brus brother

sounds like a grounding issue. something backfeeding. take out both brake bulbs and see if it still happens. had you changed bulbs recently check fuses for corrosion?

steve. if you want a second set of eyes on the project, please post or send me a high res picture of both sides of the board. I can forward to a buddy for a quick look (he designs and builds pc boards)

Just got a text answer from a subie tech who said code should reset itself. Also check out https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/42574-2006-obw-airbag-light-my-fix-1.html post #80 they got SOA to pay for repair I'm only up to page 9 but thought I'd give you some reading while you wait for others to chime in. There are many excellent photo write ups. Seems that various points on the board are subject to poor solder connections. One poster with apparent electrical background does a fine analysis of the root cause. If you can return the scanner, do, and put the money towards the console if you end up taking it from the dealer. You were advised before the scanner purchase what the problem was by other members here. Anyways, nobody at this multi-page link speaks of erasing or resetting the code. Did you try gently re-flowing (All) the solder connections for the third time? Be careful as I once was so aggressive with soldering in my earlier days that I actually toasted the copper beneath the board! EDIT: Just finished page 12 and someone even solved it by re-flowing solder of one of the LEDs.

Search around. I recall reading that removing the positive and negative leads to the battery and then joining them together for a period of time will clear the codes. Then reconnect the positive cable to the positive terminal and then negative. I will hunt around and get back to you. Hopefully someone else will chime in and warn if this will blow up your car.

you are correct msmithmmx

steve. while those values may be correct. Unless you actually scratched the trace below and exposed the copper, you still can't be sure that you have gotten a good solder joint. I am no expert and always remind myself of the lament 'I cut that board three times and it is still too short" any interest in re-flowing those solder joints perhaps with a touch of fresh solder? from the video, the fellow struggled to get it right. as I said earlier, I bought a new unit before discovering the "fix" so I am just cheering you on from the cheap seats.

I just searched a few youtube videos and it appears that code should clear itself after you turn the ignition on/off/on so probably no specific other clearing procedure. Reason I asked is I saw one video but it was for wrx where they shorted pins but doesn't appear relevant here?? Have one last go at re-soldering?

you only tried twice... the guy on this video was successful on the third try! my dad used to say "it's already broken, how much more can you break it"? Give the soldering one more shot before you pick up the new one?

do you need to clear srs codes once repair is made?

Was with a very resourceful buddy last week and was dropping off my old wheel bearing for a scrappy run. His curiosity got the better of him and he tapped the bearing out of the hub (yup just with a hammer) and removed the inner plastic shield. The inner bearings grease was dried and caky. There didn't seem to be any damage to the race. Do you think it possible to tap a grease fitting into these units?? If they came with such fittings, is it possible they would last longer (like forever)?

I replied to this post a few years back: Last winter I experienced horrendous handling in my 05 OB and at first I thought the ghost had taken up residence in my car. Turns out the alignment was way off. The four corners of the car were fighting each other for supremacy. New tires/balance and alignment and the ghost was exorcised. Just sayin' if you hear something clip-clopping down the road, chances are it is a horse and not a zebra. Common things occur commonly.

While you are at it, carefully check all of your coolant hoses. I had a very small leak at radiator connection on wife's OB last winter that in a short period of time resulted in an overheat.

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/zip/d/2002-wrx-shell-with-rear-end/6691710011.html just saw this locally New Haven, CT worth a drive to anyone??

PB Blaster or some similar penetrant and let it sit. Move slightly then apply more PB Blaster. Repeat.

If you are handy with a soldering iron: Or if you want someone else to do the repair: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Legacy-Outback-map-light-overhead-console-REPAIR-for-air-bag-code-26-/142319374843

I had an issue with my airbag light on 05 OB. Been a while so I cant recall if it was on dash or overhead console by map lights. It may have been intermittent?? If you have the same config, apparently there was a bad solder joint in the overhead console. I discovered this bit of information after buying a replacement.

nope not sheared off. just mangled. I'll eventually post pictures.

As I said, I do not have an air gun. My question is whether in trying to remove the lug nut with an air gun and torque set very high that the technician, unaware that he had the gun set to forward, jammed the nut on and mangled the nut/bolt threads.

But since I had NO sense that the nut was cross threaded when I last replaced it BY HAND, isn't it more likely that the tech had his air gun set to a very high torque and unaware that he had it set to forward, laid into the nut while trying to remove it? OR would stripping/mangling the nut/post under those circumstances even be a possibility?

they were all ok as far as I know when I went there. This "occurrence" was noticed at the start of the procedure. "Hey, look what I found"

opinions wanted: So the history is that I took the car to Walmart for 4 new tires. Went cheapo since the car is at 190K miles and has a bunch of other issues that I might not want to deal with. They take the car in and within minutes report to me that the stud is stripped. Well, for nearly 40 years I have been doing my own brakes and since I don't have air tools have always just used anti seize and hand tools. i have been known to make mistakes (never admitted this to my wife) but I would have thought I would have felt if the threads were crossing... Question is whether the young mouth breather tech had the gun air pressure cranked up and didn't realize he had it on forward as he tried to remove the nut... Would this cause the damage?? The stud is chewed nearest the hub and not so much at the tip. The nut's threads are all kinds of gerfucked!

nice write-up on this type of bearing Notable that there are too few grease nipples on newer cars seems like in olden days even the radio had a grease nipple

thank you both.

Thread crossed and destroyed. Need to replace stud and lug nut. Need to remove hub?

I am local to Norwalk. I may need a knuckle. Where did you get the knuckle? I don't need a friend like yours I am capable of kicking myself when down.