soobscript

I recently got mine from the Clutch Place. I did everything thru email. Quick responses and good information. Cheapest source for same parts I could find on the internet. I am recommending it.

This is quoted from the 200mm light page: "These lamps include an adapter to change the location of the ground terminal since some genius decided it was a good idea to make this lamp different from all the rest of the sealed beams and the H4 bulb." Maybe this fixes the issue you describe?

Isn't that the car with the 94 amp GM alternator? I think there was something about it in one of the alt swap threads.

As far as wiring the amp goes... Can you bridge two or all of the channels together? Unless there is a miscommunication, you are only running the sub with 75w (1/4 of 300) or maybe 150 if you flippeded a "2-Channel" switch. Just trying to help you get the most out of it... FWIW, I've been runnning audio since I got my car a year and a half ago, and the previous owner was using a smaller setup. Two amps totalling 450w rms + a pair of fogs (that are on around 50% of run time). Alternator is unknown condition, was there when I got it. I have no issues.

dass hott I like the grille, mirror, and scoop combo, and the chrome of wheels, not design.

PIAA makes bulbs. Far brighter than SilverStars. A bit pricey though. Options Auto Salon is the cheapest I have found them. (Link to 9004) I am using the "PIAA 9004 BULB: XTREME WHITE PLUS 65/45W=120/95W" I highly recommend.

That's way too much oil consumption. Mine did that BEFORE the rebuild with 220k miles. Oil pressure is all wrong too. I would guess a pump seal.

My idle drops a little with lights and other electrical stuff turned on.

So SVX's really aren't useless after all. Nice. Definitely the startings of hotness. I wanna see the finished product. Are there 3 bulbs each side - high, low, and projector?

I have a similar noise. And others I do not like. Those oil pressures are normally closer to 45 and 5 psi when warm...

Yeah... my dad was messing around with it with me. I told him it was moving (or trying to) at the pedal-area end. He says no it's not and tries to move it. I say "NO, don't force it. Sheesh, you'll break it. Geez."

I think it would be sweet to do the complete overhaul as you have planned, but leave the exterior body alone. Whatever you are planning... engine, suspension, interior, roll cage, etc, but keep the outer panels original and worn. You can fix hinges, latches, motors, and linkages and whatnot. It'll should like a beater. Most people won't know what it is. Those that recognize it will know it's a 3 cylinder carbed turd. Quite the street sleeper... Would be a uniqe steed in the stable. My $0.02 ... --Ed

It might make a little sense when I'm looking at it. It's the standing on head torso twisting arm contortion that I am looking forward to most.

Maybe a harness (like the TPS) is not snug enuf?

Vaydee eenteresting... You MUST get a set of those modded and installed for a road test. Do you think jumping from thin to gear oil was too big of a first step? Draining it will be fun. I'm sure you've though about this, but if you are going to be testing many weights you might wanna start thinner and work to thicker. It would be cool to tell people your shocks are filled with some 10W-30 How much oil do they hold? [subscribes]

My dad's 91 Loyale wagon has had no heat for a couple years. Fans and settings work, but the slider is stuck. It's actually stuck at the top (max heat), but there is no warmth. If you try to move it, it will go about 1/4" but with tension that makes it go right back. I removed the plastic panel by pedals and can see that slider movement makes a white plastic gear arm move, so I think that linkage cable is good physically. I remember reading something about a valve that may be plugged causing the problem, but I haven't had any luck searching yet. Can someone point me in the right direction?

FUN to drive (AWD, turbo, 5 speed, and stiff springs) Especially in large unplowed parking lots in LO with DIFF LOCK. And all the neat little creature comforts typically found in much more expensive vehicles: auto windows, lumbar support, gauges, passenger door unlocks when driver door key is turned, pulling back on the wiper knob for a single swipe (great with Rain-X), adjusting seat height on the fly with the magic lever to freak out riders, steering wheel tilt is adjustable and retractable, selection for outside vent air, etc...

Just so you know: the OEM gasket set does not have everything and has a few extras. I have it written down somewhere, but off the top of my head I know it is missing the EGR gasket, timing cover seals for cams and crank pulley, and exhaust gaskets except those on heads.

Is the door edge guard the thing that runs vertical on the outside edge? (when door open) Or is it for the foot entry / rocker panel area? And the XT trim... is that around the fender or on the wheel itself?

I had mine cleaned by RC Engineering in CA. Small shop, very good, pioneers in the field. Others have used them too. Cost is about $25 per injector. They test before and after. Mine showed better flow, pattern, and uniformity. A search will help you. The link in my sig has pics of the test sheet I got. If you next-day ship them, you can have them back in 3 days. I can't really comment on performance improvements since I did so much other stuff at the same time and haven't been above 2nd gear or in boost yet. http://www.rceng.com/Default.htm --Ed

Are you talking about the cast line in the intake area that runs with the flow? I guess I can't really help, since I have no experience in the matter. But... I would grind it down. Hmmm... someone with a flow bench and spare parts (and spare time) should test out the best porting method for our heads.

Congrats!

It seems to be fixed. Started it with jumper cable from battery + to starter soleoid contact. Getting the boot off the big starter power wire was a lot tougher in the 10*F windchill than removing solenoid harness. Re-cleaned the starter solenoid harness, re-greased, and clipped it back on. Not sure now if it was fully inserted the first time. Maybe jiggled loose.

My resealed motor has evidence of some water in the oil... Not sure how bad yet. It has been warmed & cooled about 6 times. Mostly partially warmed while stationary. Driven 0.3 miles. Retorquing the heads right now. OEM gaskets with resurfaced uncracked heads. Are my block surfaces warped? It better make it long enough for the weather to warm. Then I could go with a carb or SPFI block... How much do forged pistons cost?...

I tried both of the compressors available at my local AutoZone, one lever type, and one screw type. Neither worked, they were designed for different engines - likely big american ones. I managed to get the springs out of two heads, but had a machine shop do all the work the other set. The method for removal was primitive and risky. I put a big piece of cardboard on the concrete floor and set the head over two blocks of wood so the valves were free to move. Used a block of wood on the floor and the box end of a combo wrench over the spring retainer. With a friend's help, applied pressure to the spring by leaning into / standing on the wrench, using the wood block as a fulcrum. With the spring compressed, used a magnet and curved needlenose pliers to grab the keeper halves.