brus brother

Anyone have brand recommendation for aftermarket rear gate lift support (pistons) for 08 OB. Many reference poor fitment, requiring metallurgical skills of a wizard to get them fit. Rock Auto gets trashed for general customer service so I am looking to buy local. Noticed a little weak the other day but today the gate is dead weight and one piston is oozing. Using a 2x4 for support for now.

Almost due. Trying to remember if made any difference but easy enough starting point. Any merit to draining 2 quarts oil then adding same amount tranny fluid run for 10 minutes then do a complete drain/filter change?

Recent discussion on oil weights got me thinking. Especially on colder days. Has 5W30. Ticking until car warmed up, after about 5 minutes then fine. 136K miles. Never had valves adjusted but if these aren't self-adjusting, is there a reason that they would quiet after warm?

Did you really mean -30 Celsius?? Having spent the longest month one weekend in Lake Placid, NY where the overnight temps hovered around -30 Fahrenheit, I feel your pain. In the morning, the alternator screeched like a banshee in heat and the turn of the key elicited a "no-no-no-no" from the engine. Can't imagine that the heavier weight oils wouldn't be congealed at your -30 C temps?

Clip clopping sound is most likely a horse and not a zebra. (geographically dependent)

agree with Heartless. even if not "broken", corrosion can seep back up along the cable. replace cable.

Step 1: Install car lift

It's all in the technique.

Inspection window?

Thanks all for the moral support (Moosens) and technical suggestions. Stopped by a local shop today who got it up on a lift and showed those bolts who was boss. No way I could have wrenched them on my back. BTW Moose, 'twas Ferry Blvd Sunoco. Major hiccup with the Raysbestos 980354FZN rotors I had ordered from Amazon. After installed, the wheels were barely able to turn... even the side where nothing was done to the bearing, simply swapping out the rotor. Tech asked if I was sure they were the correct rotors. He was able to determine they were rubbing on the parking brake assembly, disassembled and put them on the lathe twice to take down this small but interfering ridge. Later, when calling Amazon to pitch a b&%tch, I came across the following 2 star review: "The rotor itself is fine seems to be built well. I installed these on my 2008 Subaru outback 2.5l non turbo manual 5 speed transmission. Install was easy and just like every other rotor. When the tires was installed and torqued down the rotor was pressing against the heat shield and rear knuckle so hard the tire would not spin. I spent about 10 minutes on each rotor grinding off the lip for the drum brakes in order for it to fit when the wheel was installed. Either I got lucky with a factory defect or these just are not designed to fit a 2008 Subaru outback like they say. All in all I got them to work but I'll be ordering a better fitting product since these do not fit as described." Amazon fully refunded me for the rotors (now working), said keep them and even tossed in a small gift card for the aggravation. I would have been so screwed, this being our only car right now, had I run into this in my dimly lit work area whilst slithering around on the ground.

Not there quite yet. Funny that the top 2 reviews on that link reference a hub removal and caliper bracket rounded over bolt removal hell. For certain I am using 6 point impact sockets and they have been seated completely but those bolts are having a good laugh at my expense. My electric Harbor Freight impact wrench is powerful enough to remove lug nuts so I had high hopes but alas. Also, there are no small electric impact hammers to coax these bolts. IF I had a lift AND a compressor that would actually drive air tools, it might be doable to air hammer those suckers and their rusty innards into submission. I am afraid that working in close quarters on my back, trying to ball-peen hammer punch the head of those recessed bolts, I am just as likely to hammer my own head. I am a pit bull, doggedly persistent to a fault, but will likely now support a local shop instead of potchkyng it up to the point of needing to buy an entire trailing arm as this is our only car right now.

The rear wheel bearing / rotor replacement saga continues. First time replacement 120K miles and likely the caliper bracket bolts are virgins, here in rusty, crusty New England. On the 08 OB, SOA decided to bury the top bolt inside a port hole on the knuckle. The lower one is just barely more accessible. Liftless, working on the ground, me and Jack Stanz, I have tried multiple PB Blaster soaks, 1/2 ratchet and just today 1/2 impact gun with 3/8 non-impact extensions. The bolts just shrugged and I think I saw the extensions twisting. Is the god of fire the only remaining remedy? If so, that top bolt will be a challenge. Prayers welcome.

hmmm, thanks for the reminder. I'll do that first. Had the problem last year and just removed and reseated connectors and all was good but yesterday had Billy Buckaroo after sitting in a cold damp garage for a few days.

note to self... don't piss off the Moose 😉

When cold and humid conditions are just right, I get misfire cylinder #3. Moved ignition wires around and the fault stays with cylinder #3. If coil fails, can it be just 1 cylinder or is there usually a crossover/share? No sparkle light show if I spray water in the area. If replacing, is there a reliable alternative to SOA at ~$120? Ignition Coil 22433AA580

thanks got the following: zinc coated Raybestos 980354FZN - Rear Element3 Fusion Coated Disc Brake Rotor for 2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited "used like new" from Amazon warehouse for $20.75 each delivered free returns

Original showing wear at 165K Pretty rusty and crusty here in the salty northeast checked my local SOA dealer and they don't sell rotors?? anyway was just comparing prices any suggestions for modest priced options? i have autozone and advanced auto nearby. Anyone have decent experience with their house brand offerings?

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ courtesy of heartless

Factory Service Manuals https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ courtesy heartless

will add this to "sticky" thanks for the heads up

I tried to find this link earlier. Is there a sticky for this information?

OK you, here is what I found watching 1 A Auto video: Lug nuts 89 ft lbs wheel bearing bolts 47.9 ft lbs axle nuts 177 ft lbs brake caliper bracket 47.9 ft lbs brake caliper 19 ft lbs

2008 Outback Ltd Anyone have a service manual that gives torque specs for lug nuts, axle nut, rear brake caliper bolts and rear brake caliper bracket bolts, wheel hub/bearing bolts? Always used my wrist to determine "tight as can be" but borrowed an Autozone torque wrench and wanted to compare and calibrate my wrist.

Hey Paul. Thanks for the offer. I measured the dip stick and was able to shove in an additional 10-12". While I didn't know nuthin' 'bout no baffle, initially It wasn't drawing oil so I backed out the line a little and then she started to flow. I assumed it had coiled atop the oil pan as I didn't see anything protruding out the tail pipe. It drained the first ~3 quarts and then said good enough, you take it from here, buddy or as they say in TV land, Better Call Paul 😉 I am guessing that if you can plumb the depths straight down to an oil field, then you are good but if you are poking around in the dark, well, then good luck or as an old timer patiently but doubting said to me, "let me know how that works out!"

el_ that is a question I can't answer. I am baffled. 😉 I am just threading the extraction 3/8" hose down the dip stick tube and wasn't aware that there was any working in the dark necessary. any suggestions or even a diagram of what I am aiming for is appreciated. any chance of f'ing up the "baffle?!"