brus brother

As 1LT said above the contacts and plunger are cheap enough. Bunch of youtube videos. Here's one on a 97.

Make sure your battery connections are solid. if you are sure that the battery is good and there is a good connection to the starter, try tapping the starter as someone turns the key. Don't need to stick your hands down there, just bet a long piece of wood and tap it with a hammer from above. Starter may be on the way out and it gets stuck on a dead spot? I traveled with a length of wood and hammer for a few weeks before replacing my 05 starter. I think you might be able to rebuild the starter solenoid on yours. Mine was a one piece unit that had to be replaced.

Well, GD does this for a living and you do it out of necessity or intellectual curiosity (I do understand the challenge). So, I am sure that GD would not want you hanging around the shop as he is trying to earn a living wage to feed his family. Can you imagine what a customer would say if you tried to bill them for the hours you have invested in this project? So, you are welcome to all of the free professional (GD) advice and others like myself with limited experience here on the site. Only here to help.

the kits (Gates) have become unpredictable. Care to share the names/sites where you sourced your parts?

need to climb in the back, pop off the retaining pins that hold the interior and then peek in. On my 05 there is a white lever on the driver's side of the panel but don't know about the 99. You are in for some contortions but there are a bunch of youtube videos that should help you visualize. just type "stuck rear hatch subaru" in the search bar on youtube, maybe someone else on board with that vintage can fill in some details.

was this recorded as a complaint at any of your visits? subaru might do the right thing if you memorialized your complaint in writing. check your service records.

+ on finding a good independent Subaru mechanic. Perhaps starting another thread and asking for one in your area will get you a lead. I might not even rely on Midas' report of a leaking "seal". I recall that the interval for 05 is 105K miles OR 8 years Time wise you seem to be way over. Age can be a byitch! + on getting the idlers, gears and tensioners done An experienced subaru mechanic could evaluate the idlers etc. for wear and need of replacement but as I mentioned, time wise, you seem to be over the mark. ALSO, shortly after my 05 timing belt replacement at 105, the car developed an external headgasket leak. Started as weeping around the gaskets but is now crying a river! I just keep an eye on the oil level and hopefully will make it to the next interval. Currently at 180K miles. So if your's has begun weeping and you plan on owning for a while, have them look at the HGs and decide. A few more dollars invested now while they have the engine apart will save the headache later on.

you need to get the codes read most auto supply chains do it free then decide what parts you might need did you try disconnecting the battery overnight and see if the light show resumes?

not sure of your wiring/diagram but points of high stress like the booted area where the wires run from the door to the body are frequent areas of breakage

try spraying some wd40 in and around the socket and let it sit for a while grab it with one of those rubber pads used to open jars in the kitchen since it may now be slippery and wiggle it back and forth a few times

I live in an area where they oil the roads and spread gravel to resurface the asphalt. Not sure if it works but twice i had a piece of gravel caught between the shield and rotor and it squealed like a banshee.

check for corrosion/loose wire at same connectors

Try disconnecting the cat (it will be real loud) but then see if acceleration uphill is improved. If so, the cat may be clogged and the pieces block the flow and even more so on an incline.

Dadgummit! Today, unable to unlock rear hatch. no actuator sound. so I climbed in and there is an access panel dead center right at the bottom of the interior panel that pops right out. Little white lever on driver's side operates the lock. Pulled the boot on the passenger side and sure enough one of my previous repaired joints (solder and shrink) failed. Failed at the splice of the new wire added! I am asking myself for a full refund. Shoddy workmanship!

peanut butter and snap trap is the way to go. Use the smallest amount of pb so they can't lick it off and scurry away.

agree with @Fairtax. I have the same issue on my 05 OB. Try switching mode controls and you will hear that the noise will stop/change as you switch between modes. Mine is intermittent.

check out the following link: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/46628-open-close-hatch-indicator-issue.html pretty good description of parts and diagnostic sequence

The broken wires in the 05 and other OBs appear to be a common problem. Before you peel back the headliner, slide up the rubber boots on either side of the hatch and separate the bundled wires. My broken wire(s) were pretty obvious. BTW in my case the breaks were within the boot on the passenger side (of course I checked the drivers side first). Since there isn't much spare wire, I ended up splicing in/heat shrinking a piece of wire.

There are 2 different issues. First, whenever there is a CEL, the cruise control light will also blink and cruise will become inactivated. Clearing the code will turn off the CEL and cruise will perform as normal until or if it throws another code. I have gotten use to my blinking CEL due to persistent P0420 Your second issue is a puzzle to me. As others have asked, is there an aftermarket alarm system, remote starter or radio cut and splice. Remove brake light bulbs and see if symptoms persist. Is there any corrosion in the bulb sockets?

after clearing code, start and let car idle for 10 minutes without touching anything. now take it for a drive for about 10 minutes on the highway, slow down and then drive on highway for another 5-10 minutes.. that works for me and all systems are set.

did you have to remove the interior panel to lube the assembly or can the handle be lubricated from the exterior at the hinge points? Also for the op, there may be a broken wire within the rubber channels at the upper corners of the hatch. i will dig out one of my previous posts on my 05 with pics. Does the door lock via the switch? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163213-broken-wire-to-rear-hatch/

Check the toggle switch on top of the steering column. Easily switched on when monkeying around. Happens to many of us ONCE hence it is called the Virgin Switch. LINK

don't know why the above video posting didn't work but search youtube for : "2007 Subaru Outback Suspension Noise Repair -EricTheCarGuy"

watch the above video for great tips

well if it sounds like a duck, and walks like a duck... why not pull the wheel and check to make sure that the brake caliper or pad isn't getting locked up. Lubricate all points and make sure the pads float nicely. I had a set of aftermarket pads where the "ears" were so heavily coated with paint that they got hung up. also check to make sure the dust shield hasn't been bent. Does it change the symptom if you try braking under the turning/accelerating condition?