brus brother

For the past few weeks, when first turning wheels (actually as they are returning to center), there is a sound from the front right (passenger) side that sounds like the wrong answer buzzer on Jeopardy. It seems from the right side of engine/tire area. It only happens once at new startup and lasts just a second. Legacy GT 2000 ABS? I'd try another answer but I'm sure I'll get the wrong answer buzzer so I'm throwing it out to you for a try.

I just checked the work order on the replacement of my transmission and the following was noted "Cut seal in low clutch assembly causing delay" . Go get 'em.

You did say that you were parked improperly (illegally?), so I assume you didn't call for the tow truck. Was it in a private lot and towed at the request of the lot or location owner or was this State sponsored terrorism? My experience with Small Claims in New York is tiring but fruitful. Once you get a small claims judgement, they have 30 days to pay you. You can then give the judgement to a Marshall to make demands and he can padlock the business if they don't comply. If you paid them by check, you can see where your check was deposited and freeze their bank account. Don't go bragging and threatening as to what you'll do. Surprise is the key element here. Incidentally, all court fees and Marshall fees are added to the judgement and you can get interest added if it goes on for any length of time. In NY I believe the interest rate is 9% and that's better than you get in the banks! If they have 3 unpaid judgements, there is a way of petitioning the courts and get triple damages assessed. Hell, you could end up the proud owner of a towing company... now that you own said towing company, don't forget to tow ALL AWD vehicles on a flatbed or else SEE ABOVE.

WARNING: Never use the aforementioned hood position while driving as it will severely and adversely affect aerodynamics and increase gas consumption.

I like to call it no more damn head bangin' and cussin' position.

Cruisin' another board I discovered that you can open the Subaru hood to a complete upright position! The hood prop can be removed from the front of the engine compartment and positioned into a hole in the front of the passenger side strut tower (covered with a plug on some models). Darn handy especially when working towards the rear of the engine.

60,000 miles was the drive train warranty. Did you just become aware of it? How long have you owned the car? If there is a history of a complaint, you might be able to get SOA to step up to the plate. Was this purchased from a dealer? Even if it was purchased from an individual, try to access their service record to see if they had ever complained to their dealer. If you can, try to get the service history by Vin# if you have to locate where the car came from. As far as the ultimate impact, try and get the Tech Service Bulletin regarding this issue and see what a transmission shop would charge for repair. SOA might be able to tell you what their repair cost would be. As I said in my case, they simply installed a remanufactured tranny straight from Subaru as they don't want their shops being responsible for breaking one down and repairing it on site.

Do the boots CV joints appear intact or is there a tear that could have allowed the grease to become contaminated or degaded to the point where the joint is trashed? Axle nut loose? Ball joints? Steering rack? These are the suggestions I've seen on the site in the past. The Search function IS your friend! Also check out "Similar Threads" at the bottom of this web page. For many issues, the guys and gals on this site have "Been there, done that AND bought the T-shirt".

You don't say what year it is but I have a 2000 Legacy GT and from day one there was a clunking especially noticeable at slow speed when turning over a slight bump like going into a driveway etc.. After many calls and complaints to SOA, who continued to describe the situation as "normal" (it had first appeared in MY1997 by some mechanic"s recollection), they came up with a fix under warranty that included changing out the power steering lines. I don't think it helped much but more a case that I had grown accustomed to the sound by then. Did you only suddenly become aware of the noise? If not, speak with the dealer or regional rep. from SOA until you are dead certain that you need your wallet lightened. I recall a post on the site about this issue where some had proposed replacing the bushing for the strut as a fix for the "clunking". Is your sound only on one side? If so why did the dealer recommend both struts? Use the Search function here and search under "clunking or clunk" especially on this New Generation forum.

This is a warranty issue and hope you are still covered. There was a recent post about head gasket complaints and one of the respondents pooh poohed HGs as a continuing problem instead "We seem to have more early '00-'02 Legacy's in for delayed engagement of the auto tranny's then headgaskets. (Due to an O-ring not holding pressure, it's been corrected)" You can read and contact by PM or ?email Dr. Outback the author of this quote found at the following link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23282&page=2&pp=10&highlight=head+gasket So, lucky you, you don't have head gasket problems but you do have the delayed engagement of AT. I had mine changed out under warranty and the mechanic pretty much ordered the replacement transmission by my description as he had obviously seen it before! Hope this helps.

"Still, there's nothing like popping the hood of some old Detroit iron where you have enough room to sit inside the engine bay with three buddies while you tinker on the engine..." Love the imagery. What does a locking extension look like? I've got a few bucks to squander. As you can see I waited for 68,000 miles to change the plugs and PCV valve and amazingly, the car no longer pings with 89 octane. It's a frickin' miracle and I'm off to Lourdes.

Great looking car. Hope to see you on the site with little or no problems for years to come.

I have a 2000 Legacy GT Wagon and a 2005 OB 2.5i Ltd. They are both automatic but I find the handling and cornering of the 2000GT better than the OB. The OB is a more luxurious car. I might have gone for the GT wagon this year were it not for the damn hood scoop. My desire for the "boy racer" look has passed. That said, I am still a big Sub fan and I feel there is good value in their product and I think the styling for the 05 MY Outback hit the mark. To me the styling has the flavor of a refined Lexus SUV just not as big or trucklike. Buy a Subaru or I'll bloody your nose!

Thanks. Access is a pain having to remove the air intakes on the passenger side and I found I had to lift the washer up and out to get at the drivers side. I tightened the plugs until I felt the crush washer and then a touch more(no torque wrench). I did use the anti-seize grease and that seemed to help them slide home. The damn socket kept coming off and staying on the plug so I duct taped the bugger to the extension. I bought the T wrench but that didn't fit with all the other piping and hoses so that one goes back to Autozone. I may look for an upgrade from the $4 plug socket as the duct tape thing seems compensatory for poor engineering.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2023&highlight=seatbelt+warning I don't endorse disabling safety functions. The above site gives instructions on how to disable the CONSTANT warning. The alarm will still ring 5 or so times when you first start the car but then it stops. Follow the directions. It worked for me the first time I tried it. The constant warning reminds me of what I've told my wife on a few occasions, "I heard you twice the first time".

Autozone says that if you have the connector? they can pull OBD II codes. Give them a call if there's one around. I'm sure they want to sell the repair parts.

Is there an AutoZone anywhere near you (or similar)? They will come out to your car and do a free code scan here in CT. and I've been told elsewhere as well.

Any tips on changing spark plugs on 2000 Legacy. It's only been 68000 miles and I figured... splurge. Anyway, looks like I need to buy a smaller size spark plug socket for the NGK plugs (not platinum @$2.09 at discountparts.com aka Liberty Subaru in NJ). They seem so far inset that it may be tricky not crossing threads as I don't get much feedback through a wrench and always relied on touch in the past. Any advice from those who have "been there, did it, bought the t-shirt"?

Hate to be the one to ponder the obvious but coincidences do happen. I once was doing some rewiring and somehow simultaneously turned the dashboard dimmer switch on the column down to zero. After some head scratching and fretting I simply readjusted the dimmer and voila Tessler was reborn. This was on a 2000 Legacy and I don't know where or if your's is located but just a thought. Common things happen commonly.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20595&page=1&pp=10&highlight=rear+washer The above link should take you to a related post, scroll down to the reponse from Ferret. He talks about a check valve in the rear pillar. I knew I'd find it. Glad you were able to come up with a solution but the fact that there is a Subaru solution should take you back to the dealer that sold you the $50 pump unnecessarily and you can dope slap him.

Bump... What is required to upgrade to the larger rotors and what is the long term benefit. I seem to be going through pads pretty quickly and the rotors need to be resurfaced now yet again even though the pads haven't worn out.

110,001 miles is when it all falls apart. Let me know. I too own a 2000. Good luck.

What damages cats (other than dogs)? Is there an average lifespan (not 9 lives) and any way of ensuring long life?

Quote: Originally Posted by 4RnrRick Come on guys........ do you know that almost ALL AC compressors say that. It stands for Suction and Discharge. ....and your point would be?

What damages cats (other than dogs)? Is there an average lifespan (not 9 lives) and any way of ensuring long life?