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dp213

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Everything posted by dp213

  1. Well, I have figured out the fans aren't working. I plugged the green test plugs in and they work, but otherwise they don't work. There are 2 sensors in the coolant tube that goes across the top of the motor, is the single wire sensor feed the temp gauge and the multi wire sensor right next to it the one that controls the fans?
  2. Lower rpms at any speed. If I give it gas the temp starts to drop.
  3. Friday I'm going to bypass the heater core and see what happens. Does suck, it's starting to get cold around here to drive around without heat for a while. Lol
  4. My 98 gt has been getting hot sometimes. I had a leak down test done and that was fine. I then replaced the water pump, thermostat, and radiator. It was fine for a couple days, but now it's doing it again. The only thing I haven't changed is the heater core and this morning I noticed a bit of a film on the lower windshield inside. It's not losing coolant anywhere and it's not pushing bubbles into the overflow.
  5. The blinkers work in my 98 wagon but the left blinker switches off as soon as you start to make a left turn intead of after. Not sure where to even begin looking for this issue
  6. Quick question. I am hearing a gurgling sound from my heater core sometimes. Is that a sign of it starting to fail?
  7. You might have an egr port on the back of the drivers side head to plug. While engine is out, separator plate updated?
  8. The switch in mine does not have a plug on the switch. The wires come out of the switch and run up by the engine bay. Can I use one that has the plug at the switch and just get the extension to go with it.
  9. I pull the motor as well for a clutch. Then do any seals that need replacing at the same time. Without a car lift and a tranny jack, I just find it easier.
  10. On an auto tranny, is it the switch on the passenger side of the tranny?
  11. I got no feedback the 1st time I posted this. Is there something I'm missing about this code that no one wants to deal with. Thanks Dp
  12. I got no feedback the 1st time I posted this. Is there something I'm missing about this code that no one wants to deal with. Thanks Dp
  13. Is the neutral safety switch on the passenger side of the tranny
  14. I have a 98 gt wagon with auto trans. A year ago when I ought it both motor and tranny were bad. I swapped in a low miles tranny and rear end from a 97 legacy and a high miles 95 2.2 motor. Last week motor died so I just installed a different low miles 95 2.2. Car runs and drives great, but now it is throwing a p1121 code. (Neutral safety switch) I clear it and it comes back the second time I start it every time. Car still runs and drives great, I just don't have any idea where the neutral safety switch is or what would cause this.
  15. That's what I thinking. Easy money to just say motor is bad. Makes me wonder about all the Subarus I see for sale cheap because a mechanic said it has bent valves.
  16. Last week I posted about the 99 obw I bought. The po was doing 65 on the freeway and lost power. Shop said timing went and motor was bad. I bought it with the intent of swapping motors. When I opened up the timing covers one of the idler pulleys was in pieces. I decided to put a new one on and retime it and it runs perfect. No valve damage was done. Well I picked up a 99 legacy gt sedan, also with a dual cam 2.5 that had rear ended a truck. Motor looked fine except a very small hole in the passenger side timing cover. I tried starting it but it had no spark. After trying and trying, I decided to open up the timing cover. I found the upper passenger side cam pulley was shattered. I put a new pulley on it and timed it and it started and runs perfect. So that 2 for 2 in 2 weeks that double cam 2.5 motors have had catastrophic timing failure, but yet no internal damage. So my question is, does everyone just assume those motors are bad when timing fails? Or am I really that lucky? I'm starting to question all that I've read about valve damage when timing fails.
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