brus brother

But the oil wasn't on the internal aspect of the spacer?/ If there was oil internally, that cat is in trouble! Fingers crossed. at least 0440 gremlin s gone ... for the moment. I recall reading somewhere that you can pass with 1 (one) system not ready but I don't have first hand knowledge. Don't be discouraged if the 0420 returns as you haven't really done anything that would have cured the P0420. You likely just backed out of the 0440. P0420 is a real bugger but you can reset using your fancy new code reader (?) and hope you clear and set systems ready then scurry over to pass emissions inspection. We get a warning post card about 2 months before inspections become due so I have time to try and cheat the system. Just sit tight now and don't be tempted to do a reset as you will go back to having all the systems needing to reset. With the cel on, the cruise control doesn't work and a few dash lights are flashing but if it bothers you, a piece of black electric tape will cover the light 😉 Keep us posted

yes get rid of the spacer, clear codes (did you buy that cheap code reader/eraser yet?) and see if the 0440 stays off then see if you can get the systems "ready". I can get my systems ready by following a procedure: gas tank 1/2 full drive 55 mph for 15 minutes without changing speed or braking. Slow down to 10 mph then accelerate again to 55. That usually gets the systems ready and then a quick drive right to the inspection station and I'm good for another 2 years. The 0420 is a code that has many possible causes and I refuse to throw my wallet at the great unknown. Sometimes the CEL goes off by itself but no rhyme or reason as far as I can see.

My 2005 OB with 2.5 was not compatible with the spacer trick. 2005 MY forward can't be spacer tricked. Since you don't know what MY your 2.5 engine originated from it couldn't hurt to retrace your steps. Everything I tried, putting a resistor in line etc. just kicked off more codes. If you can get rid of the 0440 then I'd say just get a code reader and trick the system long enough to pass inspections every 2 years. I did that for 8 years on my 05 before it wore out and was junked. I'm at the same point with my 08 now. Consider the new exhaust etc as a write off. You might even reinstall the original O2 sensor if you aren't confident of the Autozone aftermarket. None of the above steps cost more than your time and a few skinned knuckles.

get a cheap $20 code reader/eraser like THIS know before you go to DMV

You didn't have a gas cap?? building a Molotov cocktail container? OK well, it should reset itself but if you have a code reader, you can check to see if there are any "readiness" issues. Don't reset the codes for now. I wouldn't let Autozone etc or you to reset the code because then you might have to wait for the proper # and type of drive cycles for all the readiness monitors to reset.

Phyregold's proffile: Location Delaware Vehicles Outback 01 So my fortune teller's guess is his car may be a Studebaker (turbo)

My post is 4 years old. Not sure what your issues are. If you suspect maintenance is required, do that first. I got that ECU relearn procedure from a Google search.

ever been submerged? sounds like battery/cable/ground defect.

Been a while since i used those connectors BUT I may recall if while the test connectors are still connected will the car be prevented from starting?? Try to retrace your steps and get the connectors back to how you found them.

disconnect the exhaust before the cat(s) and do a very noisy test drive up hills and down.

Going uphill, gravity could allow bits of broken cat to fall backward and occlude the cat? Disconnect exhaust and take for a very loud test drive.

Met a friend at a local airfield in Bridgeport, CT as he was flying by and learned that they sell non ethanol fuel.

As one old fart to another, I am actually becoming accustomed to the assist as eyesight and reflexes dim. Now, get off my lawn!

did you put the engine in backwards? 😉

numbers are printed on coil

gone

Removing adhesive tape, road tar, stickers etc and other petroleum based residue can be accomplished with plain old vegetable oil.

blocked drain line from cowling? wet carpets front?

any new codes? disconnect battery and let the computer relearn?

What ^ they said above. I think if you open the top (fill) plug, you should be able to stick a finger in and feel the fluid level. BTW if you go off on a tangent and ever venture into the (why not) diff fluid drain/replace, make sure you can free the fill port BEFORE you drain from the bottom plug. From the hard knock school of "The greatest enemy of good enough is better".

Installation of Strong Arm brand complete. One of the struts received was apparently "open box" and already partially assembled and missing some mounting hardware. Doh!

Sounds like a "feature" related to eyesight settings. Google "subaru beeps under cruise control" LINK and you'll see a bunch of links and remedies. Better yet, ask SOA for their explanation. You should still be under warranty?

This DIY "wet" rust killer is made with finger nails, spit and shoelaces: actually PB Blaster, AT fluid, and Dawn soap

https://www.subarubatterysettlement.com/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnA_zN6IACc I already had SOA replace a rear gate sensor on our 2019 that was reported to create a constant drain, especially if the gate was left open. There's more and more "features" of readiness that can result in drain on battery aside from speculation that the batteries are undersized as the youtube video above suggests. I am really old school and recall as a kid that we would turn the TV on a few minutes before watching to give it a chance to warm up, Enuf said, now get off my lawn 😉

ordered strong arm brand through local Advance Auto. after their BF discount, turns out same price as through WalMart 3rd party seller every day. great return policies for both.