soobscript

Mine are all way below the specs listed in the '89 FSM (the online pdf). Wire my-ohms fsm-ohms coil 0.43k 2.5k-6.5k 1 1.25k 9.5-22k 2 0.5k 3-7k 3 2.1k 9.6k-22k 4 0.43k 2.5-5.5k (some spec numbers were rounded) Haynes and Chilton aren't helping. I am reading the meter correctly, and it works. Car in sig. Wires are Bosch 7mm, 40k miles I have on them, I dunno before that. Can the resistance be too low? Should I be happy because they are so low?

check "Stabilizer Bar" (first line) My '88 RX is 18mm front and 16mm rear. I want some XT6 20mm front and rear bars.

Got any more of that coupe trim? Mine has zero left (but no leaks). I would love to buy some if you have spare or a JY source. --Ed

Everything is Dupicolor Engine Enamel High Heat (500*). I'm getting some accidental bumpage as I'm putting stuff together. Parts that got primer are holding up very well, but parts with just paint will chip and flake easily. I have a nice 1/4 x 1" chunk missing from the center area of one of the cam sprockets. I picked up some spares at the yard to have powder coated in the (distant) future.

Hmmm... none of the pics are showing for me now. Musta hit the geocities bandwidth limit. :-\

[quote name='grossgary']run the fram for a little bit, i always change the oil quickly after having the motor open for anything anyway.[/quote] Good tip - that's why it was only gonna be on for a few minutes. [quote name='grossgary']how did you get the subaru letters colored differently on the valve covers? probably really simple but i know nothing about paint. looks cool though, probably gives it about 8hp wouldn't you say?[/quote] [quote name='DrKrazy']Indeed that's one heck of a job on the painting. Can tell you took your time and did it right. Looks great.[/quote] Time, time, and more time. Waaaaay too much time. Masked off with little pieces of masking tape then vaseline on a toothpick. Didn't come out perfectly - there are actually chunks of primer and bare metal showing in the letters, but you can't tell from an angle. I think each valve cover will give me 2 hp, but everything combined might hit 10-12 (there's more you haven't seen yet). Should be good for 15-20 once it's intercooled. I'm gonna have to start a new thread soon....

Made a little progress. Gotta pop the injectors in. The FRAM is only gonna be on there for a few minutes.

It's been sitting like this for a few days... It better be running this weekend. I might call off work tonight to spend some quality time. BTW, there's only 3 clutch fork dust seal boots left in the country (all in CT).

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram

I had been using OEM then PureOne filters. Stayed away from FRAM because of that lathe study. My motor blew 150 miles after sticking the first FRAM on it (purchased at walmart). I can't prove anything though... AMSOIL or Royal Purple (maybe Redline too) now that engine is resealed. Was using Castrol or Mobil because I didn't want to pay for a quart of synthetic every 400 miles (every 2-3 days).

Interesting... Got any info or links?

I just skimmed the page but it says "Subaru diesel engine built at the VRI". Does not sound like a Subaru production engine. More interesing to me is the "Turbocharged, intercooled natural gas 4 cylinder Subaru which set a record at Bonneville Salt Flats for methane fuel". "Vehicle Research Institute at Western Washington University". Funny how that seems to be the soob Mecca in the USA.

I vote on a backwards or bad "flat" washer, assuming the castle nut was torqued. That's how I stripped mine. Hubs should last forever if they don't rust.

I hope to be able to let out a w00t this weekend. On a related note... Ford Tempos suck

Slotted rotors "cut" into the brake pad to keep the friction surface fresh. Uses pads much faster, increased dust, harder initiial bite. Faster stops from my very limited experience.

Nice score! We're waiting on pics... No need for the dog house. Fold down the back seats in the RX and lay a sleeping bag down

Do they list the number for the flange? Exhaust gaskets: 44022 GA340 GASKET FOR TURBO *exhaust port on head, turbo 44022 GA330 GASKET FOR MPFI *exhaust port on head, non-turbo 44022 GA210 GUSKET T INLET *up-pipe to turbo 44022 GA220 GASKET T OUTLET *turbo to down-pipe 44022 GA191 GASKET *down-pipe to cat

I guess the really small working space. And aluminum.

Fiiiinally.... After 3 months things are getting assembled. Where I am now: An idea of why it's taking so long: (that's the oil pan) I *hope* to get it running Sunday...

I saw seat cracks in mine (all 4 cyls). Had my heads pressure tested at a machine shop. After taking the valves out, cracks like yours - 1/2" on one head 3/4" on the other. Neither leaked on the bridge cracks, both leaked in the exhaust port. I dunno what's the worst that could happen, but you have cracked heads. My head gaskets and/or heads had been leaking for a while. I got lucky and found a pair of good gen3 heads at a JY for $25 each. I would recommend you replace them, because they can't really be fixed. I also have no experience in this area though. --Ed

Subaru 4wd + snow = fun Enjoy!

Yup, makes sense. I have a cookie for whoever decided to key the flywheel I didn't realize it at first because I had it in the right position the first try. Next attempt the holes didn't line up. "WTF" I sez.

So the cams can go on in the easiest position (no compressed valves) then just have to move them around for the timing belts. I do have the marks on the flywheel, but the flywheel was removed when the crank moved. I just played with it a little. It appears the flywheel bolt holes are keyed... So it can only go on one way to make thing really easy? Is that correct?

Installing cam cases on EA82. All timing references have been moved or removed (sprockets, disty, flywheel, crank/pistons). What position should the cams be in when bolted to the heads? The key pin straight up on both sides with #1 TDC? --Ed

Just a note on the PCV... Most of the valves I have seen are fine, but the hose(s) are completely clogged. Which makes the valve about useless.