soobscript

rebuilt engine (except shortblock) new pumps & seals (all OEM), reman'd HVLAs Delta Cams injectors cleaned new 2-Row radiator, ALL new hoses Sachs XT6 pressure plate with WJM Rallye Sport Stage 2 kevlar disc turbo P&P - custom DIY Dynomax SuperTurbo muffler K&N drop-in air filter - intake silencer removed new brakes PIAA headlights & fogs audio, etc. custom body work:

http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro.html

They are also made in Australia... Shipping time/cost is high.

I use AMSOIL ...and love it. As far as the oil analysis kit goes... I don't think it will tell anything about wear on our old high-mileage motors. I think that requires detecting metal particles. Much more useful for newer (and less durable) engines. My EA82T still had factory crasshatching at 230K miles. The kit WOULD be very handy to test oil condition. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

I looked at an '87 GL-10 with only 86K miles... but the body structure was rusted. Dad's '91 SPFI Loyale has 156K. I killed my RX with 235K.

So was the 7200rpm intentional? Drag? "Spirited" driving?

Well you learn something new everyday... I've only done one axle/bearing job. Spring out seemed like the only right way to do it. I haven't had any grease leak in over 30K miles.

wanna sell it? double your money!

I put the "flat" side in, and the "spring/flap" side out toward CV/hub.

FWIW, mine idled fine with cracked heads...

You can get a Stant replacement cap at any auto parts store for about $3.

Nice work! Any specific models/years to look at when solenoid hunting?

Does your new radiator have the piping for the AT fluid? You could just cool it through there. My 3.5L Mopar runs the ATF thru the radiator and another cooler. Standard ATF is fine (whatever is recommended), but AMSOIL makes ATF as well.

The little lever on the floor by the door in my RX coupe pops the fuel door if you push down, and pops the hatch if you pull up. I'd imagine you can hook up a latch motor and solenoid to actually "pop" the hatch up.

You don't need to discharge the AC system. Just remove the compressor mounting bolts (might have to take some belts off too). Then you can move the whold thing out of the way, the lines are flexible.

I love the paint job. Mine has a similar scheme. Word of caution: the paint in my pulley grooves wore of by the belt. The paint dust made the clean painted engine dirty in that area. I ended up taking the belts off, sracping the remaining paint off, and de-dusting with brake cleaner. !!! DO NOT PAINT THE BOLT MOUNTING SURFACES ON ANY PULLEYS !!! (especially the crank) !!! DO NOT PAINT CAM SPROCKET TEETH !!!

You checked them right. No connectors show current codes. Black connectors show history. First you need to clear your codes. This gets rid of old codes that are no londer relevant. Connect the blacks (history) and the greens (test mode) and start the car, let it run for a minute. Turn it off, disconnect plugs. Turn key on - this will show you current codes. Connect black plugs, turn key on - make sure all you erased all the old codes (only current one(s) should show). (disconnecting the battery for a while will also clear codes) Coolant temp sensor is very common. The harness plug is probably corroded. Clean it, make sure all 4 contacts are clean (2 on sensor, 2 on plug), apply dielectric grease if you have it, reconnect. After "fixing" your CTS, clear ECU trouble codes again. Then re-check codes and you should be good.

I replied to your PM, but I'll throw this out in the open. That is the exact unit I used. It works for turbo, I don't know why it says non-turbo. 2 row, all-metal, CSF, perfect OE mounting, has holes for auto tranny fluid. Thicker than stock (since it is 2-row), so less room to work on front of engine. I removed my mechanical fan, no use for it. Actually, I drove around for over a month without any fan...

http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1988+SUBARU+RX++%2D+1%2E8+liter+H4+RADIATOR+Name+Brand+NON+TURBO+2%2DRow+All+Metal+Upgrade&part_id=40020&aaia_id=1270202 That's what I bought. CSF brand. All metal. Perfect fit. Identical to the old one I pulled out. The picture is correct.

those codes are correct. Skip's mock-up of the WGDS setup: (note that the physical orientations aren't accurate) my strut tower stuff unhooked: (labels could be wrong, memory is foggy, Skip's are correct for sure though) even without the TURBO light on, are you getting boost?

How much for shipping to Ohio? Insured for the value of the vehicle, of course.

My sister has a beater 91 Corolla with over 220K miles. Engine is still running fine. But body is rusted, brakes need work, CV needs replaced, exhaust hole before cat, 2 door handles don't work, 1 door doesn't open and 1 only opens halfway, 2 of the (manual) windows don't track, etc, etc. The auto tranny shifts fine however.

I haven't actually seen one of the boards in question, but: Just because all the circuit board traces are the same doesn't mean that the chips on the board are programmed the same, or have the same pin connections. Call me crazy, but WRONG ECU is the very FIRST thing I would suspect to cause the problems Gary has been having. I think a N/A motor should have a N/A ecu. Also, I would match SPFI and MPFI N/A motors to matching ECUs. What ECU do you have coming?

yep, nailed the Subaru grille emblem. engine got pushed back and up, dogbone is bent at like 30 degrees. i still need to get the hood open, but everything looks intact. can't say the same thing for the 5000 mile 2-row radiator though, or the rest of the car for that matter. right now i'm betting it runs. SUBARU, FTW! [/hijack]

I'll give you fifty bucks for the set! I like em a lot. Especially if they are that light. I don't remember them on the wheels page either. Are they 13"? Looks like Subaru center caps might fit...