brus brother

Hey Paul Right click on your photo and select "search google for image". Obviously your pic shows up but all other references to similar images (text) are Japanese related. You might still be OK but there's no guarantee that Chinese can't print using Japanese text and you'd never catch them as easily as with your original "Genuine Rarts" image above.

to your question... not sure but it does look like a broken weld. Seems structural but as a temporary fix to quiet things down try high heat furnace caulk. It's about $9 a tube at Home Depot. LINK or one for $12 I used at Lowes LINK Clean it as best as you can and apply caulk, perhaps embedding fiberglass cloth into the repair?

I'm guessing I could figure out the o-rings, gaskets, and retaining clips but what are the two items circled? Guide pins??

No yards nearby and could end up with another failure in the near future. I'll check dealer for rebuild kit. style changed in 04. Steering is still solid on mine. Let me know if the Grease Gods are good to you this time around. What brand are you buying? Anyone have a link to FSM?

It's not the o-ring on the top of the pump. That was replaced two years ago. Can't quite see the leak. Reservoir was near empty and the top of the engine had fluid pooling in recesses behind the pump. If I don't repair/reseal, is there a decent aftermarket to consider? Genuine is pricey. Also, anyone have a link to FS manual?

hey Paul. I'm awake. need a ride? Jim

LINK Odd, that while I see a relay for the 99 Forester, the above link doesn't show it as a part for the 99 Outback. Was there a relay on the parts car? Trouble diagnosing when mixing parts from different model years. You might want to call a dealership and ask them by VIN if there is a relay for your car or if they can send you their parts schematic for the system.

"and it is "brake" "break" is to break something, or take a break.." Problem solved?

Well, I guess that was his problem all along?

is there resistance when you push the button? if it is the same style as the one pictured in the yt video seems like the spring may either be broken or getting stuck?

is there a button on the lever? is it stuck? did you try wiggling it (professional term)? tighten the button? LINK guy made home made button out of old knob LINK guy fabricates button for sale but you might get an idea of how these work

yup, I just learned to tap the climate control face when it occurs. my understanding, grounding issue where it makes contact (at least on my 05). too lazy to tear into it. as far as the airbag code, did you verify that the Mercedes dealer checked for airbag code?? here's a link for comparison LINK of "best of" scanners for ABS/SRS I don't own one of these. I think I got a tech to read the code for me on one of my trips to dealership when I had the problem. I use a cheap $20 OBDII scanner for my check engine light (always friggin P0420) to clear the code and get me passed inspection but you can get autozone to read codes for free. just waste of time driving there AND more importantly, they usually won't clear codes. Maybe one of the "specialists" on the forum will chime in for a recommendation.

I was curious and just trying to help you out here. A quick call to Autozone in Seaside, Calif. confirmed that they don't check airbag codes, just check engine light (CEL). That was my experience here on the east coast as well. I guess they don't want any liability of you lap dancing with your front grill if the airbags fail ;-) You might want to verify what Mercedes did for you but as for Autozone... seems not too much. If you do a lot of your own work, a ~$100 scanner with ABS/SRS ability will be of use. Dealerships, especially Mercedes can do an airbag scan but generally, not for free.

I once had an issue where someone in the rear seat stuck their foot under the driver's seat and dislodged the connector. Not sure why it would be so susceptible. Try re-seating the connectors? Odd that there are no codes? Who read the codes? There are special code ABS/SRS readers for airbag info, different than then standard OBDII readers.

if it is code 26 then and on this other video linked HERE another replaces the entire module $$$ but the comments below also reference refreshing ALL the solder joint even the LED. Chances are these boards flow through one solder station so all joints become suspect to the original manufacturer's faulty assembly. One comment also discusses a service to make the repair for $45 if you aren't comfortable with soldering.

My 05 had a problem with airbag light. Don't think it changed based on seat position. Mine was a faulty solder joint in the overhead console with the map light. I replaced the circuit board before learning about just re-soldering the connections. I will try and find a link to the discussion.

call any subaru dealer and give them your vin number. they will tell you the part number.

as above suggested got to autozone, advanced auto etc and they will read the codes for free. come back here with whatever the code is for suggestions on how to proceed. there may be more than one code. bring it on. I use something like THIS that saves me a drive to the parts stores. also handy for clearing codes and getting readiness set for passing emissions ;-)

The reason I went with this one is that the dies screw onto the driver and the others without this style sometimes got stuck in the newly flared end. Neither of the two you mention come with an allen wrench to tighten the pipe in place! Geesh, they could take a tip from IKEA! I once heard a comment that Gen Y considers a tool box as a collection of IKEA allen wrenches ;-)

Picked up a cheapo (~$25 with discount) bubble flaring tool from Advance Auto. Took a few tries to get the hang of the tool then unioned both master cylinder lines together to test and the flare worked great (no leaks). The unit is compact enough to work while the lines are on the car. While trying to be as exact as possible, the Nicopp line recommended by other members is extremely flexible and appears malleable as the bubble flare crushes nicely into the receiving end.

Unfortunately, the Chrysler Concorde uses "bubble" flares (not double). There is a very thorough youtube video and my reading is that while you can get away using a bubble flared brake line in a double flare seat, the opposite is not true as the double flare line will bottom out before being able to seal. There are various adapters available but in doing all four wheels and master cylinder, it is more cost effective to invest in a $170 professional flaring tool. I have a $25 bubble flaring tool ready for pickup from Advance Auto and will give it a try before going for the pro setup.

Need to make "bubble" flares for nicopp brake lines on a Chrysler Concorde 2000 that needs all lines replaced. I have read that since around 1995, all American cars have gone with metric style iso (bubble) flares and tube nuts/couplings. Slightly rushed but am wondering if the cheaper ones available locally are worth the effort or just go with a brand like Eastwood. Thoughts?

I know you said you tested it but was the starter oem or aftermarket rebuild? When it doesn't start try tapping the starter with a long piece of wood while turning the key. Check the alternator?

easiest fix yet!

at 0:14 seems to coincide with bump in road. Might be upper strut mount. There is a central rubber component that can wear and even tear loose from the metal surround.