soobscript

I had to fix the broken lines on mine. It's a liquid (metal in solvent) with an applicator brush. I searched and asked at 10 different parts stores, plus every department store I was in. Finally went to the nearby NAPA distribution center, they had 2 units in the back. (None of the 7 regular NAPAs carried it.) Hard to find. I had 3 working lines when I got my RX. I fixed about 7 cracks and gaps. Only half of the lines worked. Eyeballed each line very close and found another dozen tiny cracks. I hope yours is not as bad as mine.

Wow, I wouldn't have guessed that long.

I'm partly done painting parts on my RX. Car is white with red and accents. Engine paint scheme includes red and gloss black, mostly clear coated too. Duplicor Engine Enamel hi-temp (500*). Valve covers (two color), top intake, pulleys (no-timing-cover conversion), intake manifold, fuel filter holder, waterpump pipe, maybe fuel rail and dog bone. And depending on how the machine shop cleaned them: oil pan, front corner splash/skid guard things, and cam towers. I have teaser pics, but nothing is assembled and not all colored. VERY VERY VERY time-consuming... I would powdercoat if I could. --Ed

A) I didn't touch block or rings, so break-in not an issue. Vote for synthetic oil. But... I already bought some filters and cheap oil to flush with (Rislone or/and AMSOIL flushes) in the first few minutes and early oil changes. Guess I still have to work that schedule out. Vote for regular then switch. On another note... I have freshly ground cams to be installed. I think I read it is best to not idle but run engine at 2-3K rpms in first few minutes to break them in. (After running and oil pressure is up of course.) That sound right? (gonna be another thread for this I'm sure) --Ed

Why?

Thanks guys! Didn't think about grease not dissolving. I'll use assembly lube with no dino oil. Gotta find out how much the local shop wants for the Valco stuff.

What he said. I've got a sack full. I'm assuming they're good and work. My bill was around $53 for 8 of them and shipping.

Getting ready to put engine back together (heads and up). Bought some assembly lube for precoating cams and stuff and holding rockers in place. From the info provided, I think I'd be better off using the Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease I have and returning the unopened lube. Right or wrong? I will be using synthetic oil. [front] Lubriplate No. 105 Motor Assembly Grease Especially for Motor Rebuilding and other automotive applications [back] Lubriplate No. 105 (the original white) Grease Petroleum Oil (Grease) Motor Assembly Grease - This white, soft bodied grease provides a smooth anti-wear, anti-seize coating to the internal parts of engines and transmissions. Provides instant lubrication during initial start up before the motor oil has circulated. Prevents damage from scuffing, scoring and friction. Protects newly machined parts from rust. Also excellent for lubricating hinges, locks and latches. Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease [from website] All Mobil 1® products, just like the Mobil 1 family of motor oils, protect hardworking parts from temperature extremes, rust and wear. In fact, the same synthetic technology found in our motor oil is used in our fully synthetic grease. Mobil 1 Synthetic Universal Grease provides excellent protection against rust, corrosion and water washout. It's suited for wheel bearings, ball joint suspensions, steering linkages, and king pin and chassis lube points. Benefits: Excellent resistance to rust and corrosion. Good shock loading protection. Excellent resistance to water washout. Outstanding lubrication over a wide temperature range. Opinions?

Some part #s for reference. All is quoted from the sheet in the box. Typo's are courtesy of FHI although I already fixed some. Sorry about the formatting. SUBARU X1041AA014 ENG GASKET & SEAL KIT This Engine Gasket & Seal kit applies to 1.8L (for MPFI & Turbo) models of 1985MY and after and consists of the following component parts. Line # Part # Part Name Q'ty 1 11832 AA002 GASKET, OIL SEPR COVER 1 2 8067 76011 OIL SEAL, 76 x 93 x 10 1 3 8039 26020 GASKET, 26.2 x 31.5 x 1 4 4 8039 14030 GASKET, 14.5 x 20 x 1.2 1 5 11071 AA000 "O" RING, CYL BLOCK 1 6 8067 38070 OIL SEAL, 38 x 59 x 9 1 7 8069 10110 "O" RING, 10 x 2 1 8 15261 AA000 GASKET, AIR BREATER 1 9 11044 AA013 GASKET, CYL HEAD 2 10 8039 12030 GASKET, 12.5 x 18 x 2 2 11 8053 22010 CIR CLIP, IN 22 8 12 13089 AA010 "O" RING, 12 x 1.9 2 13 8069 58020 "O" RING, 58 x 2 2 14 13210 KA000 COLLET, VALVE 16 15 13272 AA001 GASKET, ROCKER COVER LH 1 16 13270 AA001 GASKET, ROCKER COVER RH 1 17 13271 AA003 WASHER, ROCKER COVER 9 18 13591 KA000 MOUNT CP, BELT COVER 7 19 21116 AAA001 SEARING, WATER PUMP 1 20 13588 AA000 SEARING, BELT COVER 1 21 11121 AA001 GASKET, OIL PAN 1 22 11126 AA000 GASKET, DRAIN PLUG. 1 23 15066 AA000 GASKET, OIL PUMP BODY 1 24 8069 45020 "O" RING, 45.7 x 2.4 1 25 11072 AA030 GASKET, THERMO HOUSING 1 26 21114 AA000 GASKET, WATER PUMP 1 27 8039 10050 GASKET, 10 x 14 x 1 4 28 8039 12040 GASKET, 12 x 16 x 1 2 29 14035 AA160 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD 2 30 16175 AA070 GASKET, THROT CHAMBER 1 31 44022 GA330 GASKET FOR MPI 2 32 44022 GA340 GASKET FOR TURBO 2 33 13207 KA001 SEAL, INT 4 34 13211 AA030 SEAL, EXH 4 35 13583 AA040 SEALING, BELT CVR RH 1 36 13585 AA000 SEALING, BELT CVR LH 1 37 13581 AA000 SEALING, BELT CVR FR 1 38 13582 AA000 SEALING, BELT CVR RR 1 39 14073 AA040 GASKET - WAT PIPE #2 1 40 14072 AA050 GASKET - WAT PIPE 1 41 16608 AA000 SEAL - FUEL INJECT 4 42 14468 AA010 GASKET - AUX AIR VLV 1 43 14072 AA060 GASKET - WAT PIPE 2 44 14035 AA170 GASKET - COOL 2 45 8067 38040 OIL SEAL - 38 x 55 x 9 2 Other stuff I got: 44022 GA210 GUSKET T INLET 1 exhaust gasket, up-pipe to turbo 44022 GA220 GASKET T OUTLET 1 exhaust gasket, turbo to down-pipe 44022 GA191 GASKET 1 exhaust gasket, down-pipe to cat 15020 AA011 SPR-RELIEF VALVE 2 oil relief valve spring (cam tower) 30539 AA000 CLIP-CCH SLEEVE 2 clutch release bearing retaining clip 45161 GA490 HOSE RAD IN 2 radiator hoses (same top & bottom) 15010 AA016 PUMP ASSY - OIL 1 oil pump with pressure sender X2111 AA017 W/PUMP GASKET KIT 1 water pump with gasket and o-ring

I can help out with the conversion... --Ed

I think so. I'd like to know as well, maybe .050 over? http://www.deltacam.com/index.php XT6 guys can chime in now...

Hate to admit it, but I killed my first car that way. Hand-me-down semi-beater Crown Vic 5.0 (lightweight cast iron body) started acting funny on the highway. There was never an autopsy, but I know the cause of death was "complete seizure due to lack of oil." I have learned a couple things since then....

All parts are finally on the way. But... machine shop called and said both my heads have cracks into the exhaust ports. Must have been very very hot and that's what made my valve guides move too. So now I just need to find a pair of good gen 3 turbo heads...

Dual Range. Hi (normal) 3.700*1.000=3.700, Lo 3.700*1.203=4.451.

Hey, now the pic works!

Mizpah HVLA's arrived. Minor rust on frame under fender removed and cold galvanize painted. All parts to be painted are primed. Broke a bolt extractor removing the first screw holding bumper cover on, after 4 PB Blaster overnight soaks. Heads to machine shop tomorrow. Some parts on the way.

I have an 87 Mazda B2000 pickup at my house. Just measured the 6-lug wheels. I could be off by a couple mm, but holes were 6 x 140mm and center hole was 95mm, same as soobs. They're 15" or 14" and I don't know the width. Just another option to try. --Ed

I hope you two have lots of energy. You're going to need it with that Husky. My family's favorite breed. Our husky/pitbull mix (pure on the husky side) just had a litter with a chocolate lab. The pup we kept got run over. :sad: Beagle + St. Bernard, how weird is that? We rescued a beagle and now they're my 2nd favorite. "Git dem wabbits!"

I have one! (1988 w/ "inside" alt and "outside" AC)

BUMP!!! Aren't the clutch discs the same, pressure plate has the difference?

What exactly did not work with the XT6 clutch kit and EA82 flywheel combo? Was it a 2wd/4wd turbo/na issue? Seems that it works fine according to posts here. Clutch for modified EA82T. --Ed

I don't know if this info is out there already, but Delta's EA82 cams are the same for turbo and NA. I was afraid they sent me NA cams for my turbo because there was no T on the receipt and the order went a little too smoothly (they had some in stock). Just gave them a call. They said they use the turbo grind for all setups. Noted improved performance and simple billing. So has anyone stuck stock turbo cams in a NA car?

Good link to the lifter fix. I've got it saved now. I'm replacing the check valve spring. Sweet! only $5.75 for each one, and I get to keep mine! For $60-80 each I would clean 'em up and say screw it, but that cheap might as well replace with everything else while the engine's out.

I have heard mention of remanufactured HVLA's from Mitzpah Engineering, but Google gives me nothing good. Anyone know how can I contact them? --Ed