soobscript

I'm interested. Depends on final price and features of course. Is that rough $300 figure including the sensors?

I will have MS someday, but I will build my own. ...unless you can sell it cheaper...

I wanted that motor...

Call me crazy, but 200hp at the wheels for 40K miles on stock HG's seems fine to me. 75%+ over stock on stock parts is acceptable at least. As long as nothing gets cooked... It's the first HG job that is a pain. Each following job is quicker, cleaner, and easier, plus the tools are ready. --Ed

My turbo did that for a while. Switching from 87 octane to 93 almost made it go away, then it only happened at WOT. Timing was advanced too far (eyeballed it without gun). Set timing correctly, now it's all fixed. Hasn't happened again on two tanks of 93 or half a tank of 87. I hope it's that easy for you.

Mine did something like that. It became more frequent and worse. Eventually the car would not move, although it was running fine. Reason: Inside of hub got stripped out. Cause: 'flat' axle washer put on wrong. I got a 10 mile tow home. Then I swtiched on the diff lock and had some fun in the gravel farm lot before pulling into the garage.

What is the real Subaru name for my paint? Paint code 828, white, 1988 RX coupe. http://www.paintscratch.com/ says it is "Extra White"

No. Cams, belts, and everything else are dead on. I forgot to say that.

Tested last night. That would be 120 psi for the driver's side #2-4, 75 for #1, and 85 for #3. Test was done with engine warm, no spark plugs, throttle open, using starter. Oil was added to the low cylinders one at a time. Both went up to 95 psi for one test. I have no idea how much oil actually went into each cyl, but there was definitely more in #1 (also had the bigger increase from 75-95). Rings? The car shakes side-to-side at idle (makes sense now). Idle is also low and erratic. Also uses more oil than I'd like. Other reasons for shaking could be coolant temp sensor not connected (corroded wire broke), junk mounts (motor and tranny), no emissions stuff connected, old plug wires. Other than that she runs like a champ, pulls hard, sees WOT and 6K rpms frequently. Just needs WOT to start because of the CTS. History: Before the head job: I drove it with a blown HG for 40K miles, who knows how long the previous owner did. Oil in coolant, 1 quart of oil lost every 300-500 miles (mostly burning I think), and coolant loss. Just before the rebuild: coolant loss increased (summer-time); I take my eyes of gauges for 2 mins max during easy driving on the coolest recent day, look down, temp near max, oil pressure near zero. Stopped, cooled, re-started. Hard to start, then shaky low idle, temp good for 10 mins, then starts shooting up and engine starts steaming/smoking, dies at idle, nearly impossible to restart. Repeat 5x, tow home, rebuild. MAJOR overheat, heads cracked. 1988 RX, EA82T, 230K miles on block, 4K miles on headgasket job. Heads pressure checked, resurfaced, valve job, new OEM oil and water pumps, all new OEM seals, new Delta 260 cams, reman Mizpah HVLAs, new NGK plugs, new OEM cap & rotor, new Purolator PCV, new fuel filter, new hoses, everything super-cleaned before assembly, heads re-torqued. Block internals left alone except for oiling cyl walls, cleaning piston tops, cleaning crud from the bottom by oil pan. Wow, that turned out kinda long. Sooo, is it my rings? HG?

Here's another: http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET

Here is an excellent pic by Skip. I couldn't find the post it was in. When positioned in the vehicle the orientation of the WGDS will not match. Top in pic will be bottom in car, left side in pic will be closest to fender. That input line will also have an "extension" vacuum line.

Shoot an email to theclutchplace@aol.com Give your car info and what you want (clutch, PP, both bearings). That's what I did! --Ed

BUMP I want to know too.

Yeah, pull the actual cable out from the end to put the tab in the tranny slot. Then slide the threaded part down and screw it in. Don't ruin the plastic threads either. Depending on how old the cable is, it would be a good idea to grease the whole thing. Unhook the end from the gauge, remove from vehicle, pull the entire cable out from the sleeve, clean, grease, replace.

What they said plus time. I messed with mine for a while then I took it to the machine shop. Had them clean the pan when they were doing heads and cleaning other stuff, so it was basically free. I didn't even want to begin trying to clean the inside...

Just curious.... What are you going to be driving with fewer problems than your sube?

I bought one of those sets. 3000 miles on it so far and no complaints. All the bearings were much smoother than the old ones that got replaced.

Nice work. I know what it's like to do something like that in Flash. If you get bored, I'd like to see an RX from a 3/4 overhead-angle view...

The coolant passages look a lot better than mine did... Are those 9.0 or 9.5 compression pistons?

My weren't very loud, but they weren't very smooth. I took the door panels off and sprayed the roller-guides (right near the top) with lithium grease. It helped some but not much. Plus I have lines on my windows from where the lithium has rubbed of and collected dirt, and it's tough to remove. I think I need to remove the vapor barrier and get the tracks lubed up really well. I have no problem with the seals on my 88.

Yes on the coasting. I guess that's what I meant by decel. If any throttle is applied the sound goes away. ...My exhaust has been moved around a lot lately... *EDIT* I don't see any sig. The car is an '88 RX coupe.

...So who has pics of beauty rings? Hows about on painted wagon wheels with center caps?

Like title says. Car in sig, FT4WD, discs. New sound, seems to be more frequent. I didn't find anything like this with Search yet. Brake pressure makes no difference. In gear, neutral, clutch makes no difference. "random" coming and going, but I've narrowed it down to only on deceleration. Like a scraping, screechy thing. Knife on sheet metal maybe. Doesn't sound "regular", not very cyclic. Diff oil is good, u-joints probably need replaced, same with bushings, axles/bearings are unknown history (not touched in my 45000 miles, but front needed done a while ago). I haven't shaken or pulled on anything yet. Rear wheel bearings maybe? Anything to check besides pulling for play?

If you mail me a cd/dvd, I can encode/compress it. The Raptors are hungry. What are the quality settings now? video format, resoultion, bitrate, audio format, audio bitrate... --Ed

Will the air compressor thing really work? Just a joke? What about pump lubrication and corrosion protection?