with his available times to do the work. I could use suggestions for an available Subaru-worthy mechanic in the Medford/Ashland Oregon area, especially if they are available Fridays through Sundays some time...

I love the descriptions about the sound in makes! I wish I knew exactly what he meant, and wish I could hear it myself. My only real reservation is that (#1) It looks like it would likely prevent using the usual rock guard/shield, which I rather like, (#2) That it might add, more or less directly to heating the engin oil up because of its close proximity and essentially surrounding the oil pan, and (#3) That nobody would want to get thier hands in there to change the oil until the engine had cooled, lol. I believe that the actual sound it would produce in the end would be determined by the difference in length of that one pipe, so, theoretically, it might be possible to actually "Tune" the sound of the exhaust by varying or experimenting with the length of that one pipe for the best sound! lol. - How it would be done, I don't know, would it really be worth it to go to the extra trouble for a perfected exahaust sound, not sure. If we consider what djellum said above, and you wanted to performance tune your exhaust, being able to vary the length of the exhaust(s) while driving could also improve top-end performance - quoted from djellum : "the longer the distance the more velocity you need to clear it, but if you are shortening it then it may clear out quick enough before it looses its oomph." -And from "Willy Fisterbottom" at http://www.ausubaru....ead.php?t=25070 , as you mentioned: "She used to run out of breath at 80kmh in 2nd gear, I can now rev it to 100kmh before shifting" Thus, If you could somehow vary the effective length/diameter of your exhaust(s) somehow, on-the-fly, as you drive, you could make a small but real difference in overall performance. It is beyond my purposes, as I am not building a "Fast" vehicle. - Maybe something similar to how a slide trombone works? Maybe linked somehowwith the gearshifter or your RPMs or something, as a driver concentrating on racing would not want another thing to mess with while operating the vehicle - but otherwise I think it would make a difference. - Just over thinking it, as I often do with many things, lol...

NOt sure about the availability about an "x" pipe istself, or what you are specifically referring to, but I had an almost exactsame ide with the motorcycle exhaust partsin the above picures - they show a narrow 2 into 1 piece - if I attach thoseback to back ( 1 to 1 ) then it would form a wide/narrow "X". I was also thinking, similarly to you, that running the exhausts into each other in that way wouldsend likely more or less equally divide the exhaust gasses/pulses/etc into both exhausts, and in the same vaien of course help the scavenging, etc. The only technicality I fear is that these parts have set angles, and I hope that I can run the pieces fromthe heads into this "X" with no 'angular' mis-match, as well as for running the pipes into the mufflers without same. I have been in contact with another forum member who has the vital stats and such, and we think the this type of exhaust may be more than adequate, but ideal for a Subaru, and I have a hunch that it might actually be a superior way of doing things, aside from looking WAY cool.

I love it!!! Beautiful Bra t! Beautiful blue! - and I LOVE the Ferret decal !! Super Cool, original, and unique ! You are a credit to the phenomana of the Brat !