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Everything posted by brus brother
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have you tried vegetable oil? I know, seems too simple but it has worked for me many times removing adhesive residue. keep applying it and use gentle abrasion with a cloth to remove top layers and then continue deeper.
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So I guess it is best to start with finding the diagnostic code. The board issue I am referencing is in the overhead console. Two videos linked below discuss the same issue. Diagnosis Code 26 and then repair starts at 8:07 on this first video. and on this other video linked HERE another replaces the entire module $$$ but the comments below also reference refreshing ALL the solder joint even the LED. Chances are these boards flow through one solder station so all joints become suspect to the original manufacturer's faulty assembly. One comment also discusses a service to make the repair for $45 if you aren't comfortable with soldering.
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Are you in Somers NY or where in CT? I wouldn't trust Firestone to check my tire pressure. Aren't they the ones who "did" the oil change to begin with which raised your initial question? I know others more knowledgeable than myself have raised issues of plausible deniability but... What is the book value of the car right now?
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the car came with a "wrench" to allow you to close the roof if the power sin't working but I'm not sure that would help in your circumstance. http://www.subarumanuals.org/subaru-2533.html in an emergency (heading towards a hurricane) I might suggest that you retract it then gently manually coax it along as you try to close it with the motor.
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I've always envied people with acetylene torches who can heat and remove rusted fasteners with ease. Changing out rear sway bar bushings, with somewhat limited access to the top bolt that wouldn't budge with PB Blaster and arm power. Today I tried my Harbor Freight Butane Micro torch. Costs about $13 when on sale and waddayaknow... 2000 1760 degrees (?) of butane heat alternating with PB Blaster and it did the trick. May not be enough heat to conquer ball joint rust issues here in the northeast but It gives a real fine tip of concentrated heat to the flame and I will keep it in mind when working in close quarters near rubber bushings etc.
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It is a pain to get those wires through the rubber. Attach a piece of dental floss (I am a retired dentist ) to one broken end of the shortest piece and pull the broken wire back out of the gaiter. Make the splice connection and then reattach and use the floss to pull the spliced wire back through and connect to the other side.
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what gb said below is what I found on the passenger side of my 05 OB I was able to pull a piece of wire through and use crimp butt connectors to make the connections outside the zone of flexion, tucking them within the gate pillar or back in the ceiling. you may find other wires that are frayed and in need of attention
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I have 05 and 08 Outbacks 2.4 SOHC. I recall that OEM filters have a mechanism from preventing oil from draining back and causing a dry start and bypass pressure compatibility. Is there an aftermarket filter that is suitable or just get Subaru branded? Is there a sticky for mundane questions like this and other inquiries for TB kits/suspension parts, etc.?
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Just replaced the rear sway bar links on my 05 Outback and there is still a little play (rattle) in the sway bar bushings. Looking at the brackets that hold the bushings, are the nuts welded onto the frame or is it an independent nut and bolt? I am soaking everything in sight with PB Blaster but if there is a chance of snapping that bolt off inside a fixed nut, I may just turn up the radio and forget about the noise.