brus brother

not sure of your wiring/diagram but points of high stress like the booted area where the wires run from the door to the body are frequent areas of breakage

try spraying some wd40 in and around the socket and let it sit for a while grab it with one of those rubber pads used to open jars in the kitchen since it may now be slippery and wiggle it back and forth a few times

I live in an area where they oil the roads and spread gravel to resurface the asphalt. Not sure if it works but twice i had a piece of gravel caught between the shield and rotor and it squealed like a banshee.

check for corrosion/loose wire at same connectors

Try disconnecting the cat (it will be real loud) but then see if acceleration uphill is improved. If so, the cat may be clogged and the pieces block the flow and even more so on an incline.

Dadgummit! Today, unable to unlock rear hatch. no actuator sound. so I climbed in and there is an access panel dead center right at the bottom of the interior panel that pops right out. Little white lever on driver's side operates the lock. Pulled the boot on the passenger side and sure enough one of my previous repaired joints (solder and shrink) failed. Failed at the splice of the new wire added! I am asking myself for a full refund. Shoddy workmanship!

peanut butter and snap trap is the way to go. Use the smallest amount of pb so they can't lick it off and scurry away.

agree with @Fairtax. I have the same issue on my 05 OB. Try switching mode controls and you will hear that the noise will stop/change as you switch between modes. Mine is intermittent.

check out the following link: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/46628-open-close-hatch-indicator-issue.html pretty good description of parts and diagnostic sequence

The broken wires in the 05 and other OBs appear to be a common problem. Before you peel back the headliner, slide up the rubber boots on either side of the hatch and separate the bundled wires. My broken wire(s) were pretty obvious. BTW in my case the breaks were within the boot on the passenger side (of course I checked the drivers side first). Since there isn't much spare wire, I ended up splicing in/heat shrinking a piece of wire.

There are 2 different issues. First, whenever there is a CEL, the cruise control light will also blink and cruise will become inactivated. Clearing the code will turn off the CEL and cruise will perform as normal until or if it throws another code. I have gotten use to my blinking CEL due to persistent P0420 Your second issue is a puzzle to me. As others have asked, is there an aftermarket alarm system, remote starter or radio cut and splice. Remove brake light bulbs and see if symptoms persist. Is there any corrosion in the bulb sockets?

after clearing code, start and let car idle for 10 minutes without touching anything. now take it for a drive for about 10 minutes on the highway, slow down and then drive on highway for another 5-10 minutes.. that works for me and all systems are set.

did you have to remove the interior panel to lube the assembly or can the handle be lubricated from the exterior at the hinge points? Also for the op, there may be a broken wire within the rubber channels at the upper corners of the hatch. i will dig out one of my previous posts on my 05 with pics. Does the door lock via the switch? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163213-broken-wire-to-rear-hatch/

Check the toggle switch on top of the steering column. Easily switched on when monkeying around. Happens to many of us ONCE hence it is called the Virgin Switch. LINK

don't know why the above video posting didn't work but search youtube for : "2007 Subaru Outback Suspension Noise Repair -EricTheCarGuy"

watch the above video for great tips

well if it sounds like a duck, and walks like a duck... why not pull the wheel and check to make sure that the brake caliper or pad isn't getting locked up. Lubricate all points and make sure the pads float nicely. I had a set of aftermarket pads where the "ears" were so heavily coated with paint that they got hung up. also check to make sure the dust shield hasn't been bent. Does it change the symptom if you try braking under the turning/accelerating condition?

Had a lower radiator hose leak that seeped and then cooked off on the engine without notice until overheated (twice). Dealer even did a coolant pressure test without discovery. Only after a prophylactic HG replacement at 105 mi. timing belt change did it rear its ugly head. Not sending the heads out, when I started to lose coolant fast after the HG change, i started kicking myself thinking either a cracked head or warp. Found that the hose was no longer pliable and BOTH the upper and lower radiator hoses were weeping/evaporating. Fortunately, I had used the new blue coolant which leaves a much more noticeable residue. Four new clamps and no more loss of coolant. phew!

use KYB on mine

+1 top mounts do fail Just replaced rear one on my 2008 OB with 100K miles. Started off as a rubbery squeak and progressed to a rattle. Now silence is golden.

+1 Rooster I would contact the Attorney Generals Office in your state. They will steer you in the right direction. Advise the dealer of your inclination if ANY resistance. Transmission issue covered/not covered... what does the contract say? They likely used aftermarket cat converter (ask for any of their receipts) would rust out in a year or two here in the northeast rust belt. Maybe longer in misty Washington.

Just happened to view the above video where ericthecarguy was replacing the top mount on rear strut assembly. He gives some tips/reasons for using air/impact tools (as recommended above) and also using zip ties (might consider hose clamps) to stabilize the setup and prevent fly-away. Please let me know how this worked out as I am about to try myself with autozone loaner spring compressor.

Good to know. I didn't think it was legal to resell cat converters?? maybe due to high incidence of theft for quick cash as I recall. Friggin' opiod epidemic.

Common cause of P0420 is an exhaust leak but mine had none. Spray the cold sensor with some PB Blaster. When trying to remove the sensor, do it after the engine/exhaust has warmed up. Autozone will lend the O2 sensor removal wrench. If you can extend the length of the handle with a piece of pipe, the longer the wrench will give you more leverage.

A number of the tricks like the spacer don't work on 2005+ models. How many miles do you have on the car? There is a separate warranty on emission items. I can't remember the time/mileage limits. What is the maintenance history on the car? My 2005 has had the code for over 70K miles. When you get a CEL, numerous lights will show on the dash and systems like cruise control become deactivated. In my case, after changing the front sensor and working through the symptoms with cardoc on the subaru outback forum, I just bought a $20 code reader and clear the code every two years to pass inspection. The car runs a little wonky after clearing the code as the computer relearns. The light occasionally goes out on its own which seems to indicate that the car is just over the "threshold." Car performance and gas mileage are unaffected.