soobscript

i would pay for a dvd of the event

My dad's wagon was doing the same thing for a long time. Went thru a winter with no heat. A white plastic gear down by the gas pedal got off track. Just had to remove the lower dash cover and sqeeze in there with a flashlight.

Grease. I used AMSOIL bearing/all-purpose out of the grease gun.

That's normal if you don't have the green "test mode" plugs connected. ECU is continuously making spark timing adjustments. The test mode plugs must be connected when setting (or checking) the timing. ECU stops the dynamic adjustment. In a turbo, look for a male/female pair of green T-shaped connectors under the dash. Right next the the black code check plugs. (possibly incorrect: ) Non-turbo's have the plugs under the hood by the wiper motor. Green test and white code check. XT's have the plugs in the trunk. Lots of plug info if you search for checking CEL / error codes.

i vote F

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ HTKYSA has great illustrations and wording for beginners.

I thought that the Coupe windshield is bigger than the Sedan / Wagon / Hatch, and does NOT interchange (like the doors). I know it sits at a different angle to the car (flatter, better aero).

FT4WD == AWD Same function, different names. The FT4WD center diff is normally open, but can be locked with the switch for a 50/50 front-rear split (aka 4WD). The AWD box has a viscous-type limited-slip center differential, aka LSD. (this is how i understand it, i haven't actively researched, i could be wrong, i also don't know which AWD boxes have the viscous center) The newer AWD is better on street than the open-centered FT4WD, but the locked FT4WD is better offroad. Is it possible to put a viscous center into the FT4WD? That would make it LSD by default and manually lockable (plus dual range)

hells yeah. 'round here in the rust belt i don't see many old-gens. i have always flashed them the horns when i do i guess i'm not alone unfortunately, most i see are dedicated beaters i also salute well-modded ej's

TWE = Tech Works Engineering (or TechWorks)

Water Wetter (Red Line makes some) silicone hoses are good

The RX Brat I thought of making would have been awesome. an STi BRAT....

GM did own 20-30% of SUBARU, but they sold it to Toyota.

I bought and used the kit. Can't say much because I ran into a pole after 5000 miles.

Methinks itwood be cheaper to pay freight for a tool than for your brother (and I'm not paying for food). I nailed the alignment once. Got close another time, but it took half and hour to get it right...

Note taken... I'm sick of smelling curry anyway.

Cranks great. 2.5L Mitsu V6 - has an old fashioned distributor (surprise!) It ran when parked and the starting fluid does something. Has fuel to injectors. Since it took me over 2 hours to get at the rear spark plugs and cap, I will replace all ignition stuff. Next I'm checking for clogged injectors. (fuel filter requires seat revmoval and dropping tank...)

I want to borrow or buy somebody's tool. (for EA82T) I'm doing an engine swap and other stuff next week. I want to save some time, effort, and headache. --Ed

Will starting fluid auto-ignite? (Fire without spark, only compression) ==================================================== I'm trying to trobleshoot my sister's car (not a soob, 98 Sebring :-\ ). It won't start. Worked fine when she parked it. Then wouldn't start in the morning. Starter good, battery good, connections good, no computer codes, all ignition parts could use a replacement but are in fine working condition. ================================================ When I give it some starting fluid it will fire a couple times.

Citrus flushes are highly recommended on diesel sites I frequent. I have used vinegar several times with good results. Gets the gray chunky/flakey deposits out. Best if you remove radiator, fill with vinegar, let sit for hours/days, flush with hose, rinse out with distilled water. I have also run raw vinegar thru the whole system for a several minutes as the first step in a flush process.

Anybody tried this?

So I picked up a 86/87 wagon with part-time 4wd dual-range. (FWD, 4HI, 4LO) I have a wrecked RX with the FT4WD dual-range. (HI, LO) I'd like to use the RX tranny, but its linkage parts are bent. I figure the 5-speed stuff will be identical. Do the D/R linkages interchange? Will I be able to use 2/3 of the PT's range on motion?

+1 - that's where I got mine. Brand new, 2-row, all metal (brass), stock fitment, CSF brand, $130 shipped.

Coolness. I thought I might have read that there were like 27 and 29 splined versions.

I put the hubs from my '88 turbo onto the axles of my '86 carbed. They seemed to fit fine, haven't driven it yet. I know the tranny side of the axles have different splines (25 / 23). Are the hub ends the same? Am I going to strip the splines when I drive?