Hsoj

RA had a sale on some a few years ago and I stupidly bought about 5 sets as they were like a dollar each, well, ya get what you pay for, I got like 2 sets that worked fine, no grommets and a bunch of poorly packaged cork that wouldnt lay straight no mater what you did.

Its been a bit! Thats a clean looking build! Thanks for the pics! I just popped back on this site today! Hsoj, formerly known as Yo'J!

So I just got this 90' jdm ej22 motor to fix the brat. I cant seem to find and specs on it. Anyone know of any links? Btw, Its been a while!

At the store, grab them at the ends with both hands and try to shake and twist the sh!t out of them. If they click or wiggle and move really easily, dont buy them. Get a different one. They cant argue with that. They should be stiff and have no play.

Wait till you get an 82 or earlier...Different set up completely.

I would rather get some yotas and drill them next time than keep getting 14"s They have been phasing them out and the tire costs keep going up. 15"or 16" and you can get good tire options.

Bump! Whats up?

The pic in my avatar is a 2" lift on 14s. I would make sure you use fully welded blocks for the lift and through bolts because you wont get a wrench in the 2" blocks. I'd do a 3" if I had to do it over. Though the 2" lift is about perfect. Id also sell off the 14" rims and find 15"s just for tire availability or get 5 lug adapters and have a truck load of options. With a 2" lift there is almost nothing to do to the shifter if you've already gone to the 5 speed and get some lego steering linkages to make the difference up. I tore the plastic out of a lego extended unit and bolted it back up with some grade 8 bolts and have had no issues.

Thanks for the reply! I will look into the float to see if there is junk in the bowl or something like that. Its easy enough to do. This weber has been dd on two vehicles and for over 15 yrs so it might need some loving. It isnt hard to start hot at all though but you may be right about me being over critical....lol. This has been my dd for about 10 yrs. So, the first problem I had with this car about 3 mo ago was the fuel return lines started leaking in multiple places, then after that was resolved the sudden dying started. Prompting me down the fuel path.

Grounds are a big deal! I got grounds everywhere, as they seem to break like every other part or a car does...lol. Drove fine today, almost like its supposed to. New belts, rotated the tires, reinstalled the interior panels. Almost back to working order. I think im gonna install a starter switch for the prime function because it does take a bit of starting to get it to fire unless I toggle the fp switch, then it fires right off. Maybe my fp is just louder than most...i havent bought a new one in years it seems. (Though this damn issue pushed me through 3 off my shelves...lol)

I hope its solved too! If its not im pretty sure i can bypass the wiring or redo it if it comes down to that. I have a spare harness I can use as a reference if really needed. So, funny, my 87 brat and my 82 wagon prime like that and my 87 has an ej with the brat fpcu disconnected!

That's the second to three you hear the pump prime before you hit the starter I assumed. I'm hoping it is at least going to be drivable...Its not a turn key car unfortunately but we'll see as time goes on. I gotta make my wiring more solid than the temp stuff i ran. I totally thank you for the help! With the feedback from the coil to run the f/p and the total failure all at once of this car, some clarification was truly needed. I'm hoping we're at the end of it. Thanks again! To summarize; fpcu, disty pickup coil, and starter switch failure combining into a month of fun leading a whole new ignition system and fuel system. Oodilally fun! Whoopie!

Ok. I put in a new/used disty pickup coil, she fires and starts but there is no fpcu relay click until it runs. The power to the coil is fine and has been. I've just about ran all the tests I can. I can prime it by switch which is fine with me as long as she runs. I'm wondering why both fpcus dont fire for initial pressurization now. I just put in a new ignition switch (non subaru though) too. I think I might try to yank a subaru one to try out...Are ea82 ignition switches the same? I know they look the same but I don't know if they interchange. I wonder if that is part of the problem with the intermittent fp startup, the ignition switch. ($140 at the dealer is why I went aftermarket.) Every, time, I think, I get somewhere, she runs, and, leaves me, stranded. (shatner comma) 251k on this girl.

Does anyone know if an 82' 6 pin and an 83' 6 pin fpcu are really interchangeable? They look different on the inside and the relays are different. The wiring diagrams say the cars are wired the same but there are a lot of 82 only bits out there. The harnesses look the same and only have very minor color differences.

Ok. I replaced the fpcu and still no prime. Though when I pulled the fuse after installing the newer one, it only cycled for a few seconds instead of running continuously. The magnet in the disty is fine too. I'm at a loss.

Yeah. So I replaced the battery in my good tester, went to my storage tested 2 good distys and one unknown and they all read the same 2.200 to 2.500. I thought it was .600 to .850 but whatever. I guess my other tester wouldnt read the proper ohms...I...dunno.

Ok good to know. It does run continously. I'll check the relay. I rechecked the pickup coil in the disty and its not reading any ohms either now. I'm going to see if I have a spare or pull one from another car to try it out.

I think I got somewhere..not out of the driveway yet though... disty seems fine, pick up coil is working. So as I was testing out the coil wires, tach wires ect. I pulled a black white wire off the coil that goes directly into the harness and the fp started to work. I've checked it for shorts all the way into the passenger bay but cant find out where it goes from there or if it changes color. I comes out of the green smj at the passenger door hinge area and looks to go to the dash area but I cant find the other end. It carries 12 independently of the coil. Also, if I pull the coil fuse, the fp starts and the fpcu clicks over. So I have 3 wires off the coil, positive side, one to the disty, one to the noise condenser, and one into the harness. Why would the fp run if I pull the power to the coil?

Thanks you guys. The switch does tell me I have an intermittent spark, because when it doesnt fire I can give it fuel....regardless of it working right. It takes a few minutes after pressure drop for the car to die... after it starts....when it starts. I can assume its from the bowl emptying. But then it wont start again even when I give it fuel by using the switch. Its funny because It would drive sometimes a few miles, then die or just die right away and not start again. One day I could make it about 5 miles between deaths. (of course I had the thing strapped with tools and the rack covered in ladders and I needed that thing to drive!) Tom, what are the part numbers at the bottom? Are they disty part numbers? I'm checking out the module this morn..I'll update soon.

Ok, turned key this morn. It cycled the fp and started fine. The relay clicked like normal. then the pressure in the fuel line dropped and the car died. No click from fpcu after that and it didn't cycle. The fuse box reads normal the fusible links check the coil has power. Now it wont start again.. Later I'm going to test the ignition control unit, the primary and secondary electronic ignition system if I can find them from the haynes book just to not miss anything as it has the tests for the disty and on. I'm not sure where the icu is on this thing or the ignition relay if that has anything to do with anything. Is there an easy way to test the tach wires?

Starter is fine, battery is fine, good grounds everywhere, Weber is fine, there is like... no power or ground to the fpcu or some signal getting through to power the coil and the fuel pump. Distibutor was rebuilt about 5 yrs ago. I'm thinking this might be an 82-83 only thing as the later models all have 4 pin fpcus instead of 6. So I've noticed when there is no fuel, there is also no spark.

Ok, Something isnt right. 1982 lifted wagon. So intermittent wipers stopped working last year and I havent gotten a new relay. Now move forward. My ride left me stranded 8-9 times, wondering whats wrong. Just as I'm about to call a truck, it starts. So fast forward past 2 fuel pumps and wires for them as I have a gauge that shows no fuel pressure, always inline. Past the full tune including a new coil. Past my fpcu being checked and resoldered and an ignition switch replaced. I could walk out in the morn and start it. and in 3 min, its dead. When it starts, the fpcu clicks, (relay works) fuel pump primes and fires like a champ. When it doesn't, there is nothing. No click, no pump priming. I've got 2 82-83 FPCUs and both seem to work....or dont. So, whats in front of the fpcu, but down wind of the ignition that could be causing this crazy failure intermittently? What am I missing? I put a switch in to give power to the pump if needed but since the fpcu runs the coil, disty and the pump in a feedback situation nothing works when it doesnt work. What am I missing? ( besides hair now...)

Does anyone remember the name of GD's post about coating the cork with ultra grey and letting it dry first before installing? I tried it but I dont remember if I put more on wet when installing. I still have no leaks and its been a few years.

Ive returned tones of stuff to them. Even when it was my mistake. Nothing that was over time or installed though, never tried.

Doing the head gaskets is a great way to learn about subarus! So, I'll go....It will be tempting but dont put it in 4wd on the pavement. It can do bad things to your transmission. Use true subaru intake gaskets. Most people do stick with 10w30 maybe if its a really worn out motor and an ea82 10w40, but I have seen no difference in an ea81 so you might want to stick with whats recommended. Do go get the 190F thermostat and not the 180F one It keeps you and your car at a better temperature. As long as you gap your plugs right and use ngk stuff you should never need to use any weird coil as it wont give you any difference. If you have a nippon denso disty, you have to have a nippon denso coil. The hitachi doesnt care what coil you have but the nd ones do and they are expensive to replace. Oh, the brake pistons....they turn in, they dont press in like most model cars. On the clutch, you can just leave it sorta in place, loose and tighten it down through the starter hole, makes it easier. I dont think you need to go down that road yet though. I think thats about it unless someone can find the strange and odd subaru only thing I forgot. Except that this is the best site for knowledge on old subarus. If its been done, its referenced here. "Search" is your friend, Google can be way faster than the search function here, just put "ultimatesubaru" at the end. Enjoy!