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Nice work there, Josh!

I was looking up the system here and all I could find was systems for Porsche and lamborgini....starting a $4000+ish. I would think if there was a system used, we could find info on it. Would a NZ fsm have any info? Or a NZ dealer? I'm sure there is more of a market out there than what my fast search came up with. Companies that make these style of parts for small limited markets dont seem to last too long though... http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/novitec-hydraulic-height-adjustment-with-sport-spring-set-ferrari-california-0812-p-87329.html http://rpmware.com/data-product-lines/kw-press-release-universal-hydraulic-lift-system-hls or google "KW Hydraulic Lift System" for a brand...

Nice! I don't think that was an option available over here. Do you think it was a dealer option? If so, there might be a way to look them up. There are a few aftermarket makers of the system here but they are awfully expensive. Now when you NZers talk of a Leone, its our Loyale, right?

Do you know the 2.5 short block is in good shape? Others have found after a 2.5 hg is blown, the bearings go bad because of them being washed by coolant. Are you prepared to check? Thats one of my fears.

I have an 82 wagon as a daily and love it. Gutless yes but it gets me where I want to go. I also have a brat with the ej motor. It is really fun to drive but I feel guilty in putting wear on it as a daily. Its no where near mint either. The wagons are just so useful!

Funny, I'm just going to do this. So, wouldn't it be a good idea to mark the wires before taking out the trans so you can keep power to them and have your tester on them? Maybe jumper all of them and disconnect them one by one if you dont have a tester? My swap is an 83 2wd so I'm looking at a piece of cake here but I think the wiring spec is in the 5sp d/r swap writeup.

That frankenmotor is powerful enough to wear the car out with out a turbo. An ej22 is quite the kicker by itself.

Thats strange, I've been running ea82 hubs on my brat for a few years now with no problem. I think I pulled them off an 87'. The pin lines up, my brakes seem fine. I check to see if there is any funny wear but I've been driving on them for two years.

I put ea82 hubs on my wagon and they are beefier and a direct swap. I would drill those comfortably where on the ea81's... I'm hesitant. fyi Good luck to you!

For "pressing" the bearings back in, I use an old bearing I ground down on a belt sander so it would slip in and out of the knuckle. That way you can just tap it in with a hammer. I did notice a difference between 2wd knuckles and 4wd knuckles if you plan on going the jy route.

That Ute rack is a good possibility. I don't know how I would get that much strength off the bed tie-downs though. My gut tells me that would be something I could regret. I would want to make it remove-able and the last thing I would want is to compromise the body in any way. Do you think the bed would take that much weight in the back corners and in front of the wheel wells if I tucked a footed post down there or would I need to try to strengthen the load areas? Thats why I was thinking of using the sides as well as the bed, just that much more spread out load support. With the panels there, I wouldn't feel like it would be ideal to cover them with out having a way to get at them. I'm thinking something like, 1" by1.5" aluminum 1/4" wall square stock, angled in towards the top with a removable rear bar and a top deck of not much more than 3 feet in width, side supports, and the over cab section ending just at the rear of the t-tops, at least an inch above opening hight. Small, Just enough to get about 30, 1x4s or a slab or two of hardwood around town safely. I've been using my wagon with a built rack for way more than that and I'm a huge fan of doing a full body tie down. (I don't know if I'll ever trust tying off to just a rack.)

Has anyone made one? I havent found any pics of one. I think it could be a fun, useful option as I'm a woodworker by trade. On my gen 2, the tailgate is 49" so that leaves an inch either side to pick up the rack space and bolt it to the bed and possibly the sides and still be able to load plywood. I would like a way to load long boards with out having to go get the wagon which does do plywood but its more cumbersome. Anyone think of any pointers I should think about as I design this? I'm thinking about trying to stick with a 500 lb limit, maybe thats a bit high, but I dont have to load it that high. I get deliveries for that. Thoughts? (It would make it so much easier to put either car under the knife with out compromising my work situation, I think its really a must.)

Try Fittings Inc. They will have it, though you might have to bring your manifold in. They are is the Sodo district in Seattle on 6th ave S.

I just left the thermosesnsor in there. You could try to take the thing to Fittings inc. to find a plug to match. They would have something I bet.

I cant wait to do my next one!

I've been daily driving mine for a few years now. I got it all messed up. Bad axle job, bad carb, ruined steering rack, so I put a 5 spd d/r trans in and an ej, gave her power steering..... Drives great!

One of the biggest problems I've seen as well is not enough, or faulty, grounds between the battery and chassis and motor to chassis. They go bad over time and should be upgraded. Personally I think the motor should be grounded on both heads instead of just one and I think the factory ground from the battery to the chassis is way too small. Does your car have any water damage on the inside? My 82 wagon did a similar thing before I got the windshield gasket replaced as it was leaking from the bottom corner passenger side and soaking the wires that run next to the heater blower. Its a good corner for mice too.

Thats a killer idea! Looking at that you could weld on a piece of 3/4" "L" and make your own. You can bend that stuff fairly easily at a shop too, for the odd corners, or snip and weld it to shape. For that matter any machine shop could brake you a piece to fit just the tailgate. I figure I'm going to have to go this route because thats the only piece I'm missing. (but now I'm not so sure....)

Dee is right. The a/c box is their favorite. Its a pain in the rump roast but you will find the rest of their nest most likely in there.

Did you check the float? They get bounced around in shipping quite a bit and can get damaged. Truthfully, I've only installed two, but both were off.

Thanks, I just don't want to have to be doing head gaskets every few years like my cv boots.

I was referring to the E10 gas and the way its needed on the new lawn equipment. Thanks El Pres. Im just wondering if there can be a shorter lifespan for our hoses and gaskets. There is only one place in town that sells 100% gas and you do see a difference in driving it but thats not what I'm really concerned with. I know no engine was designed to run ethanol before 95. Now with the flex fuel cars being designed to run 15% or more ethanol and I hear that stuff can damage and foul pre 95 cars, I'm just asking about our newer gaskets and stuff and how they will be affected. My new chainsaw was ran for 2 years. I let my dad borrow it and run it for a year. He used regular pump gas and standard oil mix. It fouled on him and he took it to the shop. The guy showed him the parts on it fully corroded and said, "Go buy a new saw." So I got a new Stihl. These things are concerning!

He said its an 82'....Computer code? lol. You got a reader for a one-off year car?

Since I cant run my saws with the pump gas, how does this effect all our old cars? Do new the gaskets help? This thought makes me depressed.

I have a 2" lift on my ea81 and I would not do it again. It suffices but its a pain to get in. Just go for a 3". It gives you room for a wrench and itll be easier to find a way to connect the steering using stock parts.