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Everything posted by brus brother
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Well is this a fine howdoyado! Just when I was leaning towards the nifty 2020, dread has now settled over me! Knowing how 'puters quickly become obsolete if they haven't yet bricked... My 05 is completely rust free. No body damage. 201K miles. However it needs: TB/HG (probably pull, resurface and seal) Shock top mounts, spongy shocks P0420 (permanent dash light show) for the past 100K. Already changed both AF sensors and front O2 sensors and aftermarket passenger side cat. CV joints a clackin' I'm getting too old for more than oil/trans fluid changes. Dealer offers trade ranged between $1500-2000 which seems fair. Didn't even test drive (Covid)
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So my 05 Outback with 200+K is nearing retirement. (not a bad thing since I retried last year myself and highly recommend it) Roaming around the Subaru lot I came across a 2018 with 25K miles so then commenced the salesman's dance: "well if you like the 2018 you'll be impressed with the 2020 MY for just a few thou more, you get the 3/36 warranty and a complimentary smile with purchase..." CVT is now unavoidable and the 2020s introduced the automatic stop/start function which needs to be manually disabled at each restart. The darn OBs keep getting bigger and bigger, while my aging eyesight might lead me to bumping into things more and more, and the "Infotainment" display grew along with the MYs. That fingerprint magnet has grown to the size of a small computer monitor and unless the car is parked, the controls are no longer touchy, feely as on my 05 and 08 and could prove a distraction while in motion (see aging eyes above). Since I intend on driving it till the wheels fall off, the electronic doo-dads feel like they are a long term weak link in the machine. Subscription services for features like wifi, forever tied to ATT, and other recurring software upgrading costs make these cars seem like a Microsoft deal where you are buying the hardware but lease the software to keep it running. I personally prefer open source Linux over MS or Apple for that very reason and rightfully fear that hacking into that baby to install Linux might brick the car completely. I guess this rant might be better placed in the "discussions" area than here in the "fixit" section so mods please move it if I am out of place. Any input or caveats appreciated. In the meantime, as an old foggie, let me just say... "Get off my lawn!"
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Hadn't even considered that aspect. As soon as I placed the clip on the spoiler, it popped the retaining grommet out of the body of the door. it is possible that the direction of the force exerted as I was installing the clip led to the dislodging of the spoiler but I still lack confidence in the arrangement. I would hate for the rig to let go as I motor on down the road, dragging the bikes and spoiler behind me... Confidence lacking competence can be disappointing. "Hold my beer. Watch this..."
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Need to transport 2 bikes about 60 miles. Could break them down and throw them in the back but need room for other moving boxes etc. I have an old Cycle Shuttle that worked on my 84 GL hatchback but it appears that on the 05 Outback, the spoiler trim piece that overrides the actual metal trunk door could be dislodged if I placed the clips on it. Is trunk mounted viable for these cars or is hitch or roof rack the only solution?
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oem wires? ngk plugs? The engine needs air to blend with gasoline so that it burns properly in the engine's cylinders. If the intake is blocked in some way, you might find the vehicle stalls at random as you drive. This issue can be caused by a bad mass airflow sensor, a leaking intake hose, bad O2 sensors, even a clogged engine air filter.
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You can always take it back to where they balanced the wheels and ask them to check the balance again. Other than that, the easiest and cheapest first step in "differential" diagnosis is to swap tires front to back. BTW that "differential" has nothing to do with the car's differential. ;-) See if that changes anything.
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200K miles andin addition to leaking VC gasket, a variety of issues from shock top mounts, cv joints, P0420, leaking HGs (radio works fine) are pushing me towards retiring the car. It is our second car but whenever I drive it I leave a puddle of oil. Subie tech suggested a complete HG and reseal but that starts to outspend the value of the car. Severe leaking from drivers VC gasket. Some HG leak on top of passenger side puddling in recesses (not from the PS pump). Just replacing the driver VC gasket might slow the leak (quoted $60 one side or $100 labor both sides) but question is would it be reasonable while in there to retorque or even overtighten the head bolts or am I just looking for trouble?
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So it appears on the 08 OB the fuel pump is integrated with the sending unit?? If that is the case, under the circumstances, is the pump is still operative(?) just a failing sensor? Dads hate to be responsible for daughter being stranded waiting for Darrell Darrell and Darrell Brothers Towing to rescue her.
