brus brother

From your title, I thought "Tow" was referencing towing the car not "Toe" 😀

drive shaft U joint?

My 2008 ran like crap after high humidity/cool conditions. Was ready to change out coil pack and instead dried out the interior contacts of the pack where the wires plug in and sprayed with WD40 and all was well. Have you tried spraying water around the wires when dark outside with car running to see if there are any sparkly light shows? In my case, I didn't have the light show but the rough running was related to the damp coil pack. Fingers crossed for something simple.

alternator?

I just packed the hole. No mesh. My repair was in the crotch of a y as the exhaust splits to 2 mufflers. Just checked out of curiosity and it is still holding strong. Couldn't hurt to create a "wrap" of the edges of the hole where some material is on the inside and some on the outside and then fill in the middle. Or tuck a tiny piece of copper mesh on the inside slathered with the sealant. Attach and use a piece of dental floss or thin string to pull the patch up against the inner wall and then slather on a coat on the exterior surface. The area I worked on wasn't conducive to cleaning so I just relied on the silicone to do its best.

Going on the real cheap for a nickel sized hole, there are furnace repair/sealing silicone caulks available at Home Depot good for 1000 degrees. Cost around $15 for 10 oz caulking tube. I have made some lasting repairs where welds at y junctions failed. Other areas have begun to leak but original repair is still solid 4 years later. https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-10-1-fl-oz-Red-Fire-Barrier-CP-25WB-Plus-Sealant-CP25WB-10/100166701 "3M™ Fire Barrier Sealant CP 25WB+ shall be a one component, ready-to-use, gun-grade, latex-based, intumescent firestop sealant capable of expanding a minimum of three times its dried volume when exposed to temperatures above 1000°F (538°C)." Beyond 1000 degrees, ya got other problems.

I'm only guessing 18 gauge. Take wire to HD or Lowes and compare size with wire stripper?

I think S Ted was saying that even after he momentarily clears the cel, cruise is still gerfarked.

Needs a new taillight?

WRX miscalculates passing distance.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZXZ3KXK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details The above link seems to permanently solve the issue for $30. Changes the function to default to OFF. Read the reviews as it appears to not include installation instructions. History: So many complained that SOA did a software upgrade to allow the user to disable this function. Now there is an option on the infotainment screen to disable the function BUT it will default to the ON position each restart. Have you updated the software on your vehicle? This can be done OTA (over the air). I read that the auto stop/start function works when you stomp on the brake pedal. Does it kick in for a soft press? Happily, this function was never available on my 2019 Outback lower end model.

I call dibs on any change in the ashtray 😉

local you pull yards around CT https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ANrceU4oXw4?feature=share

for those searching, I found the following link and write up that may solve my issue. will report back after I f' up along the way. https://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/53970-electric-seat-base-repair/

While driving today, the driver side front seat gave way on the inner side front corner. As best as I can guess a spot weld(?) may have given way. The seat is automatic and when I try to adjust the seat portion to tilt, it doesn't engage that side. Can the actual cushion be peeled back enough to be able to first locate and then make a repair or do I need to remove the entire seat from the car? Disconnect battery and connectors for heated seat, airbag(?) and James Bond ejector?

on my 05 OB the starter would get stuck on a dead spot. what I did was carry a length of 2x3" that I would thread down from the top and use to tap the starter. Worked every time.

Did Evap eventually become ready? Hopefully all stays good and it's not just coincidence. It's like the outcome of a rain dance. Sometimes you get lucky and rain is in the clouds, other times you can dance all you want and come up dry.

any chance it is the door open chime?

Are you saying the chime is on all of the time?? I will try and find my old post but I never had a problem stopping the chime on my 05 OB that warns if I hadn't buckled my seat belt. Found old post: Turn the key in the ignition to "on", the spot just before starting the engine. Buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 20 times within 30 seconds. Immediately take the key out of the ignition. Enjoy your chime-less Subaru Edit: you only have to do this once and the chime is off for good. Unless your battery dies. Also, you can toggle the chime on/off by following the same instructions. This worked for me, If that fails, I found this procedure with one variation: try this procedure... I dug it out of NASIOC Step 1. Sit in the driver's seat and close the door. Step 2. Insert the key in the ignition and turn to the "on" position (but do not start the engine). Step 3. Fasten and unfasten the seat belt 20 times within 30 seconds. Then, within 10 seconds, open and close the driver's door. Step 4. The chime will sound when you start the car, but it will not repeatedly sound if the seat belt is not fastened. keep us posted.

https://www.smogtips.com/smog-question/4333/Can-My-Car-Pass-a-Smog-Test-If-Monitors-Are-Not-Ready#:~:text=Gasoline Vehicles%3A&text=- 2000 and newer model year,cause a smog check failure. the above link isn't clearly dated but says 2000+ can pass smog with evap not ready!

patience benign neglect

Diagnosis is tricky and can be challenging. This therefore that until... oh wait! Never mind. IIRC the evap was the last to become ready on my 05 OB. So is the spacer still in place? If the evap stays shitz, wasn't there discussion earlier about checking out evap system components located somewhere aft? waiting for the end credits to roll before I leave the theater.

Heartless, are you sure it is a "stored code' or is it "pending" and waiting for the next check to trip the P0420 code? My reader actually called it "pending" but I was using the very expensive $19 reader 😉 As I recall, if you use the scan tool or disconnect the battery to erase the code, you will likely have to again wait for systems to become ready.

I think it is normal that light being on with key in on position but goes off with car started? If the 2.5 came from a MY 05+ that might explain why the spacer trick doesn't work? You aren't sure where the 2.5 came from right? I seem to remember someone stating a number less than $2500 worth of unsuccessful repairs that gets you past inspection but don't quote me. Just checked in CT as of 2021 it is $1069 by a certified mechanic. In Delaware (you?) see https://www.dmv.de.gov/forms/veh_serv_forms/pdfs/D19477_ve_inspection_pro.pdf looks like it's $710 see section 3 in above link.

I wouldn't jump in. Are you due for emissions testing? If you have some time, play around with trying to get the systems ready to pass inspxn. and if you get the hang of the handshake, drive it into the ground. That's what I did for 8 years after P0420 afflicted my 05 OB passing inspection every 2 years. That's a lot of $ on an older car with possible issue with your Frankenstein motor swap. And, it might not solve the problem. How sure is ole Scotty of his call and will he guarantee it and for how long? There is a way of flashing the ecu to eliminate the code but you didn't hear it from me. It's illegal and I don't know a guy... BTW is P0440 still gone?