brus brother

call any subaru dealer and give them your vin number. they will tell you the part number.

as above suggested got to autozone, advanced auto etc and they will read the codes for free. come back here with whatever the code is for suggestions on how to proceed. there may be more than one code. bring it on. I use something like THIS that saves me a drive to the parts stores. also handy for clearing codes and getting readiness set for passing emissions ;-)

The reason I went with this one is that the dies screw onto the driver and the others without this style sometimes got stuck in the newly flared end. Neither of the two you mention come with an allen wrench to tighten the pipe in place! Geesh, they could take a tip from IKEA! I once heard a comment that Gen Y considers a tool box as a collection of IKEA allen wrenches ;-)

Picked up a cheapo (~$25 with discount) bubble flaring tool from Advance Auto. Took a few tries to get the hang of the tool then unioned both master cylinder lines together to test and the flare worked great (no leaks). The unit is compact enough to work while the lines are on the car. While trying to be as exact as possible, the Nicopp line recommended by other members is extremely flexible and appears malleable as the bubble flare crushes nicely into the receiving end.

Unfortunately, the Chrysler Concorde uses "bubble" flares (not double). There is a very thorough youtube video and my reading is that while you can get away using a bubble flared brake line in a double flare seat, the opposite is not true as the double flare line will bottom out before being able to seal. There are various adapters available but in doing all four wheels and master cylinder, it is more cost effective to invest in a $170 professional flaring tool. I have a $25 bubble flaring tool ready for pickup from Advance Auto and will give it a try before going for the pro setup.

Need to make "bubble" flares for nicopp brake lines on a Chrysler Concorde 2000 that needs all lines replaced. I have read that since around 1995, all American cars have gone with metric style iso (bubble) flares and tube nuts/couplings. Slightly rushed but am wondering if the cheaper ones available locally are worth the effort or just go with a brand like Eastwood. Thoughts?

I know you said you tested it but was the starter oem or aftermarket rebuild? When it doesn't start try tapping the starter with a long piece of wood while turning the key. Check the alternator?

easiest fix yet!

at 0:14 seems to coincide with bump in road. Might be upper strut mount. There is a central rubber component that can wear and even tear loose from the metal surround.

just curious then why issue seems more prevalent in aftermarket axles and why it is rumored that replacing both axles with same brand axles reduces incidence of vibration.

LINK or perhaps use copper scouring pad that won't rust away like steel wool?

as first read in the magazine DOH!

Actually I do mean when idling in gear, like stopped at a light, which is why I joked "demonic possession". Makes no sense, but there it is anyway! Throw the car in neutral and the vibration disappears. It has been suggested that transmission mount may be at fault (and I do have one that is torn) but I had no issue prior to replacement of axle.

yup, got one aftermarket in my 05 OB AT and I have the vibration in gear at idle! Friggin' demonic possession, but there it is! I have read that if you replace both sides you won't get the vibration.

is it genuine Subaru or chain store aftermarket with lifetime warranty?? never a good choice according to the experts on the site but in your case if it came with a lifetime warranty, return for replacement...

Once while at the dealer, I complained of rattling heat shields and before I could protest, watched as they drilled a sheet metal screw through the shield into the exhaust! I have since taken to using large stainless hose clamps that cross the junction from one section to the next.

If no external leaks are noted and no drop in reservoir fluid level, Rampage's suggestion that internal master cylinder seals are failing, allowing fluid to pass by and not build pressure seems like a likely culprit.

I tried the sparkplug non-foulers but starting in 05 they weren't effective.

easy to check if the plugs and plug wires are seated completely. I once saw a post where the plugs weren't torqued properly, relying only on the feel of the washer.

Hard to believe that something diluted in your gas tank and then passing through the engine burn chamber will have much cleaning oomph by the time it makes it to the cat. If your 05 Imp is like my 05 Outback, there are three cats and 5 sensors. That's a lot of hardware to replace. I live in CT requiring OBD-II emissions testing. I've always been curious what an old school tailpipe sniffer would actually disclose about emissions when P0420 shows up. As you, my understanding of "catalytic efficiency Bank 1 below threshold" can result from many issues. Also, what is that actual "below" threshold and are these cars tuned so tightly for federal regulations that the slightest "below" triggers the code without actually melting the polar ice caps? There doesn't appear to be any performance issues with my 05 Outback and I have had the code recurring for the past 100K miles starting first around 105K miles. Car had TB and plugs changed 5K before the code first arose. I first changed Bank 1 (passenger) front (pre-cat) O2 sensor. No change. Then Bank 1 rear sensor. No change. Then the passenger front converter. This then resulted in Bank 2 below threshold code. Every 2 years, for inspection, I cleared the code and allowed system readiness then hurried to the local testing station to buy another 2 years of "pass". As years have passed and the car aged, the cost effectiveness of deep diving into chasing the code has tipped to the negative. I recently experimented with installing a resistor spliced into the post cat signal wire (I think 1 mega ohm). I no longer get the P0420 but now I get a P2098 and am not sure if it is related to my Frankenstein electrical trickery. Google "P0420 resistor capacitor" if you just want to experiment with turning off the CEL light show and re-enable cruise control. There you'll find a YouTube video of another method using a capacitor and resistor, that I may yet try. Note that the sensor wires are stainless steel so soldering is not easy and in my case, I resorted to simply twisting the wires and covering with heat shrink tubing.

It saves you money!

thanks.

Where do you buy yours? I'm in the CT rust belt. Do you use the old connectors or the ones that come with the kits?

Friend's 2000 chrysler concorde brake lines blew out last week while exiting a hwy on a turn. They are all rusted. This guy is no stranger to "older" cars since he owns 5 1968 vintage Subaru 360s. Any suggestions for best brake line material to use that is easy to flare/install? I recall a debate on the site but can't find the post. Don't want to do that job (or end up brakeless) more than once.

been reusing mine also for MANY years on oil and trans. no problems here.