brus brother

Subaru Idle Relearn Procedure: 1) Turn off the lights, aircon, stereo or any system in the car that draws extra current on top of the engine. 2) Disconnect the battery for 30 mins. 3) Reconnect the battery. 4) Before you start the car for the first time, turn the key to the ON position but do NOT turn the engine over. Wait 10-15 seconds so the electronic throttle body or IACV has time to go to the factory programmed home position. 5) After waiting, start the car and let it idle without any load, lights, A/C etc. 6) Every 20 seconds or so the idle will be adjusted up and down as the ECU tries to adjust it towards a stoichiometric fuel / air mix. 7) Leave the engine running for a full 10 mins but DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR during this time or turn on anything that will cause extra electrical current draw. 8) Turn off the engine, and leave the key in the OFF position for at least 20 sec. 9) As per step (4) turn the key back to the ON position for 10-15 sec without actually starting the engine. 10) Start the engine and leave to idle for a further 5 minutes without touching the accelerator and without turning on other systems in the car. 11) Turn off the engine again and wait at least 20 sec before restarting. 12) Take the car for a test drive as the ECU should now be fully retrained.

It may be something as simple as tune-up but if that has been addressed, then consider the following. Have you recently disconnected the battery or "cleared" any codes? In doing so, the car's ecu then needs to relearn the car. Start the car by just turning the key and let it idle without touching the gas for about 10 minutes. That first turn of the key may take a few revolutions until it starts but DO NOT step on the gas If I don't follow this step, I end up with a car that tends to stall out, even after many miles of driving.

while someone turns the key, whack the starter with a length of 2x4 or pipe youtube link

tried that just now no change in engine performance no arcing

From cold start, car ran like crap. Pulled P0303 and P0304 fault codes. After about ten minutes, car smoothed out and ran normally. Don't want to diagnose by wallet but is the likely culprit a failing ignition coil? Any other possibilities that would fail both cylinders and then recover? Humidity has been off the charts here in New England and the car sat for a few days without being driven prior to episode.

If all tests ok with the battery/cabling, as Lucky T mentioned, possibly an issue with the starter. When you say the "start" position, you don't just mean on, but rather the cranking/starting position? While someone turns the key to the start position, use a long piece of wood to tap on the starter. It may be hung up on a "dead" spot. If this works, replace the starter (rebuilt Subaru only is the recommendation on the board)

Sure. Used some in wife's 08 and she is chilling now but some left in can.

is there a diagram on the inside of the fuse box cover?

does this look familiar?

Twas the relay $6 and all is cool again.

Lucky T, When I put the gauge on the system (Parts store gauge and can Arctic Freeze) it showed full. As I thought I was going to have to jump the relay to get the clutch to engage, and suck in the gas, as I just wiggled that big honkin relay in the fuse box, the clutch started spinning. The mystery of why there would be ice cold air then nothing seems to be explained by the failing relay?? Do relays fail like that where they work for a few minutes then cut out, as if heat expansion affecting performance.

ok may have figured out the mystery. If I wiggle the relay the clutch spins in and I get ice cold air. Possibly the relay is the problem? Is the symptom of a dying relay that they fail after a short period of time working? Can failure be intermittent like this where they fail after working for a few minutes and then start again after rest??

I am guessing that I am now reqally low as the clutch won't engage now. Problem is how to refill without ac running. Bypass the relay? OK never pulled a relay out before. I have identified the relay. Is it just a straight pull out or is there a retention clip that needs to be pushed back? Then, what terminals do I cross to bypass the relay?

Inflation!

Lucky T, I think I may have recharged it once. I just checked the gap for the ac clutch and it is spot on for spec. so no need to go rip that apart for now. I am now leaning back to low on gas. Will check and report back.

Not just a matter of low on freon? I was hoping...

yes

Hey moosens. Some respect for the elderly. Bought that 05 in the summer of 04 so it's 15 years old. Leaks plenty of oil... Need your driveway resealed, I'll drop the car off.

AC light on Clutch not spinning.

2005 Outback AT 190k miles. Started yesterday 90 degrees out. AC runs nice and cold for the first 3 minutes then blows warm air (same as outdoor air). Turned engine off for a few minutes, restart the car and same sequence, runs cold for 3 minutes then warm air.

I bought a cheap prop shaft from partsgeek for my 05 Outback. $250 (cheapest one they had). The center joint was shot and while some shade tree mechanics have pressed in new ones, not even local shops do it around here on this car. Car had a rumble in the seat and would actually hit the bottom of the car as well on quick acceleration. There may be a related bushing that was (is) worn, not replaced, but all other symptoms were gone. Check to see if your bushings are adequate. There is always a $15 off cpn if you decide to order from PG I can send it your way.

In the words of Pee Wee Herman... "I meant to do that"

Interesting suggestion. So If I were to cut the wire going back to the ecu and splice in a power source with the correct millivolts, it might do a trick? hmmm. splice in a 700 mv diode on the return line? Car runs great and gas mileage hasn't changed any through the years. Reason I dove in with both feet to replace the cat was that around 6 years ago, I did provide live data to CarDoc over on the outback site and he suggested bad cat. I will hunt around for the cable and software I used at the time and repeat.

Car cooled down. placed new O2 sensor post cat on passenger side and.. p0420 came right back. So to recap, new cat and O2 Denso downstream sensor. Precat A/F sensor is 80K old. No obvious exhaust leaks other than the steam coming out of my ears. I'd love to eliminate the cat reading from the ecu and would appreciate any off-line direction. Please PM me if you have know how for this 05 Outback AT 2.5 non turbo. While our state of CT is hot on emissions, the wheels can be falling off your car and still pass inspection.

duly ashamed