soobscript

I'm still coming in my RX. Bringing tools and stuff...

Time to get more sponsors, maybe a body shop or collision center. I'm trying to imagine a Six Million Dollar RX

I can't see through it, but I can see all the way inside from each opening. It does like an 'S' curve lengthwise inside. Here's a pic from the site, but mine is center/offset not offset/offset like shown. Oh, just saw this... Heading to the muffler shop in a few.... *fingers crossed*

Bump! 2 More....

I'll be there Sat & Sun... I'll try to find my tent a sibling borrowed. I have surplus firewood available at home if needed. Coolers too. alleyboy: I'll check on a kettle or large cast iron pot. I know we have lots of pans and skillets. I'll bring some deer summer sausage and some distilled spirits. I might be able to borrow a DV cam to bring. I'll bring a tow strap, tools for junking... Should I bring any jacks or stands? Anybody have a front axle? (driver side if it matters) Ball joint?

The tailpipe after muffler on my 88 RX has corroded through. Exhaust has deformed my rear bumper and eaten a hole thru the floor. Obviously needs fixed. I got a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler new off ebay (mfg. link). It has center inlet and offset outlet (stock is offset / offset, top & bottom). 2.25" pipe both ends. Want to install it - if not possible, then replace tailpipe. Stopped at two muffler shops for estimates to install. Monro said no way without extensive fabrication, no stock tailpipes available, different size pipes. Local (recommended) shop says no problem, maybe $50. ...But he didn't look at it on a lift, just on ground. Problem is where pipe runs over rear crossmember(right name?), plus it's on a curve. What is stock RX pipe size? Can I use the new muffler backwards, with reverse flow? (offset inlet, center outlet)? Anyone have experience with this?

Me too!

NOOOOO!!! I just got the news! Your RX is (was?) a major inspiration for me. I'll toast to it tonight So, not parting anymore? Rear bumper?

No replies in a while, so I'll hijack My speedo doesn't work. Stopped after messing around firewall area. Have plugged cable securely to gauge several times... nothing. Never a problem before. Got to do some troubleshooting last night. Disconnected cable from speedo, drove with finger on it... it moves. Good. Plugged in, no good. Unplug, push spinny part in with some finger pressure, hook up, kinda works. VERY sluggish / stop-and-go. Drive another mile to work. Speedo dead when I leave. Removed, pressed, installed, no good. Should you be able to pull on the inner (rotating) part? How far should it come out? I pulled mine about 4 inches, but put back because I didn't know if it was supposed to. Is the inner part broken somewhere? Does it need lubed? How? On the manual tranny, what tool to loosen connection? I looked at it, but it seemed hard to reach. --ED Do

My List (to add votes for the popular ones ) ====================================== Skid plates, front and rear, engine, y-pipe, diff., axles Push bar / brush guard, eventually with optional mounts for lights or winch Fender flares for hatchback Hood scoop sized for EA82's Hubs with common bolt pattern Forged pistons and other internals once you get the computerized R&D facility up and running. XTREME Headlight Fluid anything 2 make old soobs 2 fast and/or 2 furious

Still dark out?

Me too

Windshield for 88 RX? misc. BLUE nylon interior fasteners?

I didn't get to bearings yet. I did find that my drivers side (the problematic one) caste nut was loose. I KNOW the bearing is bad. Not sure if my issues are all bearing or if any are joint-related. All boots are good. While the axle is out, should I bother with taking boots off, rebuilding, and replacing? Or just assume they are good and take care of the bearings, and see what happens. (Then replace axles if bad?) My time is limited, both on unnecessarily rebuilding joints and/or removing the axle again to do it.

My dad had been removing one of his fuses to turn his lights off for a couple years. Well, actually inserting the fuse when he needed lights. Only one finger on left hand... had to take a knee outside everytime. That was til I installed a switch for him. Then I got an RX, found this board, found out that he already had a switch!

Make a cast then some replicas... I wikey a-wot

I want one when they're ready.....

Planning to get work done Saturday. Bearings will be taken care of. I might have joint issues as well (clunk on right turns with load). No tears or grease trails. Will they be easy to check with the axles removed? Should I open boots and re-grease-ify even if they seem okay? What's best repair route if I find a bad CV? --Ed

So the axle disconnects from the spline or whatever coming out of tranny? The CV and DOJ don't get messed with? Or would it be good to re-pack the joints since I just hit 196k miles?

Thanks for all the replies! Will I need to remove the driveshaft to do the bearing job? Are these a replacement or just re-lube?

Going to be packing my front wheel bearings when I do my brakes, but I've never packed bearings before... I have a tub of RonexMP hi-temp bearing grease, hammers and wood for "assembly", and Haynes and Chilton manuals (that are pretty vague on my '88 RX). What else do I need? Special tool to take apart? Seals? Also, do I need any parts for all-corner brake job beside pads and rotors?

It looks a little better. :-p Good work, how long did the grinding/sanding take? --Ed

I do up to 3 hrs. a day highway in my RX. 75 mph = 4000 rpm. Usually shift around 3k, but it's seen 6k a few times since I got it. (BTW, 195k engine with gasket problems)

So when did you say you were getting on the dyno?

The guy I bought my RX from told me that the roof had an extra roll bar than other models. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it also has the kickass gauges (oil p., temp, volt, gas, car display) that didn't come until later in other models (my 88 RX has same gauges as my dad's 91 Loyale).