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Everything posted by brus brother
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Like GD said. I will add that after you reconnect the battery, turn the key to the on position and wait for all the gauges to run and then start the car without stepping on the gas and let it idle. The computer will need to "relearn" your car and it may take a few minutes at idle for things to smooth out. GD's suggestion to buy an inexpensive scan tool is a good idea going forward. Not only can you use it to clear codes but even the most basic scan tool will allow you to "read" codes when the check engine light comes on. If you want peace of mind without following any of the above suggestions, take you car to Advance Auto or Autozone. Here on the east coast they will scan and read your codes free of charge. If it comes back as a "loose gas cap" code (P0457), then just keep driving and the light show will go away by itself.
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... not me. Geezers stay home in Covid days. Past three weeks, replaced the pool filter and changed 300 lbs of sand, re-grouted the pool wall tile (day spent leaning over the edge), reset stones in front pathway, pressure washed pool deck and all walkways, cut down six large trees overhanging the pool, trenched some new drainage pipe, re-stacked stone wall... I have friends and do eat lunch, but what is this golf game you speak of? I'll change the VC gaskets and save the environment and drive that sucker till the wheels fall off.
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Alright then I'll verify before using magic goop in a bottle. I know the HGs are leaking (it is a Subaru after all) specifically on the passenger top side where that channel runs across, (not the sensors as I had hoped) and for sure the driver VC gasket so hey wouldn't be surprised if the oil pan gasket might be a contributor to the party. Just need to clean up my act or start renting the car out to seal driveways.
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Car not really worth much at this point 05 OB 200K miles. P0420, needing HGs and TB. Wonky climate control. Body is in great shape and I barely drive it as our second car. Anyway, the driver side VC gasket is leaking and will be addressed but there is a good size drip from the rear engine seal that I am hoping I can use a bottle fix. Anyone have any experience with Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer? Am I just looking for more trouble? Just getting embarrassing leaving an oily mess when I park the car in friend's driveways.
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If you "filled" the gas tank and the leak started right afterwards, it does point to the filler tube. You can look in from the rear wheel well and note wetness on the outer surface after filling. On my 91 Loyale, I removed the "protective" or rather destructive cover getting rid of the trapped dirt and sealed the pinholes with some caulk designed for that purpose. Sold the car a few months later and it was still holding. Hope that this is your issue as the solution beats dropping the tank.
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have you checked to see if it is the filler tube? there is a "protective" shield that traps dirt and then rusts out the filler tube. I also had one of those little in line discs leak (I think they are some sort of pressure regulator) You can reline the tank. Friend owns a couple of 1968 Subaru 360s. Remove tank and roll a bunch of pebbles inside to clear off obvious rust. I think he braised holes and then swirled the plastic inside. Let me know if it comes to that and I'll get more specifics.
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Did you say the prop is dangling from the hood?? Unless things have changed drastically, the hood prop is pivoted at the front left and swings up to hooks into the hood. When not in use, itm lays flat and there is a clip just behind the hood latch dead center that the prop slips into (front to back) for storage.
