djcommie

I'm interested in some parts too, I have Paypal!

I put a crate engine from 1995 in my 78 wagon and used a pre-oiler which was a glorified oil tank with pressurized air forcing oil into the oil pressure switch hole. I poured a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder, poured some oil on the rocker shaft, and put 1qt of oil through the oil system before cranking it. You probably shuold put some oil on the rockers, in the cylinders, fresh oil in the tank and some in a NEW filter, and crank it without spark plugs until it builds good oil pressure.

The two pin (3/8" spade) connects to the battery positive terminal and provides 2 fusible links: 1 to the alternator and 1 to the entirety of the car's electrical system. The fusible links are a pain in the butt and were total garbage even when new, I've replaced mine with 60A Maxi-fuses (APX). The EA71 alternator should be 55 or 60A, and the car shouldn't really pull more than 60A, since the starter has a dedicated line (that you already have connected).

I think I have the little stainless steel corner pieces for that glass, the set I have is slightly different than the ones for the windshield, and I always wondered what they could have been for. Do you still want those NOS shocks? I think I have the bushings for them as well

If the OP can't help. I have an engine harness for a manual and one for an automatic EA71 engines.

I think they have them as well, I haven't had any trouble finding parts using just Amazon and RockAuto, honestly. Partsgeek got me a gasket set for a Daihatsu I had years ago, but the first two should be fine. I used RockAuto for cross-referencing sometimes and purchasing on Amazon due to my Prime account, but RockAuto really deserves the business since they stock so much for the old Subarus!

True dual exhuast (from each cylinder bank) would likely ruin any scavenging that the stock exhaust Y pipe does.

The service manual tells how to adjust the ride-height, I imagine your torsion bars are tired, you may be able to 'reindex' them and get our ride height back. My 78 4WD Wagon sat with a few hundred pounds of parts in it for almost 20 years, and it took a few days sitting there once unloaded for the ride height to come back to normal

Given a specific time interval and the symptom, I'd say that there is an issue with the choke system. Make sure the little electric coil is connected and working, it should have 12V when the engine is running. I had a bad voltage regulator cause my 78's choke to act oddly, not far from your symptoms. Make sure it closes mostly when engine is cold and ambient temp drops, and opens as the engine warms up, probably open all the way as your temp gauge just reaches its normal warm position. The other option is some sort of leak that stops/get better when the engine warms up, but the choke seems most likely to me.

I have an ATK crate 1600 in my 78, it runs absolutely perfectly. They did a great job on these engines, I saw nothing but the absolute finest gaskets and seals in the engine.

I am in the midst of redoing the front end of my 78 Wagon, so bought everything from Amazon, actually! I purchased the bushings for the radius arm, inner control arm bushings, inner tie rod, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. I already had some strut tops, but RockAuto had those as I remember. Note that Amazon says 'out of stock' on most of that since I bought all the quantities they had! edit: I went to ball joints that used nylock nuts instead of castellated+cotter pin. and reused the factory bolts/nuts since they were still good.

622004020 1975-76 diff mount bushing $5 qty22 Is this the rear 'outrigger' bushings for the 'moustache bar' mount? I'll take 8!

I use a steering wheel out of an 83 hatch in my 78 with no troubles, the only issue was some trimming was needed of plastic at the back so it didn't hit the column. Horn and everything works!

I have a spare stalk if you want that part that is still good.

A really short 17mm socket (that you're willing to grind on a little bit) and a 3/8" extension may clear . I suppose you could just remove the rocker assembly to gain the necessary clearance, since you may want to anyway to get the heads skimmed and checked for cracks.

Agreed on always resurfacing heads. These heads aren't the most modern technology, and they can and do warp, and the resurfacing gives you a bit of compression, which is always good!

They aren't torque-to-yield bolts, they are reusable. Don't worry about spelling bolts wrong, they're studs anyway.

I have some seals from this parts lot if you still have to have an original style seal. I think they're in entire OEM reseal kits.

Reassemble with anti-seize if you think the engine will last through this new water pump and onto the next one. Remember that anti-seize reduces the fastening torque of bolts by 5-10%, so if someone requires 25ft.lbs, torque to 22 or so.

Its a different style seal, but dimensionally looks correct other than the height. That may not even matter, and it looks like the only difference between the two is the height and that the OE seal has a metal plate to divert some splash away from the seal. Personally, I would have no issues with using that in a rebuild.

Reliable or cheap, choose one. If you can't stand to have a failure because you cheaped out, then don't cheap out. The Subaru OEM gasket sets have had revisions and are what the dealers use to keep their customers happy with their car, whereas an aftermarket set may be the original spec made by the lowest bidder.

They won't plug in at all, I don't think OBSs came with low impedance injectors (like the EJ20T does), nor does a 99 California spec OBS use an airflow meter. You basically need a donor car, or at least a front clip. Otherwise you'll be nickel and dimed to death.

I registered here last year after buying a 78 GL Wagon for $500 off Craigslist, and though have contributed/bought/sold/everything here, I never actually posted the car itself! How I purchased it: How it is now: I'll get around to posting a journal of building it, someday.

I went to a RadioShack last week looking for some resistors, and was surprised at the cool stuff they had with regards to DIY/hacker type stuff. I swore 5 or 6 years ago, it was nothing but yellowed Tandy branded parts.

Usually its corrosion on the little finger contact itself, but it may be the brass circular contact is warped or corroded as well.