soobscript

Okay, just ignore everything I said. Mine applies to EA82 turbo's, not EA81 carbs.

I have lights and everything. All terminals under the hood are spotless. I spent 4 months on a "reseal" job... I'll be checking voltage to the starter. I'm just hoping I didn't break the insides of my disty by letting it move while driving. But I would think it would die on me if that happened.

My RX got to move under it's own power for the first time in 4 months, and last night we got the first accumulation of snow - about 4". But now it won't start. Warmed it up, running fine, took 2 laps around the house, parked it. Go to start it 5 hours later and nothing. Battery is fine. Does not even attempt to crank. Gives a code 11, crank angle sensor, which is in the disty. Check my connections: battery, starter, disty harness, coil harnesses, coil and plug wires, fuses - all seem good. Coil primary resistance is good, both terminals get 12v. The car was running normal in idle when I turned it off. Seems that everybody with CAS issues has the engine die. On inspection I did find that my disty bolts were not tightened from timing it last night. It was completely free to adjust from ~0 to 26 deg. So it could have been advancing/retarding while I was driving. What can I check right now that I am screwing up? I will run thru the FSM flowchart tomorrow when I have light and hopefully less wind. I can also swap in the disty from a 91 SPFI.

Make sure the injectors are firing. Use screwdriver as stethescope on the injecor body with the handle by or on your ear. You should hear an obvious clicking. You could also remove the injector wiring harnesses one at a time. If the idle doesn't change when you pull one, that cylinder is not working. If the cylinder has spark and compression, it does not have fuel. Mine would idle roughly at 400-500 rpm when injectors 3 & 4 weren't firing. The initial high idle is normal - the aux air valve is getting the engine warmed up.

Is your car a turbo? If so, that would be the wastegate duty control solenoid. It activates the wastegate at max boost ~7 psi. It will click if the car is in test mode. Look below the steering wheel at the ECU (you may have to remove a plastic panel). Below it, here will be a male and female pair of black single-wire harnesses and green T-shaped single-wire harnesses. If you have an XT the connectors will be in the trunk. The green ones are for test mode. Disconnect the green ones to take it out of test mode. The black ones are for read memory. Green + black = clear memory. Keep the fuse in, put the correct size in if it is not 5A. Maybe someone put in test mode, didn't like the clicking, and pulled fuse?

Soaking and running with vinegar might work too. I think it's the acidity that breaks the gravy down. I have had good results in a couple clogged radiators. Maybe vinegar and then cascade?

bump

What everyone else has said... You will eventually realize that 'respect' from high school peers isn't what it seems to you when you are 16. Especially beacuse of the car you drive. Time will prove your car's worth. Letting them ride with you in the snow will help to make believers of them.

I likes the DP. You even opened up the rear flange. I'm guessing the cat internals are not stock. I bet you saved a bit on parts too. I would totally use that! FMIC = cool in more than one way.

Use the 3 close marks. Line up the center one with the pointer in the window of the flywheel housing. Do not use the ignition timing marks (10 A 0 B 10 20).

TTT I want to do the same on my 88 for different reasons. Temporary because my EGR and EVAP solenoids no worky. I will have neither solenoid present, no vac or elec connections. There are a few 1/4" vac lines running. Rubber, metal, on the fuel rail, and plastic connectors. Connections from intake boot to metal T to EVAP and wastegate duty solenoid to plastic T to EGR solenoid to EGR valve. Also intake manifold to EVAP purge control solenoid to EVAP canister. Or something like that. There are 4 lines on the EVAP canister. What should be done to bypass the systems? Plugs, breathers, bypass hoses? I have a bit figured out, but need some clarification on exactly what goes where.

Nice idea. I want to see it when it works. I need to see it when it works. I want to see it. Niiice idea. I don't know if this will help: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1995_Impreza_FSM/ What are you doing with the suspension? My grandpa has his own "junkyard" in central Ohio. Many, many VW beetles and buses. A small fleet of homemade VW-powered dune buggys (sand rails). And a couple dozen Things. --Ed

Weird. That would be a neat toy for $800. (If you can afford $800 toys.) His buyitnow price is $6700!

Fixed the injectors. The needle (pintle) was stuck from sitting around for too long. Did it myself because I didn't like the shipping options. $14 and two weeks round trip, or Next Day for $40. Pulled plastic cap off with pliers. PB Blaster on needle. Check needle position, push or pull to break from stuck position. Work it in and out with tape wrapped needlenose pliers. Verified operation. Ran brake cleaner thru pressurized. Re-lubed with Blaster. Replaced cap. Spray pattern may be affected. Now I just have to re-assemble and install the fuel rail. ... and hope that is my only remaining problem

AMSOIL makes filters. Oil-wetted foam. K&N flow with paper filtering.

Shawn is right about the OEM hose. But... I just replaced mine with fuel hose and new clamps. I have no idea how long it will last. Should last long enough to get replaced by silicone when I get a spyder. The size is 5/16 inch I.D. (on a turbo at least)

For checking the fuel pump: First, be quiet as you turn the key to ON. You should hear a hum / low-pitched-buzz from the passenger-rear tire area. That would be the fuel pump coming on and pressurizing. You can also connect only the 'test mode' connectors then turn key on. There will be clicking solenoids in the engine bay and the pump will cycle on and off. It will hum for a second or two then stop for like half of a second, and repeat that continuously. If there is no sound: Check for 12V on the fuel pump harness with key on. If there isn't any voltage there, it could be fuse relay (check for voltage with key on) {Haynes says it's under the passenger side dash} loose electrical harness connectors corroded wires broken or shorted That's what I do know. Let us know what you find.

DAAAAAmn!!! That must have been one serious knock. That's what happens when you use cheap gas... Anything cool planned for the rebuild?

Hmmm... the black plastic cap seems to be pushed into the injector body more on the non-working ones than the working ones. That would make the injectors open already (at least somewhat) and explain why they aren't clicking open. After some soaking, power cycling, pressure, and tapping... The non-working ones will squirt a little (more of a leak) without electricity, just pressure. No clicking. The working ones sure are fun to watch though. I now have test "equipment" consisting of alligator clips, test leads, a resistor, carb cleaner, pb blaster, rag, and an air compressor blow gun with fuel hose tip and filtered air. Might make a freezing yard run tommorrow.... Are XT 4-cyl mpfi n/a injectors the same as '88 RX mpfi turbo?

Synthetic is nice. I had similar results when I put AMSOIL 75w90 in my MT and LSD.

Got a look at the injectors... Both were dry on the tip (cylinder side), good ones are wet with gas (from my test earlier probably). They are getting fuel from the rail though. There were some teeny specs of debris (paint most likely) in the filter basket, but nowhere near enough to cover the filter's surface area. (New filters were part of the cleaning job.) The good ones have the pintle just below the plastic tip, but the bad ones are sticking out just a little. I thought they were all the same when I received them. Could the orientation of the filter basket be clogging them? (The structural part is a "V") Does the pintle retract to let fuel out? Any ideas why they haven't worked? Already did that... everything else has been ruled out, and I found the culprit.

Injectors do not work. I tested them with engine off. Good ones make a loud click, bad ones don't. I think they are making a very very faint click though. The resistance on all injectors is 2.5 ohms. That means the electrical circuit inside is good. Which means they aren't moving mechanically. Are those assumptions correct? Could they possibly be plugged? Or are they just broken? Calling the cleaners...

Electrical connections are good. Dizzy is in the only working position. I reset it to 0 deg and it ran. It doesn't want to keep running after it warms up a little, then the advanced timing is needed. It had been around 26 deg. I cleared my codes and the only one that came back is 44, waste gate duty solenoid. It only shows up in read memory mode. But that couldn't make two cylinders not work... I didn't take the fuel rail off today. I will find out for sure if fuel is going thru the injectors by giving them a direct ground, sniffing, and comparing with the good cylinders. I was wrong about hearing injector clicking when in test mode, I was hearing the fuel pump. On the camshaft - can the distributor gear be put on in only one position? I'm wondering if it was taken off for the grinding and put on wrong... It was already installed when I got the cams from Delta. The gear on the bottom of the dizzy can go on only one way (maybe two?), but it hasn't changed since the engine last ran.

They are rubber, a few mm thick, same shape as valve cover outline. The side toward the front of the engine has an arch (or hill, or half circle). If you have the front of the car jacked up to do the job, any oil that comes out will be from the bottom rear corner. Just place a towel or rag there as you remove the cover.

Spark is definitely good. I'm 95% sure that all injectors are ticking. I'm 80% sure that no fuel is getting into cylinders 3 & 4. Soooo... clogged injectors? Pulling the fuel rail tomorrow. In test mode with just the key on, it kept pulsing injector 4 and constantly clicked my wastegate duty solenoid (only one connected). The injector pulsed open for a long time (one second?) I could feel it click in the soft fuel rail lines, but no fuel was detectable in the cylinder. Every few seconds I could hear movement of liquid fuel, pressure regulator doing its job I think. After about 10 mins continuous of this, all the fuel hoses were super stiff and cold from the pressure buildup with none going thru the injector. Started it up and it ran on for a few seconds after killing the ignition. At least that's the way I figured everything... Should be getting compression gauge Tuesday night.