soobscript

2 weeks ago:

I think you are talking about either the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid or the EGR Solenoid. On a turbo, there are two units right beside each other on the intake manifold that look almost identical. Quite possible it wasn't working in the first place (I dunno haow many miles you have). IF it was working to begin with, you won't notice any definite difference now that it is broken. You can test replacement units at the junkyard by measuring the electrical resistance between the two wire connectors. The plastic vac connectors like to break off. Picture of a turbo engine taken from passenger strut tower area:

uh, yeah...

Green "T" ...on my 88 (87.5+) I do not have them under the hood.

There are 3 units on the strut tower: Resistor pack for fuel injectors - only connection is a wire harness (about 5 wires, i don't remember exactly) WGDS - one electrical, 3 vac hoses boost pressure switch - turns on the TURBO light in dash gauges when boosting - electrical & vac connections With a turbo ECU, the WGDS needs to be plugged in, but doesn't need vac connections (you can run a hose from turbo outlet to wastegate for reference). Are you trying to make the NA motor run on a turbo ECU?

My RX would not start when I unplugged the WGDS during troubleshooting. I don't remember if it cranked or not.

I got genuine OEM Subaru headgaskets from 1stSubaruParts.com for about $25 each. Subaru part sticker and everything. 1stSubaruParts and SubaruGenuineParts have exactly the same pricing on many things.

I applied generous amounts of high quality assembly lube while everything was apart before priming. If the engine has been sitting for a while, I would remove the timing belts and turn the oil pump.

If your rims are wider than stock, 205/50-15's work well. [plug] I actually have a set of Michelin Pilot super summer tires mounted on 15" Allied Armament 4-lug wheels for sale in the classifieds section... LINK [/plug] --Ed

unplug fuel pump electrical connector (under car by rear right wheel) remove coil wire remove spark plugs (optional) turn key to crank engine for a few seconds at a time repeat cranking until oil pressure is good (about 6 times i think) plug stuff back in let 'er rip!

NOOOOOO!!! That body looks so clean! Get them mirrors while you're there.

Follow up: Got it fixed. By gas pedal there are two white plastic gears. They must have slipped at some point, weren't catching. Unscrewed one of them, slid the other off, positioned correctly, fastened, tested, good as new!

AMSOIL

My experience: 88 RX turbo With stock 200k-mile engine, unknown timing (it ran fine when I bought it), and blown headgasket(s) - regular 87 octane was fine. After complete longblock overhaul and Delta Cams - 93 octane. Noticeable power loss with regular gas. Just after getting it running, before I got the timing right I would get MAJOR knock (read: brick wall) at WOT aver 3500 rpms on 87 and 89. It never did "pinging" it was more like fuel cut, tach just stopped moving. After fixing the timing back to about 22*, the brick wall knock stopped, but it definitely felt sluggish compared to 93 octane. Interesting note from a dealer sales brochure for the 1987.5 models: all HP tests were done with 91 octane. That could be Japanese 91 though, which would be equivalent to US 87.

I've had mine to 105 on a backroad. It hits 90 easily, getting to 100 takes longer. That's with hills and opposing wind.

Welcome! Your RX recently became a little rarer.

On each side of the radiator on the frame rails are a pair of big bolts. They hold the bumper on. 4 total. I think they are 14mm heads. Don't worry about the screws on the underside of the bumper. All they do is hold the plastic cover on. I found that out after 5 hours of stripping, extractions, and broken drill bits. Take MilesFox's tip on using the RX fenders if you are putting the front air dam on.

The two lift points don't look that sturdy, but they are more than enough. You will need a pretty small hook to latch latch onto them. One is by the throttle cable mount on the bellhousing, the other is by the power steering pump. A nylon rope wrapped around the bottom works well too. Just make sure the routing won't crush or break anything (fuel rails, spark plug wires, etc) when it gets tension.

PIAA replacement bulbs.

i'm out for now, until i get a different car... but i can help with development...

Blizzaks are great. Very soft rubber for cold weather. Unstudded. They will wear very fast if it is warm (and you drive like I do). I'm interested in the Hakkapelitas (sp), they seem to have a good following around here...

I have a multi-page magazine review. I'd have to get it scanned though. I also have some brochures and ads.

For sure.

consider me teased

mine are off, if anyone's counting...