brus brother

and if you dont return it, its paid for. you can have the option to keep the tool, for what you put down for the deposit ...ever the sly Fox Miles!

I'm sure they make money enough on: 1) the various parts you need to replace that you broke while doing that other repair. 2) the guy who threw the tool over the fence in disgust (see item #1 above) thereby loosing his deposit as well as his temper. 3) they are a joint venture with the pharmacy next door and make it up on the sale of bandages etc. associated with the learning curve with any new tool. 4) sale of those smelly tree shaped things to hang from the mirror (always a temptation at the register).

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH06_63.html The above site will take you to the Chilton website page for headlights for Subs. The adjustment screws are clearly identified and the rest should be intuitive. When you are done, find the homepage for this site and add it to your favorites. Good luck.

I was in my local AutoZone today here in Connecticut and saw a sign indicating that you could borrow certain tools for free! A short listing of these tools include various AC clutch pullers and installers, clutch pilot bearing tool, exhaust pipe spreaders and cutters, oxygen sensor socket, a variety of gear pullers, torque wrench, brake caliper tool (for turning it in), 30-36mm sockets and ball joint press tools to name a few. There were approx. 60 tools in all but some specified for Ford, GM etc..

I was in my local AutoZone today here in Connecticut and saw a sign indicating that you could borrow certain tools for free! A short listing of these tools include various AC clutch pullers and installers, clutch pilot bearing tool, exhaust pipe spreaders and cutters, oxygen sensor socket, a variety of gear pullers, torque wrench, brake caliper tool (for turning it in), 30-36mm sockets and ball joint press tools to name a few. There were approx. 60 tools in all but some specified for Ford, GM etc..

The good thing about the foam technique is that after a series of these types of repairs, you can reregister the car as a boat and if it's anything like my Subarus here in the northeast, you start to notice better gas mileage as you replace that pesky heavy metal with lightweight fiberglass. If you live in the rust belt, I hate to discourage you but it's return is inevitable.

Who makes the unit for Subaru? I'm sure the "grease guys" don't assemble these things during their lunch breaks. Anyway, I have attached a site for some common problems (common problems happen commonly). The unit doesn't seem that old and I don't know if the play mechanism is gear or belt driven but if belt, you can easily change the belt as they stretch after a while. Have you tried another disc that you know works? Other common problems relate to a dirty lens and a touch of cleaning alcohol on a sponge tip has fixed a few units for me. The site below has some repair tips based on manufacturer and you can also Google it for other tips. Good luck. http://elmswood.guernsey.net/

A gold mine!!! I arrived at the cave of the Moose with barely a steering wheel in hand and by the time I left, Meester Moose had nearly outfitted me with a new car! As Saddam said recently, "many tanks".

Check your email. I'll be available in the early afternoon but remember I have a weak back and mind.

Before I came upon the mud sloggin' head bangers on this site and potential for a Subaru afterlife, I gave up an 84 GL specifically because it only had lap belts in the rear seat and I had a young child graduating from a car seat. Safety tests have shown that lap belts alone cause serious abdominal injuries in children potentially severing the spinal column upon impact. While it is true that most of my generation survived a childhood devoid of seatbelts, some didn't! So, for off roading without safety concerns for kids in the back seat, have fun in the primitive cars but when it comes to being back on the straight and narrow, best to go for the most safety you can afford. If anything happened as a result of jerry riggin' a child safety seat etc., the result could last a lifetime... NO KIDDING!

I too eliminated that pesky fuel damper on my 90 Loyale just last month due to rust and leakage. The car runs fine and obviously will get better gas mileage having lightened the car by about 2 ounces of metal:D

...just a flesh wound...

Please check Vin# JF2AN52B2LF415339 My email: SUB2000@Juno.com Thanks for your time.

HeHeHe... Lap dancing with a Moose. Great imagery, LorryB. Yep, the notion of a high school car is certainly one to consider during those "learning" years of turning any rectangular car into an oval (deer or no deer). Glad to hear the lad passed the crash test.

how should i bend my bumper? ... sounds like you already did that!

OK let's bump this post back up to the head of the line because the question remains, why does the brake light stay on for 2-3 minutes after you start the car. Sounds like something is amiss in Missoula. Any comments from the cheap seats??

The full line is indicated on the container. It's just a little below where the threads end. Take off the cover and hold a light (NOT a flame from a match etc) behind the container and you should be able to see it. Just fill 'er up to the line and away you go. Of course you should check to ensure that you aren't leaking brake fluid (yikes) and that the reduced level results from standard wear on the brake pads that draw more fluid into the lines for normal operations.

Just did it this past weekend. The face of the piston has two slots facing each other. You can use needle nose pliers positioned in these slots and just turn it clockwise while pushing in so as to get the piston in. Be careful to ensure that the boot is out of the way when you check to see if you have got enough clearance with the new pads, I banged the boot between the pads and the piston and gave it a small tear... doh. I just posted over the last week so if you use the search function, you'll revisit my mishaps. The following sites are great for techniques. http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML http://www.geocities.com/matsut_rpi00/brake_fix.html http://www.endwrench.com/pages/archive.html

So, if I tried to change the pads without disconnecting the brake cable (even though the parking brake was not engaged) would that have any net effect on turning the piston in to make room for the new pads? Would the parking brake lever keep pushing the piston out as I was trying to turn it in? Have you changed pads without disconnecting the parking brake cable?

Where is the "thread" on the piston for front brake calipers. Since you have to turn them in to make room for new pads, there must be a thread somewhere but (?)probably not on the side of the piston? Is there a screw mechanism that engages the parking brake or what? I can't visualize it and can't locate a website that gives a clear picture of the caliper broken down.

... windshield washer hose?? I'll bet the residual brake fluid makes a helluva cleaner on the car after it's reconnected . As always the advice is much appreciated and you should all feel safer driving out there knowing I have brakes again!

Is there a preferred sequence for bleeding brakes on a 90 Loyale? Do you stomp the pedal hard for each wheel till it hits the floor?

Changing front brake pads 90 Loyale, I turned forever and the piston didn't ever seem to allow enough room for the new pads (the old ones on one side were completely worn while there was half the meat left on the other side)and then I realized that the piston was no longer threaded in place but was wobbling around?? So I pressed in while turning and it got back on the threads and I was able to get the piston in. In the process, I pinched and tore the rubber boot around the caliper piston. Is this just a dust boot? I noticed a small leakof fluid through the tear when the piston was wobbling around and hope that some fluid was getting past the seal at that point and once the piston was repositioned, that would be the end of the leak. Is it necessary to replace the boot? The other consideration is that this was the same side with excessive wear on the pads and should I assume that the piston was hanging up (due to leaking seal?) and therefore should consider replacing the caliper?

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML Here's a technique site you may find useful in repairs of ALL categories. I am no pro but from my reading on the old gen of subaru website it appears that water and oil pump(reseal at least and check bolts for tightness), cam seals and o-rings, front engine seals are usually attacked at the same time as the timing belts. If you use the search function on this website, there are certainly many posts on just this question.

I would check my neighbor to see if he was siphoning gas while I slept! I get a respectable 20mpg out of my 90Loyale AT.