brus brother

Well, if you are going to remove the deck to send away, then by all means, unscew the cover and remove the CD. It's pretty straightforward once you're in there. Replace the cover and hook up power and check to see that it runs OK. If not, give it up to the merry mailman. PS Was there a homemade label on the CD?

Use the "Search" function above and you should find the following writeup. Turn the ignition key to on but DO NOT start the car. Now buckle and unbuckle the drivers seatbelt about ten or fifteen times QUICKLY and then turn the ignition key to off. Now turn the key on and start the car as normal. If you were successful as I was on my 05 OB, the chime will chime 5 times when you first turn the key to on and then stop. It will also disable the seatbelt warning for the passenger seat.

I just Googled your problem and one post suggests disconnecting the negative terminal from your battery for 10 minutes, kinda like rebooting when all else fails. 10 minutes seems like a reasonable investment of time. Another post suggests reaching in with a paper clip and trying to coax the sucker out while pressing the eject button. Will likely trash the disc but it caused you enough problems already! Did this homemade CD have a label affixed to it? EDIT: Just saw that recent postings covered some of these issues.

Well OK then, we have to beat the information out of you.... you finally admit to no power to the unit, then how COULD the unit eject the CD or do anything else for that matter. As this unit is integral to the radio (AM/FM/CD), does the radio work but not CD? Sounds like Cougar is on the right track.

Not sure but it may be like the CD player on your computer (there is a tiny hole just large enough to stick a straightened paperclip into and this will open the deck. Not sure what your car CD player looks like, you might have to take the "faceplate" off the radio/CD and you should see a small hole. Look at your computer (you obviously are sitting next to it, look right or left from your chair). See the small hole? Turn off the computer and insert the paper clip and you will see what I mean. Hope this helps. PS Just curious, was this a prerecorded CD?

All except my 90 Loyale....?

A SOA mechanic I know suggested that he's replaced many a dead battery since they installed that switch mounted on the steering column.... apparently very GOOD for busyness.

"Not sure if this helps, but there is a two wire device with vacuum lines running to it- it was clicking about every 1.5 seconds- has a black round cap(?) that can be rotated- on left side of engine on top of intake manifold just to the right of the front left cylinder." WARNING WILL ROBINSON ALERT ALERT: Would the device with the vacuum lines and electrical wires be the EGR solenoid and could that be the culprit????????

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/ The above link (courtesy of Moderator Legacy777) is for a variety of FSM including electrical for 92. Might be of help. I wish these type documents could be gathered together and made available more obviously in Repair and Mods or under their own heading! Santa, are you still around?

Any chance of letting the rest of us 05 owners find out what other mods and options are available to us? Can you cut and paste or otherwise post your discovery? Is there really a way of turning the windshield wiper into a fishing rod?

Swi66, Check your other post requesting schematics. I posted links that were provided by Moderator Legacy777. Remember, the USMB search function is your friend. Good luck.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/6_Electrical_Section/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/6_Electrical_Section/6-3_Wiring_Diagram/ All credit goes to Legacy777 (Moderator) who scanned these last year. Use the Search Function on this board and save yourself some time. The above links will take you down the internet road to a FSM for 1999 Legacy. Probably not much different from your 98. The last link is for the Electrical System and if you download the pdf 567 it will give you your schematic. Good luck.

Please clarify. If you identify year and model, another member may get you a schematic. Did you say were getting power to the motor but there was no indication (noise) that the motor was operating when hooked to the harness? I think Cookie's suggestion would be applicable if you could hear the motor running but no action (mechanical linkage fault) from the wipers. My 2000 Legacy has a nut on the wiper arm that releases and prevents the motor from burning out if the arm is frozen or blocked in any way. The good news is that apparently you haven't burned the motor out. Sorry but I can't get you any further but a schematic would be the roadmap to your solution. You might want to post a separate request for an electrical schematic for your model and year. Good luck.

Call the dealership. Advise them of your loss of use of car, have them flatbed the car to the dealership. You might ask that they provide you a loaner and have the flatbed drop it off and pick it up with the exchange of your car. Why should you be inconvenienced in the least. If this happened away from home, I believe their warranty coverage might provide you compensation for lodging. Take the missus via taxi to a nice local lodge, celebrate Christmas and send SOA a bill. Might as well enjoy the eggnog as long as you're taking a taxi!

Yeah it works if done properly. Turn the ignition key to on but DON'T start the engine. Buckle and unbuckle the driver's belt I think 10 or 15 times quickly then turn the ignition key to OFF without starting the car. The next time you start the car, the chime will sound 5 or 6 times and disregard anyhting about the passenger seat. It worked for my 05 OBi Ltd 6 months ago and has never returned. Good riddance to the nagging chime "reminding" me of what I already know, thank you very much!

"just weld the hood shut" LOL

Opinions welcome on the merit of a sealed battery vs. the kind with the caps. Even the sealed batteries have a little hose, possibly to allow for gas expansion and release, so as to prevent KABOOM. This outlet would seemingly allow for a gradual loss of fluid by evaporation, albeit small. It seems that the type of battery where you can add distilled water and even recharge the acid if needed makes more sense or is this an attitude left over from my days on the Old Gen USMB, where everything was expected to last forever??

Hey Scooby 6...... , I recently noticed an increase whining in the 30-50 mph range that came from the trany and SOA attributed to the planetary gears. They said it was normal, all Subies have this same sound. Few days later, clicking noise from the trany forced them to replace tranny (2nd time) on my 00 Legacy GT with extended warranty. Long story short, new trany does in fact have a whine but less than the older one! I had changed the fluid on the older trany before the replacement but it didn't seem to make any difference with regards the whining sound. A retired SOA mechanic told me that there is a variance and tolerance on how loud this sound gets before SOA would be swayed into a warranty repair. In your out of warranty case, I'd wait for insanity to set in then have it repaired while you are medicated and institutionalized... they won't let you drive anyway!

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4843&highlight=seatbelt+chime This site seems to indicate that you are due for a recalibration. Not sure of method (See SOA under warranty) as a reset for the standard operation but I was able to reprogram the system to only chime 5 or 6 times when you first get in and start the car and then stop with the nagging chimes! Instructions below. http://legacygt.com/forums/search.php?searchid=67078

I follow this same routine.

Hey Colorado, I think it was you who directed me to transport brokers for a car/boat move. You could get it hauled on a "hot shot" trailer for a few hundred. PM me if you need a name as the guy I did business with will deal directly with you. He's in NC and probably wouldn't mind a trip to sunny Fla. by way of CO., Pobably the safest on the drivetrain and tires. I bet by now though the 93 is skipping its way south....

Like 99OBW said, go to an auto supply store like Autozone and they will pull the code for free with their scanner and tell you what's defective. Otherwise, you can change every part that anyone else had a problem with and still not solve your problem.

The most common wind noise is from the gussets on the doors. These are the triangular shaped pieces where the mirrors attach to the doors. Try folding the mirror in when it occurs and see if the noise goes away. Alternatively you can try taping over the interface where the rubber gaskets meet the glass at the gusset area. The fix has been posted here before and I'll try and find it if you need. Is your car auto or manual? Whiring, whining noise in my car was from the transmission which, unrelated the revs of the engine, would stay fairly consistent at various speeds. My transmission was replaed under warranty as it subsequently developed a ticking sound and now the ticking and the whiring have gone. The techs ascribed the whirring noise to the planetary gears.

I hope someone with knowledge will add to or dismiss my mutterings. It seems that a "no maintenance" battery would still have to have some vent hole so as to prevent explosion under unusual charging circumstances from creation of gasses in the process. If that is the case, eventually, there would be a loss of fluid and subsequent degeneration of the internal plates and their ability to hold a charge. I like the option of opening the top and adding distilled water and even more acid to rejuvenate the old style batteries. What then would be the limiting factor in age of batteries unless the plates completely degenerate ?

MT is starting to sound like a nightmare issue of Playboy.