brus brother

... not me. Geezers stay home in Covid days. Past three weeks, replaced the pool filter and changed 300 lbs of sand, re-grouted the pool wall tile (day spent leaning over the edge), reset stones in front pathway, pressure washed pool deck and all walkways, cut down six large trees overhanging the pool, trenched some new drainage pipe, re-stacked stone wall... I have friends and do eat lunch, but what is this golf game you speak of? I'll change the VC gaskets and save the environment and drive that sucker till the wheels fall off.

Interesting to note that the trany fix in a bottle for delayed engagement seems to work out nicely. Posted here for many years. Also SOA offers their fix in a bottle for external HG leaks. Not saying your statement is incorrect but there do seem some snake oils that actually have some merit.

Alright then I'll verify before using magic goop in a bottle. I know the HGs are leaking (it is a Subaru after all) specifically on the passenger top side where that channel runs across, (not the sensors as I had hoped) and for sure the driver VC gasket so hey wouldn't be surprised if the oil pan gasket might be a contributor to the party. Just need to clean up my act or start renting the car out to seal driveways.

Car not really worth much at this point 05 OB 200K miles. P0420, needing HGs and TB. Wonky climate control. Body is in great shape and I barely drive it as our second car. Anyway, the driver side VC gasket is leaking and will be addressed but there is a good size drip from the rear engine seal that I am hoping I can use a bottle fix. Anyone have any experience with Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer? Am I just looking for more trouble? Just getting embarrassing leaving an oily mess when I park the car in friend's driveways.

Ido a name or as in I do Subaru? I was just watching an episode of Fauda on Netflix and noticed a Subaru.

Well actually the hard part is getting the damn bolt out that fits in the groove. They rust inside the knuckle and then the fun begins.

whoah, did you say pop the ball joint out and no big deal in the same sentence?? Not sure about the op in Italy but here in the northeast rust belt, that ball joint is usually rust welded in place.

nm

Does the sound change if you step on / ride the brake?

Until you are able to make repairs and assuming it is a leaking filler neck tube, try only filling the tank halfway. Actually that might also be diagnostic of a filler tube leak...

If you "filled" the gas tank and the leak started right afterwards, it does point to the filler tube. You can look in from the rear wheel well and note wetness on the outer surface after filling. On my 91 Loyale, I removed the "protective" or rather destructive cover getting rid of the trapped dirt and sealed the pinholes with some caulk designed for that purpose. Sold the car a few months later and it was still holding. Hope that this is your issue as the solution beats dropping the tank.

have you checked to see if it is the filler tube? there is a "protective" shield that traps dirt and then rusts out the filler tube. I also had one of those little in line discs leak (I think they are some sort of pressure regulator) You can reline the tank. Friend owns a couple of 1968 Subaru 360s. Remove tank and roll a bunch of pebbles inside to clear off obvious rust. I think he braised holes and then swirled the plastic inside. Let me know if it comes to that and I'll get more specifics.

any beeps or honks?

Did you say the prop is dangling from the hood?? Unless things have changed drastically, the hood prop is pivoted at the front left and swings up to hooks into the hood. When not in use, itm lays flat and there is a clip just behind the hood latch dead center that the prop slips into (front to back) for storage.

I bought a reman unit for my 05 and all is well. I will try and find the invoice and update post. Found it: Partsgeek.com for around $250 There are always $15 coupons floating around. Let me know if you need one. They are always bombing my mailbox.

On my 05, the green diagnostic connectors are on the passenger side tucked up under the dash. They should NOT be connected under normal operation. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/connectors-under-dash-unplugged.39287/ The seat belt chime is different than the open door chime. I smooshed my drivers side plunger switch for the open door chime by catching the seat belt buckle in the doorjamb while closing the door. PITA to replace. The seat belt chime will sound a number of times then pause then repeat. Is that your sound or does it just keep chiming without pause? There is a sequence to disable the seat belt chime

yeah I forgot what el_freddo mentioned! Good rememorying freddo.

defective alternator can give a light show. dinging airbag? you aren't referring to the open door or seatbelt chime? which can happen if the switch in the doorjamb is smooshed or defective switch in buckle. easy fix is to disable the chime. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/seatbelt-chime-error-chimes-all-the-time.183505/ what codes are you getting?

run your finger along the seam where the valve cover mates up to the engine. If you find fresh oil, the VC gasket is a likely culprit. mine leaks so bad now that I get a good size puddle after letting the car sit after running as the oil remaining within the cover drains out.

different color fluid but directly above the filter is the power steering pump which was leaking on my 05 OB You should see it collect in the recesses on top of engine. once that fluid is exposed to road dirt and such it can appear just as messy as in your picture. also look on top of the engine on passenger side in the recesses. I recently developed a HG leak on top towards the rear where an oil galley can leak through a failed HG but as Numbchux said, you would expect that oil to blow backwards.

Good tip!

oil filter

properly torqued plugs? without torque wrench tighten until you feel them bottom then 1/4 to 1/2 turn to crush washer.

What Lucky said.. Is the valve cover leaking/spark plug seals hard and leaking? Might be coincidence that 3 and 4 are opposing cylinders. LINK here and posted by Bagshaster he describes similar opposing cylinder codes (1 and 2) and his turned out to be a bad tensioner!

You need to bang around on the heat shields as they don't have to move much. The reason I am suspect is the sort of harmonic vibration that would happen under certain rpm/load. My 05 Outback exhaust is a bunch of stainless pool hose clamps holding it quiet.